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Old 05-06-2015, 07:35 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
A question for the group: We have exactly the same stuffing box as shown my Mr. 99 in post #14. In my haste to eliminate drips while running I overtightened my stuffing box. One heated up to about 150 degrees F and was "steaming" I backed off the flange causing both a cool down and a constant drip to be able to continue running. So, do I re-tighten to minimize/stop the dripping or have I compromised the packing material to the point where I will have to re-pack? I'm not able to leave the dock at the moment but don't want to leave the drip.
Thanks
Really hard to say.

What type of packing is in the tube?

I have seen where the standard Teflon impregnated stuff looked burnt and glazed like glass....which was leaking and tightening didnt help.

I have never gotten one hot enough to steam though.

Just saw your last post...based on rereading gfo packing info...you should be ok.....but like all risk assessments...what would you have to do to fix, where would you be, etc...etc...

Or is it just better to redo it now?
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Old 05-06-2015, 04:43 PM   #22
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Mr RT, I have a similar problem in that I can't get a normal drip without over-tightening, which I have avoided. In my case, shaft misalignment is an issue. Also, I think the packing glands were over tightened by a PO and it scored the shafts. I run them deliberately loose and over-cool at this point, putting up with the extra water in the bilge. I'm worried that the scoring will prevent GFO from ever working as it should once the shafts are aligned properly.

Have you verified that you're using the right thickness of packing?

Also, that the shafts are centered in the logs? One of mine is so off-center that I could probably fit 5/8" packing on one side and 1/4" on the other. I'm using the 3/8" that's spec'd and it leaks like a mother.

Good luck and I'd appreciate knowing how it turns out for you.
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Old 05-06-2015, 05:03 PM   #23
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Greetings,
Mr. 99. Ahhh....Alignment. I DO have a vibration at higher RPM and I just noticed this afternoon that at LEAST one of my engine mount studs nuts is loose. The last time the packing was done, the shaft seemed to be centered in the stuffing box and GFO was used. Prior to heading south this spring I noticed, what I took to be, excess drippage and subsequently adjusted the stuffing boxes en route, notified the Admiral and asked her to "shoot" the temperatures (twins) during her regular ER walk through. Within 2-3 hours, she reported elevated temperatures, on the stb'd side primarily, and I immediatly loosened off the adjustment nuts and allowed a fair drip to develop. So as to shaft scoring? Who knows but it couldn't have run "hot" for much more than 3 hours or so.
As a result of all of the valuable input, my plan of attack is to have the engines aligned and then inspect the stuffing material/shafts. I will effect a report when the work is completed and a sea trial is done. Thanks all. Oh, don't hesitate to offer other comments.
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Old 05-06-2015, 05:09 PM   #24
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I will effect a report when the work is completed and a sea trial is done. Thanks all. Oh, don't hesitate to offer other comments.
I'll do the same. I'm having all of this work done in the next couple weeks (including rudder bearings/packing). Good luck!
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Old 05-06-2015, 07:53 PM   #25
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Greetings,
Mr. 99. Ahhh....Alignment. I DO have a vibration at higher RPM and I just noticed this afternoon that at LEAST one of my engine mount studs nuts is loose. The last time the packing was done, the shaft seemed to be centered in the stuffing box and GFO was used. Prior to heading south this spring I noticed, what I took to be, excess drippage and subsequently adjusted the stuffing boxes en route, notified the Admiral and asked her to "shoot" the temperatures (twins) during her regular ER walk through. Within 2-3 hours, she reported elevated temperatures, on the stb'd side primarily, and I immediatly loosened off the adjustment nuts and allowed a fair drip to develop. So as to shaft scoring? Who knows but it couldn't have run "hot" for much more than 3 hours or so.
As a result of all of the valuable input, my plan of attack is to have the engines aligned and then inspect the stuffing material/shafts. I will effect a report when the work is completed and a sea trial is done. Thanks all. Oh, don't hesitate to offer other comments.
RT,
You might also want to check that your raw water supply is not clogged.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:17 PM   #26
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Is there a possibility of a bend in the propshaft? One of mine was chewing out packing fast and leaking, trickling actually, the other was fine 5 years after repack. Wore out the rear gearbox oil seal prematurely that side too. I learned of a mooring being picked up on that shaft by a PO, with nasty results, took advice, sure enough the shaft was bent.
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:11 PM   #27
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Greetings,
Mr. R2G. Wow, the water feed had completely slipped my mind-Thanks!
Mr. BK. I don't think I have a bent shaft although it IS possible given that I do have a vibration at speed. I had assumed engine misalignment but it could be the shaft. I'll have that checked next haul out. I DO know I've got a shaft coupling on each shaft about 4' forward of the cutlass bearing. Used to know what it is called but forget. In other words I have a 2 piece shaft. Thanks.
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:21 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. 99. Ahhh....Alignment. I DO have a vibration at higher RPM and I just noticed this afternoon that at LEAST one of my engine mount studs nuts is loose. The last time the packing was done, the shaft seemed to be centered in the stuffing box and GFO was used. Prior to heading south this spring I noticed, what I took to be, excess drippage and subsequently adjusted the stuffing boxes en route, notified the Admiral and asked her to "shoot" the temperatures (twins) during her regular ER walk through. Within 2-3 hours, she reported elevated temperatures, on the stb'd side primarily, and I immediatly loosened off the adjustment nuts and allowed a fair drip to develop. So as to shaft scoring? Who knows but it couldn't have run "hot" for much more than 3 hours or so.
As a result of all of the valuable input, my plan of attack is to have the engines aligned and then inspect the stuffing material/shafts. I will effect a report when the work is completed and a sea trial is done. Thanks all. Oh, don't hesitate to offer other comments.
RT--Just went through this, noticed vibration at higher rpm's, asked my boatyard to check alignment etc. Told me everything looked good--maybe start with checking prop. Prop is off a little, ok true it. $1000. NEVER AGAIN WITH THESE CLOWNS!! Go out on two week trip; guess what.... shaft breaks inside coupling! Boat US rocks!! 5 hour tow from Patos Island to Anacortes, $1600 tow bill- no cost to me- cant say enough about this service!
Back to subject, my yard missed that the aft starboard engine mount lower nut had backed off and was out 1/2". I dont think this had just happened but they should have noticed it! No excuse for me not seeing myself but this boat was new to me and I had limited time to fix everything else,figure out how everything worked, etc etc.
That being said, the alignment is crucial. Next-- the solid coupling. there was a machined keyway slot, a roll pin bore, and two bores (dimples?) for the lock bolts, basically on the same plane (of weakness) On a 1 1/2" shaft diameter Im guessing there was probably 1/2 the meat that should have been there.
RT If your doing all this other work, take a look at your engine coupling at the same time especially if your boat / shaft/ coupling is 35 years old.
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:05 AM   #29
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I DO know I've got a shaft coupling on each shaft about 4' forward of the cutlass bearing. Used to know what it is called but forget. In other words I have a 2 piece shaft. Thanks.
Maybe a jack shaft? My boat had Velvet drives originally. When one bit the bullet, it was replaced with a Twin Disc that has a shorter housing. To keep the same prop shaft, it was necessary to fill the "gap" with a jackshaft and an additional coupling. The engine also had to be raised 2 inches with spacers under the mounts.
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Old 05-07-2015, 01:32 AM   #30
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Greetings,
Mr. R2G. Wow, the water feed had completely slipped my mind-Thanks!
Mr. BK. I don't think I have a bent shaft although it IS possible given that I do have a vibration at speed. I had assumed engine misalignment but it could be the shaft. I'll have that checked next haul out.
Last thing a guy wants is a bent shaft.
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:48 AM   #31
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what type of shaft seal / stuffing box is this?

