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Old 11-21-2014, 09:57 AM   #21
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An outboard type squeeze bulb pump right before the racors. Bleeding the entire system or just refilling the racors to the brim without spilling a drop.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:02 AM   #22
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Punching a hole in big diesel lube oil filters to drain them before removal. No more dirty oil spills
And slide a gallon ziplock bag around the filter to make it dripless removal and disposal. __________________

I seal the hole, after draining, with a metal screw and anything rubber including faucet washers. The filter is then dry, light and easy to handle.


I have not had good luck with the do it inside a baggie process. If the filter is full, oil comes out and its like grabbing a greased pig. If it is empty there is no need. Of course I have heard rumors that some filters are positioned for easy access.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:11 AM   #23
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Aluminum foil placed under filters in such a way as to drain into a pan saves a lot of mess.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:14 AM   #24
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Shop vac to get genset impeller parts out of heat exchanger. Pull the "output" hose off the water pump, duct tape your shop vac to the hose, make sure the exhaust "flap" is open (if you have one), turn on the vac and count the pieces you get to match how many are missing from the impeller. Works well on my Onan.
That is a great idea!
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:24 AM   #25
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On our sailboat, Yanmar 2GMF, we installed a speedseal on the raw water pump. Made it possible to change the impeller with no tools. Unfortunately, I don't think they make ones for larger diesels.

Also on the sailboat, I got a piece of pvc pipe almost the same inside diameter as our prop shaft. I cut it to around four inches long with a slit down the side. Heated it with a heat gun, and formed it to the prop shaft. When we would change the stuffing box packing, I would use the piece of PVC to pack in the loops.

On our Nordic Tug, we have a fuel fill that is a straight shot to the tank. We had considered installing a site glass to know exactly how much fuel we have on board, but instead I measured the height of the tank, then transfered marks to a piece of dowl at 1/8 increments. Painted the dowel with clear epoxy and now have a dip stick that tells us EXACTLY how much fuel we have in the tank. With a 200 gal tank, each mark is 25 gals. Cheap and easy.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:41 AM   #26
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On our sailboat, Yanmar 2GMF, we installed a speedseal on the raw water pump. Made it possible to change the impeller with no tools. Unfortunately, I don't think they make ones for larger diesels.

Also on the sailboat, I got a piece of pvc pipe almost the same inside diameter as our prop shaft. I cut it to around four inches long with a slit down the side. Heated it with a heat gun, and formed it to the prop shaft. When we would change the stuffing box packing, I would use the piece of PVC to pack in the loops.

On our Nordic Tug, we have a fuel fill that is a straight shot to the tank. We had considered installing a site glass to know exactly how much fuel we have on board, but instead I measured the height of the tank, then transfered marks to a piece of dowl at 1/8 increments. Painted the dowel with clear epoxy and now have a dip stick that tells us EXACTLY how much fuel we have in the tank. With a 200 gal tank, each mark is 25 gals. Cheap and easy.
A stick with marks or a see through plastic tank are the only methods I swear by.

We have stick stabber for the assistance tow boat and people who have run out of gas that I respond to just shake their heads when I show them the stick. Usually just after I tell them the most unreliable thing on their boat is their fuel gauge.

Some gauges are OK... but not the typical ones unless you get lucky or fiddle with them all the time.
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:33 PM   #27
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Cafe sport. Did you fabricate the flusher or by them.

Made my own 3/4" hose bib shutoff valve w/MNPT end threaded into the top of the strainer.


Via iPhone.
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:56 PM   #28
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The best boat maintenance tip I've gotten came from a member of this forum who appears to be no longer active on it. This is to use GoJo as a cleaner for fenders and shorepower cords. The original GoJo with pumice. Nothing else we have ever tried works as well, and we tried a lot of things before learning about GoJo.

