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Old 12-09-2014, 10:32 AM   #1
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Winterizing Assistance

Good morning,

Does anyone have any recommendations for someone in the Hampton Roads area that could assist me in winterizing our KK42? She is in the water at Salt Ponds Marina in Hampton.

I would like to do as much of it as possible myself, but would like some help with the engine and generator. This will be my first, and hopefully only, time doing this; so I want to be sure I do it correctly.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 12-09-2014, 02:02 PM   #2
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Winterizing Assistance

Full Throttle Diesel
757-546-7936

Used them last year. Quick, reliable, competitively priced.

Greg Hales
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Old 12-09-2014, 03:01 PM   #3
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Full Throttle Diesel
757-546-7936

Used them last year. Quick, reliable, competitively priced.

Greg Hales
"Tranquility"
KK42-023

Thanks Greg! I got that same recommendation from someone on the Krogen Cruisers Forum. I'll give them a call.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:48 PM   #4
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Thought you wanted to do it yourself. Winterizing a genny and an engine is easy.
1. Run the engine and generator up to temperature and then change the oil and the oil filter.
2. Close the seawater intake, remove the top of the seawater strainer and pour non-toxic antifreeze into the strainer while an assistant runs the engine until the stuff comes out of the exhaust for a minute or so. Do this for both the engine and the generator.
3. Go home, you are done with the engine and generator and saved a bunch of $$$.
4. Remember to open the seawater thru hulls when you start the units in the spring.

Good luck, Howard
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:59 PM   #5
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Thought you wanted to do it yourself. Winterizing a genny and an engine is easy.
1. Run the engine and generator up to temperature and then change the oil and the oil filter.
2. Close the seawater intake, remove the top of the seawater strainer and pour non-toxic antifreeze into the strainer while an assistant runs the engine until the stuff comes out of the exhaust for a minute or so. Do this for both the engine and the generator.
3. Go home, you are done with the engine and generator and saved a bunch of $$$.
4. Remember to open the seawater thru hulls when you start the units in the spring.

Good luck, Howard

That does sound kind of easy. I guess I should give it a try. Do I need to rig up a 5 gallon pail with a hose running into the sea strainer?
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:08 PM   #6
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No, I simply line up the bottles of the antifreeze with the bottles opened. I then pour them in as needed. For the generator you will need less antifreeze than for the engine. I should add that I'm assuming the glycol antifreeze in the freshwater cooling system of both units is up to snuff.
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Old 12-10-2014, 06:23 AM   #7
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It is indeed a project you can do yourself, but it needs to be done correctly.

I did it for the first time last month and spent a ton of time researching the proper methods. Do a search with my log in name "timjet" to get good info.

BoatUS has a good checklist on their web site but the info on this forum is much better.

Don't forget the engines aren't the only system that needs winterizing.
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Old 12-10-2014, 07:23 AM   #8
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Tim/Howard, Thanks for the info. I re-read all of the winterizing threads. I think I will give it a shot. Seems like the most variation on the FW system. Not sure if I want to put the pink stuff in or try blowing out the lines.
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Old 12-10-2014, 08:19 AM   #9
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Tim/Howard, Thanks for the info. I re-read all of the winterizing threads. I think I will give it a shot. Seems like the most variation on the FW system. Not sure if I want to put the pink stuff in or try blowing out the lines.
If your water system is easy and accessible, don't be afraid to use pink antifreeze.
In the lines is no big deal, in the water heater and water tanks is another story as they are harder to flush.
If you drain the heater and tanks well, they are usually fine with no antifreeze.
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Old 12-10-2014, 08:47 AM   #10
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Doesn't make sense to blow out the lines to me. You still need to fill all your fw lines with anti-freeze. Blowing out the lines will not remove all the water, especially in low spots where it will collect and allow air to pass above, ready to cause trouble when it freezes.

