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Old 06-04-2017, 07:40 PM   #21
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Today we removed the rotted and bug infested utility closet panels.
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:42 PM   #22
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Then I took on the crappy job of removing the waste tank, y valve and macerate to access the diesel fuel underneath the bilge boards between the stringers.
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
Proud Mary,
What coating did you use on the rudder and prop? 20" prop?


Speaking of prop, I needed to buy a new shaft. So I had the prop shop clean up the prop. It's a 20x16.5". I thought the book said 20x18. Must have been reworked over the years. Maybe that's why the old girls a tad slow. But easier on the engine is OK too.
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Old 06-04-2017, 09:02 PM   #24
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We've decided to use Shields Neoprene Sheet Rubber. It appears to be the most economical solution.
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Old 06-04-2017, 09:23 PM   #25
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Cappy,
The question was directed at Proud Mary but I see you've got a Prairie 29 too so your response is very relevant. The Prairie 29 in some ways is very similar to my Willard. I have 37-40hp, 2.57-1 red and an 18" prop. The Prairie needs more power so I thought it would require a bit bigger prop.

It looks like PM has the same make and model prop as mine. I used a cold galvanize coating the same color as his prop and rudder. But the last time I launched I just used ArmorAll like I'd used in Alaska. Trying to get a good idea how the two coatings compare re marine growth. The ArmorAll must have worked fairly well as we just made an eight day trip on the boat and if the performance was down it seemed very little. The hauling is something I almost must do but $300 for Prop Speed is not.
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Old 06-11-2017, 10:50 PM   #26
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One other suggestion is to coat your fuel tank before installing it.

I coated my Prairie 36 fuel tank with 2 coats of coal tar epoxy before installing it. I noticed my port/aft fuel tank had been coated, but the other 3 tanks, included the one being replaced due to a leak were bare aluminum. So I asked the tank fabricator what he would recommend as a coating and his response was coal tar epoxy.

I am fairly confident that the port/aft fuel tank was replaced by the PO. I am also 99% sure that that tank was also coated with coal tar epoxy.
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:06 PM   #27
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The 90 to 100 degree temps have slowed my progress but I was able to dry fit two new plywood panels for the rear of the engine compartment.Click image for larger version

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Old 07-15-2017, 07:08 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proud Mary View Post
The 90 to 100 degree temps have slowed my progress but I was able to dry fit two new plywood panels for the rear of the engine compartment.Attachment 66777Attachment 66778


They are about an inch too tall as I forgot to adjust for the 3/4" decking and 3/8" cabin sole.
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Old 07-22-2017, 10:16 AM   #29
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Since it is too hot to work in the boat I decided to sanitize the main water tank. The inspection covers came off to reveal what I assume is bacteria and dirt.Click image for larger version

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Now I'm adding three cups of bleach to the 90 gallon tank to let it soak.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:53 PM   #30
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Applying coal tar epoxy to the two new aluminum fuel tanks.
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Old 08-19-2017, 09:29 PM   #31
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Cut and dry fitted the new floor joists.
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Old 08-19-2017, 10:14 PM   #32
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Looking good.
Isn't that coal tar epoxy fun stuff. I could barely use the roller it was so thick. It brought back memories of my mom putting frosting on a cake.
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:52 AM   #33
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Yeah the coal tar epoxy was thick but worth the preparation. We took the cans to Home Depot and had them shaken first, then we used a drill mixer for several minutes before mixing the epoxy and hardener in small batches.
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:52 PM   #34
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Just found this thread, I looked at your boat just before you did. Great little boat.
Passed on it due to the tank problem and the work needed to bring it back in shape and the time it would take to get it down to Fort Myers FL.
I found my MT in FL., only a two day trip. Will be following your refit.
Good luck and happy boating.
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Old 09-06-2017, 07:27 PM   #35
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A kindly fellow at the marina offered to sell his swim platform as he is parting out his boat.
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After pressure washing and a hefty application of Odies Oil it's looking new again.
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Now we have to prep the transom for paint before we install new stainless steel brackets and the platform.
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Tomorrow we'll see how well we can apply the primer with a roller and brush tipping.
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:30 AM   #36
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That looks awesome. Very nice work. Looking forward to seeing it installed.
Did you not have a swim platform on the boat prior to this one?
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Old 09-07-2017, 02:10 PM   #37
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Yes, there was an existing swim platform but it was unsafe. So we knew we had to replace it.
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Old 09-11-2017, 01:06 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proud Mary View Post
Yes, there was an existing swim platform but it was unsafe. So we knew we had to replace it.
I have a similar situation. I have purchased a fiberglass swim platform on Craig's List that I may use to replace my current teak wood swim platform.
So I'll be watching your progress with some vested interest.
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Old 09-22-2017, 07:20 PM   #39
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I measured twice and thrice then carefully cut a 3 1/2" hole to add a city water connection in the transom. It had to be lower than the cockpit deck but higher than the planned swim platform location. What do you think?Click image for larger version

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Old 09-22-2017, 07:29 PM   #40
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My better half has taken on the task to sand, mix and paint the boat. She's starting with the transom so that I can mount the swim platform. We have a learning curve on paint prep and application.
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