As an aside, Boeing now uses GoJo (with pumice) in all the assembly plant washrooms. Terrific stuff.
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:10 PM   #29
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it is great stuff and has so many uses
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:13 PM   #30
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The best boat maintenance tip I've gotten came from a member of this forum who appears to be no longer active on it. This is to use GoJo as a cleaner for fenders and shorepower cords. The original GoJo with pumice. Nothing else we have ever tried works as well, and we tried a lot of things before learning about GoJo.

As an aside, Boeing now uses GoJo (with pumice) in all the assembly plant washrooms. Terrific stuff.
Is pumice that gritty stuff?
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:18 PM   #31
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Shop vac to get genset impeller parts out of heat exchanger. Pull the "output" hose off the water pump, duct tape your shop vac to the hose, make sure the exhaust "flap" is open (if you have one), turn on the vac and count the pieces you get to match how many are missing from the impeller. Works well on my Onan.

Does it not suck hard enough to be concerned with the water laying in the muffler coming back into the Manifold?
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Old 11-21-2014, 02:48 PM   #32
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Is pumice that gritty stuff?
Yes.
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Old 11-21-2014, 02:49 PM   #33
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........ I have not had good luck with the do it inside a baggie process. If the filter is full, oil comes out and its like grabbing a greased pig. ........
Neither have I. I gave up and bought some disposable aluminum baking pans. There's a place under the horizontally mounted (what were they thinking?) oil filter where I can place the pan and catch the oil that leaks out.
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Old 11-21-2014, 02:57 PM   #34
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Punching a hole in big diesel lube oil filters to drain them before removal. No more dirty oil spills
Absolutely. I was told this trick by one of the mechanics at our diesel shop. A particularly good tip for FL120 owners with the stock upside down oil filter mount.

I run the engine until the oil filter is warm to hott-ish to the touch, shut down, punch a couple of holes in the top (bottom) of the oil filter, then proceed to pull the oil out of the engine sump. By the time I've finished that, the oil filter is virtually empty. Wrap a rag around the base, unscrew the filter and drop it in a small trash bag and that's that. No spill, no mess.
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Old 11-21-2014, 03:58 PM   #35
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Does it not suck hard enough to be concerned with the water laying in the muffler coming back into the Manifold?
Not a lot of water comes out, it sort of "spits" water and bits of the impeller. So I personally have not had an issue with annual impeller changes using this procedure.
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Old 11-21-2014, 04:12 PM   #36
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I used to always do the hole in the filter trick till one time the replacement had bad threads.

So now sitting on my garage floor with no way to the parts store......

I use bags....for many not all applications and with a large , heavy duty bag I have no issues.
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Old 11-21-2014, 04:27 PM   #37
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That would be a problem, no question. However, with two engines and always a spair pair of oil filters on board, it's not a problem we'd be likely to encounter.
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Old 11-21-2014, 04:31 PM   #38
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Some great tips just like I was hoping for due to all of the experience on this board.
I really like the dipstick idea and am learning a lot from other posts.

When I got my first boat that was big enough to overnight on (27 foot Searay) I rented my first marina slip. Lucky for me that in the slip next to me was a mechanical engineer living on his boat while working on a project for a nearby DuPont plant. Lucky because he was always happy to help when I was doing stuff on my boat. He was full of great tips and practical advice which I was soaking up like a sponge. I credit him with keeping me from giving up on boating because I couldn't afford to pay a shop for maintenance or repairs.

Thanks to everyone who has responded so far. Keep those ideas coming ��
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Old 11-21-2014, 05:09 PM   #39
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I used to always do the hole in the filter trick till one time the replacement had bad threads.

So now sitting on my garage floor with no way to the parts store......
.
Yep, that could be a problem. And I got hold of a Racor for my boat with bad threads once.
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Old 11-21-2014, 05:16 PM   #40
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Speaking of shopvacs, I use a "Buckethead" from Home Depot for about $20. Its a vac head that fits on a std 5 or 3 gal bucket. If you are short on room on board, pop the head off, empty the contents and store the head. Then you can use the bucket for something else.
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