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Old 12-09-2013, 03:53 AM   #1
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wood trim maintenance.

Need some [er lots of] advice on maintaining the exterior wood trim on my boat. Never had any timber on my old boats so have never needed to maintain, hence my total ignorance.

Most of the [I assume] varnish on these bits has come off and I have no idea what is best to use. Obviously I'll have to sand/prep/mask off and that;s no problem - but what is the best product to use after that? Once again - this isn't decking - but rather trim/surrounds.

Cheers!
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Old 12-09-2013, 04:38 AM   #2
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Depends on what finish you're after and what your skill level is mate. I personally prefer to remove the trims and spray them in 2pak clear (gloss or matt) Brucek just did his trims and should chime in soon. If not PM him. Cheers Hendo
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Old 12-09-2013, 10:38 AM   #3
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I first used a heat gun to get most of the old varnish off, then a sander with 80 or 100 grit for the rest. I prefer to leave the wood not smooth and with feathers so the varnish has something to stick adhere to rather than just lay on top. Lightly sand between each coat and apply at least 4 coats. For areas that are weather worn I use epoxy for the first coat with varnish over. I have found the polyurethane paints/varnish hold up well.

While you are stripping the varnish might as well stripe the old caulking and replace as well. Apply the vanish first then the caulking. I do not tape when applying the varnish but due tape when doing the calking. Itís a yearly project to keep the bright work up.
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:40 AM   #4
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Bundaberg: keeping varnish up in your climate will be a serious, every 9-12 months job even if you do it all right. Lots and lots of discussion (argument !) on this forum around pros and cons of different treatments. I'm normally in Sydney but am at Mooloolaba now on my way back after a staged cruise to the Whitsundays. Varnish applied in Sydney 8 months before leaving is now a mess in very exposed areas; Cetol applied to flybridge caprail as an experiment looks as-new. I'll be re-doing varnish work in Cetol, using their newer 'Natural' product. I'm also going to experiment with applying Cetol's Gloss Plus as a finishing coat to one area and see if I like the glossiness...it is also supposed to further extend the life of the Natural.

Hendo also has a good point about just painting out with 2-pak.....but obviously this depends on the effect this would have on the look of the boat in your eyes and those of the prospective next purchaser.
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:03 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies.

On doing a bit of research here, I'm liking the sound of Cetol. Aquabelle - a post on a thread here (from US - i think, i read it here last night and now can't find it) says that Sikken is ceasing production of Cetol. Doesn't seem to be a problem to find out here - I wonder if it's the same stuff? Is this the range of Cetol you've used?

Cheers!
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendo78 View Post
Depends on what finish you're after and what your skill level is mate. I personally prefer to remove the trims and spray them in 2pak clear (gloss or matt) Brucek just did his trims and should chime in soon.
After repetitive annual sanding back and varnishing of exposed cappings on my last boat, on this one I use Deks Olje 1(oil) & 2(gloss). The initial oil saturation takes a day, after that it needs fresh #2 annually, plus some # 1 selectively reapplied, all easily done, saves sand back to green teak every year. Easy to maintain, not as smart as varnish, a compromise not everyone likes. Elsewhere I use/like Cetol Gloss. I hear good things about 2 pack varnishes.I would not remove cappings to refinish, but removable things like flybridge stairs get a much better job done at home.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:37 PM   #7
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I just used Cetol. Two coats Natural, and five coats clear gloss. It looks fantastic. Hopefuly one maintinence coat a year will keep it looking good for a long time. Have a post on our blog with lots of pics if you are interested.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:58 PM   #8
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Greetings,
Re-doing all the bright work. Was using Cetol Marine as maintenance/protective coat on the failing/failed bare spots. Started a couple of months ago with a full scrape down of all old finish to bare teak. Two coats of Cetol Marine thus far.
On the screen door, which is removable, put on two additional coats of Cetol gloss. On a small section I put on a third and fourth coat sanding, fairly aggressively, in between coats. Can says don't sand but finish just wasn't smooth enough so I sanded. I think one more light sanding and another coat of gloss should give me the mirror finish I'm looking for (I hope).
I plan on grooving the joints in the cap rail and filling with black caulk but I'm VERY hesitant to do it free hand and it will be difficult, given the location of the joints with respect to the stanchions, to rig up a guide. THAT one is a head scratcher.
Mr. Ready. Just read your blog but you say you put on varnish not Cetol. Which is it?
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Old 12-09-2013, 08:06 PM   #9
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Bristol Finish is also an option, though not for everybody. It allows you to go "wet on wet" and have a quick build up. Cost here is $60-$70 for the quart kit, I prefer using a quality natural bristle brush (white china), haven't hD much luck using a foam brush.
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Old 12-09-2013, 08:21 PM   #10
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Two coats Cetol Natural teak, and five coats Cetol Clear Gloss.
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Old 12-09-2013, 10:24 PM   #11
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R2G - Was the cetol you used the 'marine' grade cetol - or is it the marine division of cetol that has stopped producing?
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Old 12-10-2013, 01:17 AM   #12
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I'm working on my rain forest of teak now. Started with two coats of lightly thinned epoxy then topping with five to eight coats of Schooner varnish. The pics are after the first coat of epoxy.
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Old 12-10-2013, 01:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shufti View Post
Need some [er lots of] advice on maintaining the exterior wood trim on my boat. Never had any timber on my old boats so have never needed to maintain, hence my total ignorance.

