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Old 12-12-2013, 02:37 AM   #21
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Bah... that's my next job.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:02 AM   #22
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LOL - bloody killjoy, isn't he
Indeed I've been known to do/be that but in this case I'm a bringer of glad news. You don't need to fear your life going south because you failed to find the magic product. Basically any quality product will be excellent as long as you do the prep. Or is that it ... you want the dream to be forfilled w/o doing the prep? Sorry. Even need to do that if you use house paint. And speaking of house paint that will do as many a commercial fisherman will tell you. You'll need to pick a color and accept a finish w/o high gloss though. But when you put house paint on your house you expect it to last well over 10 years and it does well on boats too.

So in a real way I can tell you Hendo "it isn't so". But even w house paint one must use a quality product and do at least some preparation.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:03 AM   #23
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Did an experiment 2 years back. Stripped to bare wood my badly weathered handrails, caprails, and other teak exterior trim. Used Epifanes on my port handrail and caprail. On the starboard side I used a good quality clear gloss varnish (with UV protection) purchased at Lowe's for less than half the price. Nine coats on each side using foam brushes. Results? Last spring after a year and a half in the brutal southern sun I could tell no difference whatever in the two sides. Both held up very well and looked sparkling. This past summer as a precaution I did a light sanding of everything with 200 grit paper and added 3 additional coats of the cheap stuff. My plan is to stay on top of it with annual recoatings. I did NOT follow the manufacturer's recommendations (wait 24-hours between coats); rather, I "hot coated," in other words added the follow-up coat as soon as the previous coat was dry enough not to come off when touched, but "sticky" feeling to the touch. Was able to get 3, sometimes 4 coats done in a day of good weather. For what it's worth amigos!
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:47 PM   #24
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I am refinishing some interior teak cabinets and the Epifanies clear varnish is peeling right off.
I used a thinned first and second coat then straight. This boat went down in salt water.
Is there a particular product I should clean with or prime to get this to stick?


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Old 02-08-2014, 02:38 PM   #25
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but what is the best product to use after that? Once again - this isn't decking - but rather trim/surrounds.
Sikken Cetol - It's a low maintenance non varnish product. Apply it as instructed with brush or rag, then lightly rough it up every Spring with scotchbrite or fine sandpaper and recoat with Cetol light. Wear points can be easily touched up and it will last many years with minimal effort.
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Old 02-08-2014, 04:17 PM   #26
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Sikken Cetol - It's a low maintenance non varnish product. Apply it as instructed with brush or rag, then lightly rough it up every Spring with scotchbrite or fine sandpaper and recoat with Cetol light. Wear points can be easily touched up and it will last many years with minimal effort.
Is this a product that you would finish interior walls with? I stripped out the old paneling and put in new teak plywood.
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Old 02-08-2014, 04:33 PM   #27
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Depends on the finish you are looking for. I opted for more of a flat finish for the teak kitchen salon cabinets. They're not in direct sun all the time, so you have the option of many different products. We tested a number of different finishes and we really liked bare teak finished with three coats of Cetol light. It really soaks into the wood like oil and doesn't lay on the top like varnish. It's been probably five years now and we haven't touched it since and it still looks good.

We were just talking about redoing them, because we bought a new built-in fridge with teak doors and of course they don't match the rest of the cabinets. So we may just do that this summer.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:30 AM   #28
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Thanks, I bought some Cetol and am trying it on some sample teak pieces.
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Old 02-18-2014, 10:20 AM   #29
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Greetings,
Mr. E. So is the Cetol light more matte than the regular Cetol Marine? I'd like to overcoat some interior teak but I find the regular Cetol too glossy. I'd really like to match, as much as possible, the very matte original finish and use as thin a coat as possible. Some of the urethanes I've tested seem to produce too "thick" a finish.
Thanks
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:04 AM   #30
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After going through the above, I appreciate the lack of exterior wood and mostly only worry about polishing stainless steel.
Yeah, but wait for a few more years and the steel hull up keep starts, inside and outside. A teak caprail is a piece of cake in comparison.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:02 PM   #31
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Anyone had any experience with Alexseal products?
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:56 PM   #32
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Bryan B,
The first two coats probably didn't perform as usual I'm think'in. If the boat was sunk that teak probably still has a lot of moisture in it. The sealed in water lifted the new finish off.

Perhaps using a mix of a small amount of oil w lots of turpentine for season may let the moisture out of the wood. I frequently use 15% oil (Linseed raw) w the turp.

As a test you may be able to heat the wood and see evidence of moisture.

I use light oil everywhere inside on Willy all the time.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:06 PM   #33
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Greetings,
Mr. BR. I'm in the process (VERY slow) of a repaint with Alexseal. Thus far the only Alexseal product I've applied is: http://www.alexseal.com/docs/tsds/en...und_202_en.pdf
Goes on quite nicely. I'll report when I get to the coatings stage.
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:08 PM   #34
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I've seen this highly recommended for interior teak, the problem is because it's a wax it's difficult to go back to teak oil.
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:43 PM   #35
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Firefly. Thanks. The PO had the caprails finished with the Alexseal system at a yard in Charleston last year just before I purchased the boat. It's a beautiful finish but I fear it will be too complex to touch up.
I will be anxious to hear how it goes with your project.
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:16 PM   #36
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Greetings,
Mr. BR. You're welcome. "I will be anxious to hear how it goes with your project." Not half as anxious as I will be to get it done. I've about had it with this winter. It will be rolled and tipped. No spraying possible in her present location. I did some internet research before choosing the Alexseal and it seemed to be preferred over Awlgrip due to recent problems with Awlgrip applications. From what I vaguely understand, Alexseal is easier to touch up than Awlgrip.
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:37 PM   #37
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I use(d) Le Tonkinoise varnish, only linseed oil and tung oil. They have 2 products you can try. You need at least 5 or preferably 7 or more coats.

The secret to varnish is to keep re coating. Get out a can of Guinness, get yourself a nice foam brush (throw-always) and a Scotchbrite pad. Scruff it up with the pad, clean it with a tack cloth (not waxed) and slap on another coat. It's good for your liver, your tan and your ego and you won't have to scrape the whole lot off and start over. And no evil solvents or other ingredients in Le Tonk.
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:45 PM   #38
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Once you've used a wax on your boat, you have forever doomed yourself to bird's eyes in any varnish you apply. Keep the wax off and the silicones too, if you ever want to use varnish again.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:11 PM   #39
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Once you've used a wax on your boat, you have forever doomed yourself to bird's eyes in any varnish you apply...
I`d have thought good sanding prep should fix that.
BTW, the Howard brand product in post 34 is an Aussie brand, their waxes and restoration products, primarily for antique furniture, do work.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:20 PM   #40
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Try it, Bruce.
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