I was having trouble getting my stuffing box to drip enough and now have some green goo coming out between the shaft and the nut. Have I overheated the seal too much? I finally got it dripping Ok but wondering if I've killed the seal now.
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Old 05-07-2015, 03:37 PM   #32
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I was having trouble getting my stuffing box to drip enough and now have some green goo coming out between the shaft and the nut. Have I overheated the seal too much? I finally got it dripping Ok but wondering if I've killed the seal now.
Did you pack the stuffing box yourself?

Green goo sounds like the green stuff box clay like packing you can get that is designed to run dry.
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Old 05-07-2015, 03:53 PM   #33
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On my boats I have always been able to adjust the packing for no real drip...

There is an ooze and if you put your finger right in the seam of the shaft and the nut while it is turning, and hold it there, it will just barely get moist..


I would guess faster turning and maybe larger shafts require more, but my last boat was a sportfish and had 1 1/2 inch shafts with 3208s turning 2600 regularly.
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:02 PM   #34
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I don't mind the dripping. The shower sump used to be right next to where the stuffing box is. I relocated it to under the stuffing box so I have a dry bilge now.
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:27 PM   #35
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I have the same packing glands as the picture in post 14. I packed them with GFO 2 years ago and they barely drip underway and a few minutes after stopping they do not drip at all. The interesting part is I did not have to tighten the gland much in the beginning to stop dripping and have not had to adjust them in two years and a couple of 100 mile trips.
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:35 PM   #36
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I didn't pack it myself. Had never done one before and the boat was in FL and I was in TX so I let the yard do it.

I asked them what type of packing they used but they can't remember. Had a regime change at the yard while my boat was there getting worked on so everything is a little screwed up. 😔

So the green goo might be OK? I had to really loosen up the nut for it to drip at all. I didn't know that some packings were designed to NOT drip-- I was trying to get 2-3 drips per minute.

But it shouldn't get 150 plus degrees, right?
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:58 PM   #37
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I didn't pack it myself. Had never done one before and the boat was in FL and I was in TX so I let the yard do it.

I asked them what type of packing they used but they can't remember. Had a regime change at the yard while my boat was there getting worked on so everything is a little screwed up. 😔

So the green goo might be OK? I had to really loosen up the nut for it to drip at all. I didn't know that some packings were designed to NOT drip-- I was trying to get 2-3 drips per minute.

But it shouldn't get 150 plus degrees, right?

You should be able to hold your hand on it comfortably.
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