I've heard the pink stuff is very difficult to get out of water tanks and heaters, so best to empty as best you can and leave alone.
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:42 AM   #11
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Blowing the lines out makes sense if you don't put antifreeze in your water tanks. I put antifreeze in the lines from the pump to the outlets and blow out the pickup lines back to tanks.
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Old 12-10-2014, 01:54 PM   #12
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I read a lot about +/- of blowing out vs pink when I first started doing boats & RV's. The recommendation that mode the most sense to me (and my procedure now) is to hook up a compressor using a fitting in the hose inlet (I have switched to an air quick connect so I can do it single handed) open all the outlets to get MOST of the water out. I installed a bypass on the HWH so after draining it I bypass before pinking. I usually allow a small amt pf pink into the HWH just to protect the outlet fitting. I then pink via 3 way valve installed on inlet to the FW pump.
Why this makes sense to me is...
By blowing down first you don't have to guess if you've ran enough pink - w/ little / water to dilute when you see pink that's enough.
Rational to not just blow down (or blow down after pink) is that bacteria (& other STUFF) likes moist air but doesn't like submerged... if you blow down all the lines are damp and more likely to grow stuff you don't want all through the system.
Flushing the lines is the easy part by hooking up to shore power and letting outlets run. Tanks are more of a challenge but you don't need much pink in a tank that's well drained - only enough to protect the outlet connection. a couple of partial fills & drains will usually clear them up and I usually do a Clorox clean / flush of tank / lines each spring anyhow to start the season "fresh".
Just my methods & rational... everybody has their favorite and may ways to do it.
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:34 PM   #13
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Good morning,

Does anyone have any recommendations for someone in the Hampton Roads area that could assist me in winterizing our KK42? She is in the water at Salt Ponds Marina in Hampton.

I would like to do as much of it as possible myself, but would like some help with the engine and generator. This will be my first, and hopefully only, time doing this; so I want to be sure I do it correctly.

Thanks, Mike

Does your KK have a Seachest?
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:05 AM   #14
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Does your KK have a Seachest?

No it doesn't.


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Old 12-15-2014, 07:14 AM   #15
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I winterized the engine and genset this weekend. The engine was a piece of cake. The genset...not so much. Opening the stainer to pour in the af apparently caused it to lose suction. I ran it for a few minutes waiting to pour in the af but it was not drawing in anything. So I shut it down.

Thinking that the impeller was bad, I replaced it. But the old one looked fine, and it apparently was. It took me forever to get the air out of the line and get the genset to draw in the af. I hope someone can suggest an easy way to prime/purge air from the raw water loop before I try to start the genset in the spring!


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Old 12-15-2014, 09:43 PM   #16
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Winterizing Assistance

After the engines comes the water system and HVAC. Same as the engines you have to get the pink in the lines so start at the thru hull and enter the system water intake and substitute pink no-tox for water. For me it was very easy....block off the water intakes (plug the sea chest by pulling a swim float under sea chest to block it off) then pour the pink in the sea chest as each pump runs. For you, with no sea chest you may be able to pour pink in the sea strainer or couple the raw water hoses to a bucket of pink.

The freshwater system may be easier depending on how many water tanks you have. For me its one and its 480 gallons so I remove the intake hose and couple it to a 5 gallon bucket full of pink, then EVERY faucet and appliance, and head, must be systematically run (furthest away from pump first) until pink shows bright. I bought pink this year for $2 per gallon and used 35 gallons total. My water tank still has 350 gallons in it (port side) and I wont drain it until our nights and days stay below 32deg. I know will list when I drain the tank, (I mistakenly filled the 480 gallon diesel tank on the starboard side and my main 900 gallon tank was already 3/4 full) so I'm waiting until later to pump it overboard so I can conteniue to process my winter todo list while still level.

Don't forget any wash down pumps (fresh or raw water) hoses or outside showers and remember to pump out the holding tank and run pink through all the heads. I bypassed and drained our water heater and if you have an active water maker........>>>>>> read your manual.

I suggest if you have to cut or open any hoses insert the proper fitting so next year you can open a valve instead of busting your knuckles...

