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Old 12-03-2015, 07:24 AM   #21
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If the spots are small, try a magic eraser. I have pretty good success with them.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:24 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar View Post
My favorite product for removing rust stains is Whink. The active ingredient is hydrofloric acid.
HopCar

Your comment re: HF caught my eye... I've had some dealings w/ HF and couldn't believe it was an ingredient of Whink
Thought maybe it was Hydrochloric but the MSDS doesn't include that...???

Hydrogen fluoride gas is an acute poison that may immediately and permanently damage lungs and the corneas of the eyes.
Aqueous hydrofluoric acid is a contact-poison with the potential for deep, initially painless burns and ensuing tissue death.
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:20 AM   #23
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Now, 6 months later, I still have not finished the clean up!!
As a guy who will have a boat within the next year and will do all the mods and maintenance can I ask how you do go about grinding or cutting metal on a boat... any tips???



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Dude, we've all done it, once. You won't do it again. In case nobody told you, never bring steel wool on a boat. If you really need to scrub something, buy bronze wool from your neighborhood marine store.
Can I ask why, what happens with it....??

I've been reading everything I can about boat upkeep but you never see tips like this one for us newbies... anyone know of a thread or list of useful do's and don'ts when working on boats....???

Thanks
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:49 AM   #24
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Bacchus, I could have sworn that hydrofloric acid was in Whink. I wonder if they changed the formula? I'll see if I have an old bottle kicking around.

Pete, steel wool sheds small slivers of steel when you use it. They quickly turn into rust stains.
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:10 AM   #25
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Greetings,
Mr. H. Most if not all metals outside of your ER are non ferrous. The only ferrous ones outside the ER I can immediately think of are anchors (nope I did NOT say the "a" word) and chain rode.
IF it becomes necessary to work on ferrous metals (cutting/grinding) do so off the boat if at all possible. Regarding another "tip" and it's MY opinion here...NEVER use RTV silicone sealant or ANY silicone product aboard.
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:43 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar View Post
Pete, steel wool sheds small slivers of steel when you use it. They quickly turn into rust stains.
I guessed something similar, just wanted to make sure....Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Regarding another "tip" and it's MY opinion here...NEVER use RTV silicone sealant or ANY silicone product aboard.
Why not my friend...?? and what do I used instead, Sikaflex??
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:34 AM   #27
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I don't permit silicone on my boat.
Each boat I have owned has been treated by its PO to silicone used as a sealant. It goes on easily, cleans up easily looks good for a short while, then lifts from whatever surface you NEED it to adhere to, but not completely. It then allows water to enter the very crevice or opening you wanted to seal, and through capillary action, encourages the water to remain, doing as much damage or more than you ever thought possible. hen it is almost impossible to get it all off, so that a true sealant can be used.

For applications requiring a clear sealant, I now use Lexel. For opaque, Sikaflex or 3M.
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