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Old 10-17-2012, 09:52 AM   #21
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Maybe a separate water tank?
That's a good idea, Al. I had not thought of that. Maybe a rubber flexible water tank for each head would do the trick. It shouldn't take but about a quart per flush. Easy to install.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:04 AM   #22
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Funny... But PO's were smokers.
Ammonia, right out of the container, poured on a rag is good for getting nicotine stains off surfaces where it can be used without harm. I know this from playing music in smoky bars years ago.

I bought an old Singer sewing machine from ebay to sew canvas and it was brown with cigarette residue. I cleaned it up with ammonia.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:20 AM   #23
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............. If I feel really ambitious, I may even convert to fresh water for the head... any recommendations on a good source for detailed instructions on backflow preventers, anti-siphon needs, etc if I tackle this? We never use the on-board water for drinking, but still want to be sure I am not about to contaminate it. Maybe a separate water tank?
DO NOT try to convert a raw water flush head to a potable water flush head. There is too much risk of a crossconnection and contaminating the potable water system. Even if you never use the on-board water for drinking, you can't be sure that someone will forget and do so. Or you might use it for cooking, washing hands or dishes, or showering. Backflow preventers, check valves, etc. are not good enough.

If you want to install a seperate water tank just for the head, that's fine as long as there are no connections between the two systems.

You can, of course, just fill a container from the potable water system and pour it into the head for flushing or just use the shower hose if you have one.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:45 PM   #24
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My winter improvement project is to locate a new owner for Budds' Outlet. That's the best improvement I think I can make for her this winter.
What are you looking for in your next boat?
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:39 PM   #25
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DO NOT try to convert a raw water flush head to a potable water flush head. There is too much risk of a crossconnection and contaminating the potable water system. Even if you never use the on-board water for drinking, you can't be sure that someone will forget and do so. Or you might use it for cooking, washing hands or dishes, or showering. Backflow preventers, check valves, etc. are not good enough.
Yes it can be done. I installed a new freshwater head in my aft "bathroom" and used all the components that came with the Raritan Sea Era unit per their install manual. I then converted the forward head using the same components and instructions.
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:31 PM   #26
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Perhaps not appropriate for the grand kids....

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Old 10-18-2012, 08:59 PM   #27
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Perhaps not appropriate for the grand kids....

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Priceless, Captrigney. Thanks for posting. Do you know where I can get one of those signs?
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:09 PM   #28
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Yes it can be done. I installed a new freshwater head in my aft "bathroom" and used all the components that came with the Raritan Sea Era unit per their install manual. I then converted the forward head using the same components and instructions.
Exactly...

The only part added to most of these toilets to prevent contamination is a vacuum breaker where the fresh water enters the bowl. I searched dozens of models and parts lists...it's not rocket science to convert one, but some seem to think so.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:05 PM   #29
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Edelweiss, Thanks for the crab season heads up
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:07 AM   #30
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What are you looking for in your next boat?
We are looking for a 40'ish footer, semi-displacement aft cabin cruiser. Quite a step up in cruising comfort and a change of pace for us. I think I'll enjoy the view at a slower speed.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:21 AM   #31
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I'll be installing a toilet rebuild kit as well, and finally taking the time to really clean and paint the engine room.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:38 AM   #32
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We are looking for a 40'ish footer, semi-displacement aft cabin cruiser. Quite a step up in cruising comfort and a change of pace for us. I think I'll enjoy the view at a slower speed.
I dunno...... Once one is used to going fast it's reeeeaaaaalllly boring to have to go slow. Imagine this scenario---- you are heading for Fossil Bay on Sucia for a long weekend. There are two docks and perhaps fifteen mooring buoys. It's really convenient to use a dock or a mooring buoy in there as opposed to anchoring. You know it's a popular spot but you think you might have a chance.

But as you creep toward Sucia you see other, faster boats headed the same way. And you KNOW the place is filling up and that last guy you see heading toward the bay at twice your speed is going to snag the last buoy. And there's nothing you can do about it but plod along at 8 knots or so and watch.

See, when we were going to Sucia a lot we had an ace up our sleeve. We usually joined up with Carey over there since we were all good friends with the family who used to live there. Back then--- through the 2000s--- fuel wasn't so expensive so Carey ran his lobsterboat at 15 knots. So he'd get there WAY before us and secure a good spot at the dock. So it didn't matter how slow we were or how many boats got to the bay before we did, we knew we could raft to them if all the dock space and buoys were taken.

Slow sucks.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:41 AM   #33
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Edelweiss, Thanks for the crab season heads up
-------------------------------
You are welcome, but be sure and check the WDFW website, it's not in all areas.

