What does this finish look like?

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Goose grease...Gluvit...


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I should elaborate a tad. Its Gluvit with brown tinting in it. It looked very much like Cetol when applied. I used the same thing on my main deck, but painted over it with some thick deck and porch paint and non skid. Here I plan to just varnish over the Gluvit.


After drying out for most of the summer, when the Sept rains began to fall I had a couple of leaks I didn't have before and after much horsing around trying to fix it, I decided Gluvit should be the final fix.
 
Looks pretty good but get some good varnish on it quickly. Gluvit has no UV protection and will fail pretty quickly when exposed to the Sun. Be sure to use a varnish with UV blockers.

A lot of people use epoxy under varnish. I kind of like the idea of using Gluvit epoxy as it’s supposed to be pretty flexible. Shouldn’t crack when the wood moves .
 
We didn't get any sun today, tomorrow is supposed to be decent though its sprinkling now! Have fresh varnish for it.
 
Well around here this time of year, you make hay when the sun shines, because it wont for very long.
 
Well around here this time of year, you make hay when the sun shines, because it wont for very long.

On a good day in September, the dew lifts by 10 on the sunny side, 2 PM on the shady side. If you wait for the shady side to dry, then varnish, the dew begins falling again by 3PM, so there is no time for the varnish to dry. On the sunny side, you can get a coat on if you are quick.
 
I have an old pickup truck with fiberglass rear fenders that are covered with spider cracks in the gel coat. I was thinking of using some left over Interlux 2000 barrier coat, but this stuff looks promising. I wonder if it can be sprayed on, and if it can be overcoated with a hi-build primer while still tacky..the old thumb print test? The flexibility and crack filling characteristics are interesting.
 
I have an old pickup truck with fiberglass rear fenders that are covered with spider cracks in the gel coat. I was thinking of using some left over Interlux 2000 barrier coat, but this stuff looks promising. I wonder if it can be sprayed on, and if it can be overcoated with a hi-build primer while still tacky..the old thumb print test? The flexibility and crack filling characteristics are interesting.




Bedliner, the roll-on type. I'm only slightly kidding here. It does work good but can look bad to some people. My work truck might get a quicky sanding and bed liner spray job in gray, since the truck is almost gray anyway. It's started life as bright silver.



https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_...3012ac0e142cce4bc374a6dd190e2d&language=en_US
 
Interesting idea if I could get it to lay down fairly flat....would have to thin it I guess. I repainted the rest of the truck in Eastwood semi-gloss (hot rod) black last Fall, and would like the rear fenders to match. If I can lay bed liner down without the roughness, and then hit it with high build primer I might get the flat surface I'm after along with filling the cracks. Think I'll give that a shot. By the way, the inside of the bed was done with Raptor bed liner. Thanks for the idea.
 
I have an old pickup truck with fiberglass rear fenders that are covered with spider cracks in the gel coat. I was thinking of using some left over Interlux 2000 barrier coat, but this stuff looks promising. I wonder if it can be sprayed on, and if it can be overcoated with a hi-build primer while still tacky..the old thumb print test? The flexibility and crack filling characteristics are interesting.

Sure it could be used.
Something just as good and cheaper, Minwax gloss polyurethane. It will harden and adhere the crazing together as a glue. I used this on my 1970 thin fiberglass over wood which had developed crazing and it had after every paint coat, cracked the paint surface. So i sanded it down good and clean to the glass, and coated 2 coats of minwax gloss polyurethane. light sand again, then primer and paint, and it has not cracked again through the paint, not in over a year. This fiberglass was originally laid down in 1970.

It will need a sealer if you were to put an automotive paint on top. And I am sure there are some other epoxy sealer undercoats that would work better since why pay extra as in having to seal one coating to another. But it did work well on my boat for my situation. My only other choice maybe lay on a coat of epoxy, so I went cheaper. Gloss Polyurethane dries hard and strong, and it is also used for motor winding dips.
 

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Got two coats of varnish on just before the rains hit last night. Didn't go flat, looks good.
 
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