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Old 11-21-2014, 05:27 PM   #41
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Speaking of shopvacs, I use a "Buckethead" from Home Depot for about $20. Its a vac head that fits on a std 5 or 3 gal bucket. If you are short on room on board, pop the head off, empty the contents and store the head. Then you can use the bucket for something else.
I have 2. One older one I keep set up for liquids. The other I have in the engine room with a short exhaust hose that reaches the saloon door and a 25 foot hose that comes up and stores in the saloon door step that can reach the whole interior of the boat. I leave it turned on and just pull out the hose, plug it in and I have a powerful, inexpensive built in vac system.
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Old 11-21-2014, 05:51 PM   #42
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I've also used oxyclean in a bucket to clean gummy electric cords. Soak for a few hours and wipe off. Keep the ends out of the bucket.
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Old 11-21-2014, 05:55 PM   #43
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A ice maker type valve with a short piece of tubing to drain my Simms injection pump on the FL 120. Also the capacity of the pump is 14oz. No need to remove the overflow bolt.
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Old 11-21-2014, 06:15 PM   #44
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Great thread. I'm a DIY'er to the max. I dive the boat myself and got tired of going through all the motions of getting into the cold water just to find out all's well with the zincs and such. Now I just lower a GoPro camera attached to a pole and video record the bottom. The image is then downloaded to my laptop and I can see if I need to get wet or leave it be till next month.

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Old 11-21-2014, 09:44 PM   #45
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If you don't have a ring compressor to install impellers you can use a plastic zip type cable tie, just orient the impeller fins and tighten the tie close to one end of the impeller start it into the housing and slide the zip tie back as the impeller slides into the pump.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:54 PM   #46
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Repair holes, damage, on molded-in deck texture. Lightly grease a section of undamaged textured deck. Apply silicone sealant to a piece of cardboard (not corrigated) larger than the damaged area. Press this into the greased area. Remove when cured. Use this mold, also greased, keyed into surrounding area, to texture the repair area. Keep it for future use.
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:00 PM   #47
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Quote:
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If you don't have a ring compressor to install impellers you can use a plastic zip type cable tie, just orient the impeller fins and tighten the tie close to one end of the impeller start it into the housing and slide the zip tie back as the impeller slides into the pump.
or use a hose clamp..
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:20 PM   #48
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Repair holes, damage, on molded-in deck texture. Lightly grease a section of undamaged textured deck. Apply silicone sealant to a piece of cardboard (not corrigated) larger than the damaged area. Press this into the greased area. Remove when cured. Use this mold, also greased, keyed into surrounding area, to texture the repair area. Keep it for future use.

Great idea


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Old 11-22-2014, 09:18 AM   #49
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Here is one I have used to save:
Use valve grinding compound on screws, bolts, nuts that are rusted or worn to prevent slipping, rounding off of the part. Valve grinding compound is available at most parts stores. A small tube lasts for years and saves many Phillips screws that the driver slips on. Just a dab on the tip is all you need to increase the friction.
I place an inline squeeze bulb in the fuel lines to my Racors to fill to the brim after filter change.
The tips you have shared are very good Thanks for all!
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:32 AM   #50
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I know there are different opinions about metal polish and stainless but here goes...
I wipe all inside and outside stainless with NEVR DULL as my last step in winterizing. I do not wipe it off until spring commissioning leaving a light film on the surfaces. It seems to protect the stainless over the winter and all I have to do in the spring is polish it off and I have sparkling stainless.
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:17 AM   #51
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Quote:
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or use a hose clamp..
HOLLYWOOD
I think hose clamps and zip ties work up to a certain size, but not beyond. I used zip ties for a couple of years and the problem was that if the tie was close enough to the edge of the impeller to keep the fins compressed enough to fit, the pressure from the uncompressed fins on the other side tended to push the tie off the impeller, or push the impeller back out of the pump body before it's completely installed. If I placed the tie more towards the center so it wouldn't pop off, the parts of the fins hanging out beyond the tie would be too wide to fit the pump body.

