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Old 11-08-2018, 08:07 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Larry M View Post
We’re talking hull types. See my previous post.

Edit: Here’s an article to help confuse the issue.

https://abycinc.org/blogpost/1678504...ion+Protection
ABYC has set numerous standards that help improve boating safety along with boat construction. But I differ with them and others when they define galvanic corrosion related to hull type/material. A non-conducting hull means it can never by itself influence galvanic corrosion which occurs to exposed METALS in a conductive solution.
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Old 11-08-2018, 09:25 PM   #22
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So i guess

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Originally Posted by foggysail View Post
ABYC has set numerous standards that help improve boating safety along with boat construction. But I differ with them and others when they define galvanic corrosion related to hull type/material. A non-conducting hull means it can never by itself influence galvanic corrosion which occurs to exposed METALS in a conductive solution.
What you are saying is that ABYC, based on no evidence or study made up a bunch of numbers? I have seen these numbers referenced by other experts on boat maintenance to include Calder. I am thinking they have a clue.
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Old 11-09-2018, 01:16 AM   #23
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Anything wrong with putting both a zinc and a magnesium anode on a stainless shaft in fresh water??

Down sides or up sides...
It would be a waste. In fresh water the magnesium is the way to go. The zinc anode won’t do anything and the magnesium will do all the work. You can use aluminum in fresh water. I use aluminum in fresh water since I can’t find all of the sizes I need in magnesium.
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Old 11-09-2018, 01:35 AM   #24
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It would be a waste. In fresh water the magnesium is the way to go. The zinc anode won’t do anything and the magnesium will do all the work. You can use aluminum in fresh water. I use aluminum in fresh water since I can’t find all of the sizes I need in magnesium.
When I moved from salt water into fresh water There was full set of new zinc anodes on all underwater portions, as well as a bonded "divers dream" plate on transom.

Every 3 to 4 months [or sooner] I go under boat and scrub all zinc surfaces clean with rigid bronze brush and stainless scraper. As the zincs slowly decreased in size [doing their surface shedding protection due to consistently cleaned surfaces] I began adding mag anodes. By next summer all anodes will be magnesium.

I've had zero trouble with boat's metal parts.

BTW - Boat is kept in an electric current cool marina and never left for any length of time [more than a few days in a row] with dock power plugged in. Also, all batteries are switched into isolation when leaving boat.
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