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Old 12-15-2012, 01:13 PM   #21
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Yep...not all the same but at 1/2 to 1/3 the price...I can replace them in minutes and still come out ahead. Yes some frames may need a bit'o sanding and touchup...but I bet I only replace a few over the next 30 years.

If I was a true blue water cruiser...yeah I would have gone more durable/stronger, etc....but a ditch sailor with a short crossing every once and awhile...can't imagine more expensive windows would be any better considering the average price difference.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:02 AM   #22
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can't imagine more expensive windows would be any better considering the average price difference.

The problem is more expensive windows would only be worthwhile in a PH that can stand up to what the new windows are suitable for.
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:11 PM   #23
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Given my inability to post something from another source, the following was received from Steve D'Antonio, Passage Maker. Dec 16 at 0959

Thanks for your note and comments. Sliding windows have been the bane of boat owners virtually since they were first introduced, with wood frames. When aluminum frame windows were introduced, the challenges remained, albeit for different reasons.

Aluminum, as I've written on many occasions, is a wonderfully versatile maetal that lends itself well so so many onboaard structures. It does, however, have some weaknesses, chief among these is a type of corrosion knon as puoltice. Poultice corrosion occurs when aluminum remains wet and starved of ozxygen. The tracks or grooves in which your, and many other, windows slide are the ideal breeding ground for this phenomenon. The mechansim by which this occurs is twofold. One, the fuzzy weather strip material that's used in most aluminum windows is hygroscopic, it holds water, against the aluminum, that ultimately becomes stagnant, which in turn fosters the corrosion. Two, the byproduct of this corrosion, aluminum oxide crystals (it looks like greezer-burned vanilla ice cream) tends to clog the already small window track drains, whihch exacerbated the problem by retaining still more water. As an added bonus, when the drains clog water overflows the tracts and ofter runs inboard, into the boat.

Preventing the problem involves routinely washing out the tracks with fresh water and making certain drains are clear. If the windows have become lodged in the tracks, as you have, freeing them can be a challenging. Dissolving or loosening years' worth of aluminum oxide can be difficult. Initially, I'd try a penetrating solvent such as PB Blaster. Spray it into the tracks and let it remain for a few hours. If that doesn't work, you may wish to try something more agressive. Contact Trac Ecological, they offer a line of products designed to clean and descale aluminum and oather metals used in marine cooling systems. The my be applicable for this application as well. www.trac-online.com Once the windows are free, you may find the tracks do not need to be replaced. If they do require replacement, the frames would need to be removed from teh cabin, tough to do without damaging them, disassembled and the bottam track protion replaced, a process that is typically economically infeasible. At that point, the only practical solution is complete window/frame replacement.

My comments: This reply took less than 24 hours: Not a very satisfactory answer to the issue, but Steve has, as others have found, articulated an issue which we all face. Being on fresh H20 has its merits, but like the wooden sailor's dry rot of any sort spells $$'s to resolve the problem. The only point I suppose is to undertake the washing with the products suggested, but the short and long of it is that window function as well as water mark noting becomes a first IA when viewing a boat for potential purchase. Soldier on and solve the problem, $$ in hand, as well as labor.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:58 PM   #24
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oceandynamics.com

Located in Miami. My experience with them was several years ago. They were great to work with. Not cheap, but a very good product.
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:49 PM   #25
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Window tracks are an issue for some boats that take a lot of spray along the main cabin...I elected to do away with sliding widows and just go with top hinged (center front/and two rear main cabin)...I figure the doors slide open and I'm toying with the idea of removing the door windows and have them like storm door windows that you can remove and replace with screens. All this is because I know I'll want airflow..but the way I see it at the dock fans create airflow and at anchor the top hinged windows will be in line with the airflow.

The advantage of doing away with sliders in the main salon is now there's no vertical in the middle and the view is OUTSTANDING now (plus the windows are a smidge bigger so it's really nice)
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:02 PM   #26
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For a process of replacing the channel in your frames, look at the Lord Nelson Tug site ( lnvt.org. I think). You will find a very thorough photo blog on how window channels were replaced on Nellie D hull #63. Depending on your type of windows, you might do something similar.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:28 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
Close by to you...

Wynne Enterprises Inc.
So the process was
  1. Size your windows and send this information to Wynne.
  2. Get quoted. Pay 100% up front or partial until job finished?
  3. How long does it take to get windows after quote?
  4. Do they have a busy season/slack season?
What role does the temperature and humidity play when you plan to install the windows? Do you try for cool and dry? Do you do it on the hard on in the slip?


Thanks!
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:54 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
So the process was
  1. Size your windows and send this information to Wynne.
  2. Get quoted. Pay 100% up front or partial until job finished?
  3. How long does it take to get windows after quote?
  4. Do they have a busy season/slack season?
What role does the temperature and humidity play when you plan to install the windows? Do you try for cool and dry? Do you do it on the hard on in the slip?


Thanks!
The sales guys were super...they are primarily a RV supplier so they are huge and roll non-stop all year.

I measured but being a live aboard, I estimated instead of taking out the windows and measuring the actual openings...kinda of a mistake but I'm pretty handy with glass work...plus I had to radius in all the corners anyway as I went with radius windows as I think they look better and are stronger/less prone to leaks.

I paid up front...I forget their plan if it's flexible...everything including shipping crate was first rate.

Went with painted instead of powder coating...glad I did as they always get dinged/scratched and the paint after a year shows no signs of bubbling where powder coating usually shows damage pretty quickly.


I think it was about 3 weeks from order to delivery....maybe a tad longer but the freight travel time was about 10 days from factory to where I am in Jersey.

I did it in the water..no difference for where to do it though..just living aboard and ripping out widows, then glassing and grinding did create a pretty big issue for my liveaboard girlfriend.... I would do 2-3 windows at a time to keep the glassing in the radius corners flowing as I ripped out the next set of windows which would take the better part of a day to do it without just using a sledgehammer and making a huge mess...
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:03 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
The sales guys were super...they are primarily a RV supplier so they are huge and roll non-stop all year.

I did it in the water..no difference for where to do it though..just living aboard and ripping out widows, then glassing and grinding did create a pretty big issue for my liveaboard girlfriend.... I would do 2-3 windows at a time to keep the glassing in the radius corners flowing as I ripped out the next set of windows which would take the better part of a day to do it without just using a sledgehammer and making a huge mess...
Man, that's good to know. Did you do any sliders? How did they work out? Are the windows thicker/thinner than regular boat windows?

Thanks for your response! I'm slowly making a plan.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:27 AM   #30
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Man, that's good to know. Did you do any sliders? How did they work out? Are the windows thicker/thinner than regular boat windows?

Thanks for your response! I'm slowly making a plan.
I put non opening windows in the main salon an it really opened it up like picture windows not having the vertical bars in them, put 2 aft/1 forward top hinged in the main salon and then the ones in the aft cabin/aft head are sliders (would have preferred top hinge but they woud have opened into the walkaround decks.

Suprising how much costlier the top hinged windows were.

Used non opening in the main salon sides as I figured the 2 doors could (and do) provide cross ventilation when truly needed .

I just have to make better screens for the doors as well as for the top hinged.....screens seem to be Wynne's weak point but are just fine on the sliders.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:01 AM   #31
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Another problem arund here is that the window frame weep holes or slits get plugged with crud and don't drain so the channel fills up and water gets on the inside.
I had some canvas snap on flap covers made and leave them on the aft cabin windows while not out on the water.
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