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Old 08-27-2016, 09:44 PM   #41
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I have a different style windlass. Mine is a vertical type where the rode goes horizontally around the gypsy and then makes a turn down into the chain/rope locker. The same things you folks have mentioned apply, I just have more of a pita installation for rope running down the hole than on most horizontal style windlass installations. I'm wondering if the brait rope would help with this. If I had mostly chain, this wouldn't be a problem but I'm not crazy about that much weight in the nose of my boat.

Kevin
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:18 PM   #42
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The Brait is very soft and flexible. It lays flat like chain, just not AS flat. I think it'd be a good candidate for a vertical windlass as long as you have a combo gypsy.
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Old 08-29-2016, 12:15 PM   #43
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My main reason for the new windlass was the same as both of yours. I just couldn't see myself feeding the rode up or down the hawse pipe off to the right every time I wanted to anchor.
The old (larger) windlass would not properly fit on the bow sprit where the new one is now mounted. The windlass needs to be there to get a straight drop into the chain locker.
I did think about keeping the old windlass where it was and cutting a hole there. But then I would have had to have an "S" type hawse pipe fabricated to guide the chain down and forward into the locker. Also thought about moving the chain locker bulkhead aft, but both ideas had other potential problems.
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Old 08-30-2016, 11:45 PM   #44
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FlyWright - I've been re-thinking my idea of using an all chain rode since your post. Have you ever had any issues with your Lewmar windlass and the Brait to chain splice or the chain link to add the additional 90 feet of chain?
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Old 08-31-2016, 12:06 PM   #45
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I redid the rope-to-chain splice about a year ago. For me with frequent anchoring, it lasted about 6 years. The connecting link has performed flawlessly for 5 years or more...no issues at all, but it gets checked regularly when passing the 90 ft mark on my rode. If I was to do it again, I'd go with the 120 ft of chain from the get-go and eliminate the need for the connecting link...or I'd go with 200 ft of chain with another 200 of Brait. In essence, except for the very deepest anchorages, it'd be like having all chain rode.

Since I've respliced, occasionally, the splice will skip a little as it transitions through the gypsy...especially if there is a little load on it. Once I slacken the rode it usually works through just fine.
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Old 08-31-2016, 10:59 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
I redid the rope-to-chain splice about a year ago. For me with frequent anchoring, it lasted about 6 years. The connecting link has performed flawlessly for 5 years or more...no issues at all, but it gets checked regularly when passing the 90 ft mark on my rode. If I was to do it again, I'd go with the 120 ft of chain from the get-go and eliminate the need for the connecting link...or I'd go with 200 ft of chain with another 200 of Brait. In essence, except for the very deepest anchorages, it'd be like having all chain rode.

Since I've respliced, occasionally, the splice will skip a little as it transitions through the gypsy...especially if there is a little load on it. Once I slacken the rode it usually works through just fine.
Thanks, I appreciate your honest and battle tested feedback.
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:34 PM   #47
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Bitter End Loop

I have this FRP loop in my chain locker. It's there to tie off the bitter end of the anchor rode. Do other Prairie 36's have this? Or some other method to tie it off?
It interfered with the chain drop from the new hole I cut for the new windlass. Sometimes it would drop inside of the loop and sometimes outside. I figured the chain or line could get fouled on it, so I cut it out. They just used a small piece of cardboard tube and glassed over it, about 1/8" thick.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:59 PM   #48
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Galley changes - Cooktop & Microwave

In addition to a new refrigerator the Admiral wanted a respectable sized microwave but didn't want to give up the limited countertop space. Note the microwave in the upper left corner of the first pic.
So we found a combination microware/convection oven that would fit in the cabinet if we removed the Princess range/oven. We had a cooktop from our last boat that we used.
Of course this would require some cabinetry modifications. The cooktop was easy, I just had to basically cut a bigger hole.
The new microwave/convection oven is a countertop model with feet that are about an inch high. So I built a shelf inside the cabinet for it to sit on and plan to secure it with some aluminum angle up against the sides that will screw into the shelf. I flipped the cabinet doors around so the microwave/convection oven will have side to side clearance as the door opens down.
I rewired the AC circuit behind the refrigerator to split the two outlets. The lower one is the refrigerator circuit & breaker. The top is now on the STBD outlets circuit & breaker, which the microwave/convection oven will plug into. The STBD outlets circuit & breaker will also get connected to an inverter in another project.

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Old 09-15-2016, 08:47 AM   #49
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Wow, nice work! Thanks for posting the pics.

One "feature" of the Princess range was that you could only run the cooktop OR the oven; not both at the same time. And the three cooktop elements were low-wattage, especially the rear one, which was for "warming only." This kept the overall current draw on that side of the breaker panel down below 30A total.

Obviously it's not too difficult to simply keep that maximum draw in mind, and manage your loads accordingly. But they build boats (and houses) for dummies who try to turn everything on at once.

I assume you're going to add a new breaker for the cooktop. The oven (at least, the microwave part) could be run from an inverter. Although technically possible, I'd try to avoid running the resistance elements of the oven through the inverter.

What is the amperage rating on the cooktop?
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:38 PM   #50
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Thanks Tom. Hope you don't have a sore neck. Don't know why my IPhone pics are posting sideways.
I still have to do some trim work and paint. Also plan to paint the Formica of the cabinet lower section to match white upper Formica.
We did notice the switch on the Princess for the range OR oven operation. Even though I have wired the cooktop on a separate circuit from the microwave/convection oven, at times we will still have a similar limitation as with the Princess.
The cooktop is on the 30A Range circuit and the breaker pops with all 4 burners on. Each burner is about a 10A draw. It wouldn't surprise me if the breaker popped with 3 burners on depending on when they sequence.
The microwave/convection oven is 1600 watts and will be on the STBD outlet circuit which I think is 15 or 20 amps. So doable at a little over 13 amps at full power.
So if she has a couple of burners on and decides to use the microwave at full power the individual breakers should be fine, but the 30A main will probably pop.
You're right, I don't expect to run the convection oven part much on the 2,000 watt inverter, but you never know it might work to reheat a slice of pizza, which would be better than a microwave.
My plan for the inverter was mainly the microwave, coffee maker, TV, curling iron, etc., not the whole boat.
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