Waters reopening to sport crabbing Oct. 13 at 8 a.m. include marine areas 4 (Neah Bay), 5 (Sekiu), 6 (eastern Strait of Juan de Fuca), 7 (San Juan Islands), 8-1 (Deception Pass, Hope Island, and Skagit Bay), 8-2 (Port Susan and Port Gardner), 9 (Admiralty Inlet), 12 (Hood Canal), and 13 (South Puget Sound).

In each area, crabbing will be allowed seven days a week through Dec. 31.


Sport crabbing will not reopen this year in marine areas 10 (Seattle/Bremerton Area) and 11 (Tacoma-Vashon Island). The annual quotas in those areas were reached during the summer fishery
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:08 AM   #34
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"It's really convenient to use a dock or a mooring buoy in there as opposed to anchoring."

How? Why? Is it different from normal anchoring? Done every night?

Is there a requirement too pay $20 to $150 for a O'nite stop?
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:30 PM   #35
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"It's really convenient to use a dock or a mooring buoy in there as opposed to anchoring."

How? Why? Is it different from normal anchoring? Done every night?

Is there a requirement too pay $20 to $150 for a O'nite stop?
The bay is narrow with two long rows of mooring buoys down about half its length. When the buoys are all taken there is not a lot of room left for anchoring unless one goes out beyond the rows of buoys. Boats do anchor in here--- the holding is quite good--- but unless the bay is fairly empty of boats one is forced to use a very short scope. And if the wind picks up--- which it can and does--- dragging is a not-uncommon occurrence because the anchored boats are on such short scope. Like two and three to one judging by amount of rode they let out.

A marine park mooring buoy is (I think) $10 a night (no charge for day use). The docks used to be $15 a night but due to the state being broke like every other state I believe the dock fee is now based on boat length with a minimum charge.

You can also buy an annual marine park pass which for a 36' boat is about $120. We usually do this and if one uses the marine parks fairly frequently throughout the year as we used to do it doesn't take too many two and three night stays at a dock or on a buoy to pay for the pass at which point the rest of one's stays are free.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:53 PM   #36
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Just finishing up one of my winter projects. This is a SIG diesel stove that is going to be a great addition to the boat. There is 1/4" Hardi backerboard with a 1/2" air space between it and the wall, than tile over that. We had a fuel tank under the seating in the wheel house that had never been used so I plumbed into that, and since it is about two feet higher than the stove, gravity feeds the fuel. There is a small 12 volt fan under the heater to help with the draft if needed. So far it is really working great. Just can't get it turned down enough right now because it has been so mild outside. The real test will be when the temperature drops down in the teens. Now I can get back to the engine room refurbish.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:15 PM   #37
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Since our 2 weeks in the yard for bottom paint has turned into 6-8 weeks for some blister repair...our winter projects have gotten moved into what should be fall gunkholing.

This is what the list looks like now:
**Refinish salon floors. We brought home all of the engine room hatches to refinish here at home. Then we will just have the perimeter to do "on" the boat.
**Replace bathroom sink and countertop. I made a cardboard template today. We're thinking solid surface corian from Lowes with the sink bowl and counter all one piece.
**Rebuild salon "sofa". We bought a 99.00 Target futon for a salon sofa. It's perfect for the space, except it's uncomfortable and too short. So I'm going to reupholster and make it comfy, and we're going to raise it a few inches and put drawers under it for more storage.
**Hopefully we'll have time to remove the old yellow walls and replace those, as well as move the towel cabinet and get some mirrors that normal size people can see in. I can use all of them. Tom can only see from his bellybutton.
**New carpet for the stateroom. Easy Breezy.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:13 PM   #38
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Finished my 6 month long pilothouse job with a new outer skin. Installed conduit with lots of wire and chases going everywhere before pouring the foam so shes ready to pull wires for any new electronics, lighting or whatever. Everything except solar panels will be moved to the mast. Did aftercooler, trans cooler and oil cooler. Now sealing deck and rebedding pulpit and fittings. Windows next, then in the Spring, maybe a new electronics suite. Money, money, money.
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:41 AM   #39
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This is a SIG diesel stove that is going to be a great addition to the boat.

You bet!,, your boat is fairly large so some added circulation might help.

The top of the furnace is warm enough to power one of those fans that run on heat.

Also finding a pot that will fit on the top is great for slow cooking or ???

Our Dickinson at low keeps about 200F , so hot water for beverages is always ready.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:59 AM   #40
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Hey Edelweiss, how do you keep from freezing up during a northeaster? I'm nervous this year about the plumbing on the new boat. Old boat everything was below waterline and easy to bleed lines to sink.
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