Most of the [I assume] varnish on these bits has come off and I have no idea what is best to use. Obviously I'll have to sand/prep/mask off and that;s no problem - but what is the best product to use after that? Once again - this isn't decking - but rather trim/surrounds.

Cheers!
In light of your description Shufti, I would endorse the vote for Cetol Marine Natural. I use it a lot in similar situations to what you describe, and although it does not ever look as good as real well-kept multi-coated high gloss varnish, it comes close second and is way easier to freshen up each couple of years with minimal sand/clean-up.
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Old 12-10-2013, 03:46 AM   #14
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More interested in preserving the brightwork (I learned a new term this week ) than making a concourse queen so 'second best' in appearance is fine. Pretty much anything will be an improvement anyway.

Ready2Go and Daddyo - very nice looking wood there. That rainforest teak is stunning.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:51 AM   #15
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shufti

This is what I used. I would be very surprised if Sikkens stopped making it, as it is very widely used. I sanded in between every other coat. The directions say not to sand as it will make the overall thickness too thin, but then they only recomend three coats. I was putting on seven so I wasn't worried about thickness.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-10-2013, 11:40 AM   #16
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Can't resist jumping in here. many reports of how much the workload differs between Cetol and varnish. Unfortunately, those reports originate only from committed Cetol users. I have tried Cetol and have observed committed Cetol users recoat times. I don't accept the reports that it is less frequent than varnish for similar results.
I do gree that recently redone Cetol looks only second best to recently recoated varnish. What I see is that one year old Cetol has deteriorated just as much as one year old varnish, two year old Cetol needs to be redone, just as two year old varnish needs re-doing. Older Cetol and older varnish both need more work.
My conclusion: No free lunch. To get a good looking wood finish, takes work. A better finish takes more work. Some products get you a little closer, but it still takes more work for a better outcome.
I personally swear by Epifanes varnish. It lasts longer than any other I have tried, goes on easier, requires less sanding between coats. Costs the same as other good varnishes.
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Old 12-10-2013, 01:12 PM   #17
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I don't understand the passion for Cetol. They are nuts about it in Alaska. Cetol everywhere.

Keith I think Cetol IS a varnish. Never heard or read what's in the stuff but It's just another brand of varnish as far as I can tell and I've never heard otherwise.

I've used McCloskie's varnish. It's wonderful but soft. Actually I don't think there is any difference worth talking about between the high quality varnishes like Epifanes, Schooner, McCloskie's, Deks Olje and several others. They are all made with the same elements now. It used to be that Tung oil and phenolic resin made the best varnish so all you needed to do was read the can. But now it seems the ingredients are the manufacturer's secret .. I don't like it. There may be varnish w unknown names that areas good as the big name varnish but I know of none.

The biggest variable in clear finishes is the preparation. Kinda like the biggest variable in anchoring is the bottom where your anchor does it's work. No miracle product will turn your life around contrary to the opinions expressed on this forum. Just my opinion.
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:33 AM   #18
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No miracle product will turn your life around contrary to the opinions expressed on this forum.
NOOOooooo ... Say it isn't so!!! .... Hahaha :-P :-D
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:48 AM   #19
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LOL - bloody killjoy, isn't he
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:31 AM   #20
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After going through the above, I appreciate the lack of exterior wood and mostly only worry about polishing stainless steel.

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