Last but not least enjoy..yes it is work but it can be a challenge which can also be fun!
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:53 PM   #17
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Don't forget windshield washers if you have them. I also pour a gallon or two in the bilge and run some thru the bilge pumps.
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Old 12-16-2014, 06:24 AM   #18
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Yes for sure add af to the bilges. I was worried about the bilge pump hoses too, but the shrink wrap guy said since the pumps don't have check valves water flows back into the bilge so no water should be trapped and freeze in the hoses.
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:53 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Spottsville View Post
After the engines comes the water system and HVAC. Same as the engines you have to get the pink in the lines so start at the thru hull and enter the system water intake and substitute pink no-tox for water. For me it was very easy....block off the water intakes (plug the sea chest by pulling a swim float under sea chest to block it off) then pour the pink in the sea chest as each pump runs. For you, with no sea chest you may be able to pour pink in the sea strainer or couple the raw water hoses to a bucket of pink.

The freshwater system may be easier depending on how many water tanks you have. For me its one and its 480 gallons so I remove the intake hose and couple it to a 5 gallon bucket full of pink, then EVERY faucet and appliance, and head, must be systematically run (furthest away from pump first) until pink shows bright. I bought pink this year for $2 per gallon and used 35 gallons total. My water tank still has 350 gallons in it (port side) and I wont drain it until our nights and days stay below 32deg. I know will list when I drain the tank, (I mistakenly filled the 480 gallon diesel tank on the starboard side and my main 900 gallon tank was already 3/4 full) so I'm waiting until later to pump it overboard so I can conteniue to process my winter todo list while still level.

Don't forget any wash down pumps (fresh or raw water) hoses or outside showers and remember to pump out the holding tank and run pink through all the heads. I bypassed and drained our water heater and if you have an active water maker........>>>>>> read your manual.

I suggest if you have to cut or open any hoses insert the proper fitting so next year you can open a valve instead of busting your knuckles...

Last but not least enjoy..yes it is work but it can be a challenge which can also be fun!

Yes...water and HVAC this weekend. I've already done the raw water wash down and forward bilge. I also plan to bypass and drain water heater before doing the rest of the fresh water system...less water tanks.

Thanks for all the advice!


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Old 12-16-2014, 09:18 PM   #20
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I would recommend buying an antifreeze tester to make sure the fresh water radiators of the engine and Genset are at minus 20 or so. It doesn't matter if you flush the seawater side, if the interior loop isn't protected.

I have not found a tester to test the 'pink rv stuff' for freeze protection. It is not glycol based. BUT, it is really cheap. So, in My opinion, more is better. Err on the side of caution.

I use my pink stuff to flush the fresh water system. I catch ALL of it after I have blown the lines out with compressed air. Then I reuse the 'used' stuff as an initial flush for the AC system. Then flush the AC system with a gallon of new pink. I catch the last gallon of pink from the AC and use it in the generator. Then flush with another gallon in the Generator. Catch the last gallon and use it to flush the Engine. Then use 3 gallons to flush the engine until all the water coming out the exhaust is pink.

My sea strainers have removable lid. These are conveniently just oversized to use 12 wraps of electrical tape around the threads of the bottle, and a quick tip over and I can step on the bottle and give a 'power assist' to the pink stuff on its way.

BTW, The earlier question about 'sea chests' refers to a valve on the water intake hose. If you really don't have a valve on EACH and EVERY seawater intake hose (below the waterline) you should have them installed.

Speaking as an ex yachtyard worker, many (I mean MANY sinking, swamping, or near misses) are caused by below the waterline intakes that (even WITH valves) are not shut, when the boat is not in use. This is a FATAL mistake made by a majority of boat owners who routinely leave underwater valves open. This is not just a idle topic, but valves that are not used regularly often get seized up, and need large efforts (or shipyard haulhouts) to make them right (loosening up or replacing)

If you do have the valves installed, use them. Use them regularly. They make flushing easier, and allow you to use the valve to force the pink stuff in the right direction. The only thing to remember, is to open the valves once you are done, to let the water drain out, so nothing freezes in the valve. Just make sure you close them, so critters dont crawl in and make a nest. That's a 'itch' to clean out next spring.
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