Zincs get stuck in the coolers

[ssurabus]

Two other tricks, once they are stuck in the coolers:

1) https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/...ing-pencil-type-zinc-anodes-from-tight-spaces

2) As previously mentioned, muriatic acid/barnacle buster will dissolve them. You can sometimes pull a hose from both sides of a cooler to isolate it from the system, and then just fill that single cooler with acid to clean it out.

I always try a shop-vac first.

Bill Pike also wrote the following: https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/maintenance/review-of-redz-engine-anodes

 

[Tim]

Stuck zincs

One solution is to grind the exterior threads off a cap so it can be threaded onto the stuck zinc and pulled out. This works well if you don’t jostle the zinc after finding it has come unscrewed. Has saved by bacon many times.

 

[rgano]

An ideal which appeared here some time back was to grind the exterior threads off of a spare brass cap which enables you to tighten it onto the stuck anode's threaded end. Once threaded on, one has the option of further tightening or directly pulling with a suitable too in an attempt to loosen the anode.

I personally prefer pulling and checking the Progressive Metal AL anodes I use every three months. On the first pull, I almost always clean them up a bit and put them back in. I don't have sticking issue following this regime.

I have not done it yet, but I have though about greasing the first quarter inch of the anode where it contacts the cap to see what that does.

I thought Ted's idea of using a bushing to reduce the diameter of the anode was excellent, but I wonder if the reduced anode size is problematic.

 

[Comodave]

The times I have had an anode break off the anode has broken off flush with the end of the cap. So there are no threads left on the anode. I have tried the vacuum without success. I have also tried drilling the anode to put a screw into the anode but the anode just fell back into the aftercooler cap. I used my inspection camera and there wasn’t anything else in the cap so I just left it. I think the best idea was to put the anode on a lathe and turn it down a bit so it wouldn’t stick and break off. But I don’t have a lathe anymore so that isn’t an option for me.

 

[Bacchus]

The times I have had an anode break off the anode has broken off flush with the end of the cap. So there are no threads left on the anode. I have tried the vacuum without success. I have also tried drilling the anode to put a screw into the anode but the anode just fell back into the aftercooler cap. I used my inspection camera and there wasn’t anything else in the cap so I just left it. I think the best idea was to put the anode on a lathe and turn it down a bit so it wouldn’t stick and break off. But I don’t have a lathe anymore so that isn’t an option for me.

I have painted a band around the rod adjacentnto the cap and it seems to help where I got frequent break offs. I kind of like the idea of turning it down and wonder if a short piece of shrink tubing shrunk around the relieved ring would be a major improvement. Prevents to reaction of the alum in that area and provides a smooth release against any sticking.

 

[ssurabus]

The ideas are great, but engine anodes should not take the kind of effort that is being described.

 

[Comodave]

The ideas are great, but engine anodes should not take the kind of effort that is being described.

Have you ever had them stuck or break off? Then the effort seem reasonable.

 

[ssurabus]

Yes. I have experienced the problem often. I fully agree that there needs to be a solution - so I designed one. No tricks or effort required. They just work off the shelf. Unscrew them and they come out like they should.

https://redzincs.com/

https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/maintenance/review-of-redz-engine-anodes

They have been mentioned several times in this discussion. There are so many things to worry about on the boat, this zinc frustration shouldn't be where we are wasting our time and energy.

 

[BobMc]

Over the years of owning two trawlers, I found that when the zinc snaps off in the cap, it speeds up the dissolving process if you drill out the remaining zinc (smaller than the threads) before putting it in muriatic acid.

My solution is to not wait so long to change zincs. Zincs are cheap. If I change at 12 months they aren't swollen and brittle. I use to check at a year and reinsert because there was plenty of zinc left.

If you snap a zinc off in the cap, you can drop it in muriatic acid and it will dissolve the zinc.

 

[ORIF]

I have been using these zincs. So far they work as advertised. I have adopted a replacement schedule every three months.

https://redzincs.com/

I can recommend redzincs as well.
The owner/developer is a boater himself, which is how the concept he came up with evolved.
He is very attentive and provides great support.
I think he broke the mold on zinc design and hit on something that will negate or at least ameliorate the headache the OP describes

 

[GrenierM1]

We encountered this same exact problem ESPECIALLY on the starboard side aftercooler where the zinc broke. The access to this area is really tight on my boat making this task a nightmare, near impossible. Made the switch to REDZn and this problem has been eliminated. Given my continued success, my marina has now switched over to using redzincs.com in their customers boats.

 

[Bacchus]

Yes. I have experienced the problem often. I fully agree that there needs to be a solution - so I designed one. No tricks or effort required. They just work off the shelf. Unscrew them and they come out like they should.

https://redzincs.com/

https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/maintenance/review-of-redz-engine-anodes

They have been mentioned several times in this discussion. There are so many things to worry about on the boat, this zinc frustration shouldn't be where we are wasting our time and energy.

Just curious are the redzincs available w/ Alum anodes or only zinc?

 

[ssurabus]

AL is on the roadmap, but just zinc for now.

The reports of the aluminum engine anodes swelling are interesting (I've heard this several times now). The redzincs plugs are designed to pull out stuck anodes so it may be a fortunate meeting of material/design.

See number 9 & 10 here for some more info...as always Steve D'Antonio's articles are informative and interesting: https://redzincs.com/pages/faqs-tips

 

[ronobrien]

What about using some kind of thread locker, or would that defeat the purpose.

You run the risk of interrupting the electrical connection between the anode and the body of the cooler.

 

[guy with a boat]

We encountered this same exact problem ESPECIALLY on the starboard side aftercooler where the zinc broke. The access to this area is really tight on my boat making this task a nightmare, near impossible. Made the switch to REDZn and this problem has been eliminated. Given my continued success, my marina has now switched over to using redzincs.com in their customers boats.

There is nothing like a brand new, one-post member as a credible source to plug a product.

I have no problem with someone sharing info about their business/product, but these threads aren’t the place for sales pitches. Maybe better to join as a commercial member and advertise.

 

[Bmarler]

There is nothing like a brand new, one-post member as a credible source to plug a product.

I have no problem with someone sharing info about their business/product, but these threads aren’t the place for sales pitches. Maybe better to join as a commercial member and advertise.

That seems a little harsh. He’s not the one selling the product, he’s just relating his success using it. One post or one thousand doesn’t really matter, you don’t know his history unless you know of him personally. I just don’t like flaming people unless I have history with them, it turns them off from contributing.

 

[C lectric]

You run the risk of interrupting the electrical connection between the anode and the body of the cooler.

And for that reason I use my ohm meter to check for continuity of about 0.01 ohms. If not then I redo it. That has been my way for about 30 yrs. of zinc changes.
I am not the only one doing this and have said so many times.

Do as you wish but try the sealer, not gobs , but also use the ohmmeter, and yes I have had to redo the odd one but it is the odd one.

I will add though that it is a thread sealer, Rectorseal 5 or similar,
not a locker.

 

[guy with a boat]

That seems a little harsh. He’s not the one selling the product, he’s just relating his success using it. One post or one thousand doesn’t really matter, you don’t know his history unless you know of him personally. I just don’t like flaming people unless I have history with them, it turns them off from contributing.

You make a fair point. I might be overly skeptical in suspecting a burner account.

Probably better off assuming the best and encouraging the dialog.

I apologize to anyone in the audience that my actions may have offended.

 

[Bmarler]

You make a fair point. I might be overly skeptical in suspecting a burner account.

Probably better off assuming the best and encouraging the dialog.

I apologize to anyone in the audience that my actions may have offended.

thank you for your consideration. appreciate sensible dialog.