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Old 04-03-2018, 10:39 AM   #1
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Willard cap rail caulking question

I have a friend that owns a Willard 30 that asked me to help him re-caulk his cap rail. I said I would find out what people recommend to use on this site. He plans to re-bed the hand rail stantions as well with butyl tape.

So..should he use sikaflex or??? Is there a flexible tip type applicator where he can get under places where a regular caulk gun will not fit?
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:14 PM   #2
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I use Sika for that. However they recommend using their primer on the wood. Is the wood bare or varnished? I had my teak down to bare wood and primed it before I caulked. Bad news about the primer was it costs about $80 per can and has to be used within a yaer. Good news is that the caulk seems to be adhering very well so I guess it was worth it.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:08 PM   #3
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Thanks Comodave! I believe it is bare wood but not sure. I will pass this on to my friend.
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Old 04-03-2018, 04:04 PM   #4
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Hi Keith,
We used Sicaflex under the stanchion bases, cleats ect. My anchor winch/bow cleat base (about 2’x2.5’) uses Dolphinite. Very “goey” stuff but comes right up for maint or repair. The caulcking around the bronze bow piece and the fwd end of the cap rail got Sicaflex too. All the Sicaflex has been in place over 10 years. Black
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Old 04-03-2018, 07:56 PM   #5
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The stanchion bases on mine are two wood screws and one machine screw with washer and nut on each base. It makes the rebidding a real PITA since you have to access the nut from below on every stanchion.... His may not be done that way, just a note on how it might have been done when built.
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Old 04-03-2018, 07:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKDoug View Post
The stanchion bases on mine are two wood screws and one machine screw with washer and nut on each base. It makes the rebidding a real PITA since you have to access the nut from below on every stanchion.... His may not be done that way, just a note on how it might have been done when built.


It might be a PITA to do, but that nut and washer also likely makes it a lot stronger.
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Old 04-03-2018, 08:09 PM   #7
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True story, but it makes it one of those jobs you wait to do until something leaks. They also bedded it with something like Sikaflex and it's all over the machine screws and nuts.
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Old 04-03-2018, 08:55 PM   #8
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The stanchions on his boat are lag bolted and not threaded so removal and reinstall “should” be reasonable to do. He is leaning towards butyl tape for rebedding them and sika flex for the cap rail caulking.
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Old 04-03-2018, 09:44 PM   #9
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I am a big proponent of butyl, but if they are just lagged you may have trouble getting enough pressure on the butyl to squeeze it enough. Be careful of over tightening the lags and stripping out the wood.
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Old 04-03-2018, 09:52 PM   #10
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Thanks Comodave, good point to ponded! I’ll let him know
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Old 04-03-2018, 10:19 PM   #11
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Mine are machine threaded straight slot and phillips (mixed) screws, SS. The machine screw goes through teak and the FG flange under the cap rail. There may be a double flange .. one for the outer hull and one for the cockpit panel. I haven’t had the cap rail up so don’t know. I do know, however that I was able to put a lot of torque to the screws and the screws bottomed out and held real tight. I suspect Willard decided the access to the possible back up nuts was more problematic than using machine screwthreads in a material not usually used for machine threads w a long screw thereby having good holding power and easy install and removal. We just zipped them out w an appropriate bit in a drill motor and zipped them back in. It worked fine for us but it’s no guarantee they did it that way on the next boat. Ours is a 74.

SikaFlex 291 is good for this jop I think. It’s called a “bedding compound” and that’s exactly what’s going on here.
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Old 04-03-2018, 10:34 PM   #12
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Thanks Eric. The one my friend owns is the one I use to own and is a 1977.it sounds similar in build to yours except for the screws, his is lag screws/bolts. I am helping gather info for him so he can do this when he gets hauled out soon to repower with a Beta engine and new transmission.
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:33 PM   #13
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OK good Keith.
I know that boat (of course) as it was moored on the same float as we were.
I’m amazed the stanchions were secured w lag screws. That’s a very coarse thread. Pre-drilled holes would need to be very close to the same od as the lag threads. I suspect the screws are actually machine threads thinking lag threads wouldn’t be appropriate. He may be getting the terms lag screw and machine screw mixed up. With either thread putting the same thread back into the holes is very important.
Either fastener described is using a machine screw or lag screw for a self tapping screw. If the screws go back it hard use soap on the threads. Drag the screw across a bar of soap (Irish Spring is best) for best results. A little saop makes a good lubricant. I S is attempted humor.

Keith in pos#1 what is meant by “under places”?
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:40 PM   #14
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Thanks Eric, I will make sure Joe sees all of these posts so he can decide what and how he wants to do it.
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:44 PM   #15
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Eric, the under places is on the inside of the cap rail in the “walk around” section of his boat there is not enough room to stick a long caulking gun and get a good bead. He was asking about a flexible tip like on a grease gun or even an air assisted caulk gun to get a good bead on the bottom side of the cap rail in those areas.
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