Now we are talking about a pretty big impeller here, and this is much easier with smaller ones. The QSC has an impeller that 3-4" long and about 3" in diameter. Extraction is with a 7/8" bolt threaded through the center of the impeller. Even with the compressor, I found I still had to remove the pumps and do the work on a bench, and it was still a wrestling match.

The nice thing about the cuff-style ring compressor is that it completely encompasses the whole impeller and compresses the whole thing with no parts hanging out causing it to want to pop out.

I'm quite happy the new boat is dry exhaust, and the wing and genset have small impellers so I won't have to deal with this any more.
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:28 AM   #52
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I thought of another "tool" that others might find useful. It's actually a two part tool.

I found winterizing my AC, generator, and raw water washdown we difficult. So I made strainer caps with how fittings. Just bought replacement caps in the correct sizes (I needed two different sizes), drilled and tapped the center of the cap, and installed a hose bib fitting. To winterize I just put on the special cap and a hose to draw in non-tox.

The second part is that the AC and wash down pumps have no draw and need to be naturally flooded/primed to move any water or non-tox. So I took a 5 gal pail and installed a fitting and ball valve at the bottom. I used a $5 plastic discharge fitting meant for a small boat bilge pump. The mushroom side is inside the bucket and the threaded part and retaining ring on the outside. A little 5200 and the whole thing will seal up real well. Then fit a ball valve to the threaded end of the thruhull, plus another hose fitting, and you are good to go. Now I just fill the bucket with non-tox and locate it above the strainer and/or pump. Gravity primes the pump and it draws the pink in with no trouble. Combined these made winterizing much easier, and can also be used to circulate barnicle buster to clean scale out of systems, and I use it for servicing the water maker as well (cleaning in between, of course).
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Old 11-22-2014, 12:20 PM   #53
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Thanks for the great tips!
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Old 11-22-2014, 01:43 PM   #54
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I got tired of messing around with the large buckets when I changed my oil so I started looking for a better solution.

I found it at the brewery restaurant right at the top of our docks. Restaurants get their cooking oil in these cardboard containers. They're perfect for putting the old oil in....they have a built in handle at the top, they're reusable, they store nicely because they're square, and they're easy to handle. I asked the restaurant to save me several (they just throw them out when empty) and have them stored in my garage.

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Old 11-23-2014, 06:55 AM   #55
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A simple bucket for bringing water from overboard is at every feed store.

The black pails will not mar the vessel side and the smaller size makes them easier to lift.

Not Boat , so pretty cheap to.

They DO NOT FLOAT , so a long cord with a float on the end , or a snap shackel to a life line might help.
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:33 AM   #56
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Battery water system (I know it's been mentioned) works great and allows the 8 battery (6V golf cart) bank to be topped off in 5 min, 100 bucks +-.

Battery Watering Systems, Marine Dock Products, Solar Dock Lights

I added a commercial 6 inch exhaust fan to run constantly at the dock (120 volt) to ventilate the boat, it's below deck in the AC plenum and pulls air from all compartments. This allows me to change the air in the boat every 3 or 4 mins (425 cfm) and prevents odors, mildew and saves the AC units as they are now off. This works great.



4 6 8 10 12 Inline Fan Duct Exhaust Blower Vent inch Hydroponics Air Cooling Can | eBay
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:26 AM   #57
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That's a great find Scott. I'm gonna look at setting one up.


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:49 AM   #58
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That's a great find Scott. I'm gonna look at setting one up.


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
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I got the idea from here..

http://cleanairflo.com/specification...pecifications/

But I'm to cheap for that kind of cost.
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:59 AM   #59
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I tried all the method posted trying to keep oil from getting into the bilge. My fix was an off the engine oil filter kit that is used a lot by off road 4 wheelers and those re-powering older cars/trucks. I ordered mine from a Jegs catalog but I think most auto parts stores can order them. You need to take in an old filter so they can match up the gasket seating area and thread size. the kits come with the adapter plate, filter receiver and hoses. I added the backing board. The best thing about changing the filter now is no oil spillage, I can use a larger filter and I can prefill the filter with oil.
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:40 PM   #60
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The best thing about changing the filter now is no oil spillage, I can use a larger filter and I can prefill the filter with oil.
Bill
Does the larger filter extend your oil change interval? If so, by how much?
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