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Old 09-07-2017, 09:19 PM   #1
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Varnish Maintenance

After 3 years it's time for some varnish maintenance. We hit the aft sections of cap rail with 220 grit today and the plan is to apply two or three maintenance coats . The weather is going to be just right for next few days . We are just going to do sections at a time .
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Old 09-07-2017, 09:24 PM   #2
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Using Epifanes high gloss .
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:11 PM   #3
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If I had an admiral with Joy's brush talents, I'd be doing more varnishing, too!

I know I should be working on it more, but playing onboard is sooo much more fun!
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:22 PM   #4
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I'm sure we won't get it all done, it's good cruising time around here also and William (knock on wood ) is running the best since we've owned him . It's taken 5 years but we've worked out a lot of bugs .
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:29 PM   #5
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My tactic is to have no exterior wood.
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:31 PM   #6
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My tactic is to have no exterior wood.
That's a good one to have . Maybe on our next boat .
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Old 09-07-2017, 11:19 PM   #7
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Even my Weber BBQ has wooden handles it gives it character it separates it from a garbage bin
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:14 AM   #8
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What is the epifanes going to top of?

I've got Cetol on my rails: would the epifanes stick to that?
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Old 09-08-2017, 08:38 AM   #9
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We are applying this on top of 3 year old Epifanes . We replaced all the the teak 4 years ago and Epifanes is the only varnish this teak has ever seen .
If the Cetol is in good shape and not flaking off I would think that if you scuff up the Cetol and apply Epifanes thinned for the first coat it would work . I would talk to the Epifanes guys first . Some finishes are not compatible with each other . If you're happy with the Cetol it might be best to stick with it .
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:40 AM   #10
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Oil based (Epifanes) should be compatible w any other oil based coating. I could assume Cetol is oil based but I really don't know what it is. But if it's well cured, sanded and cleaned there should be no problem w compatibility.
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Old 09-08-2017, 01:21 PM   #11
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Yes Al , I'm a lucky guy . Joy just sent me these pics from the boat today . She is laying on the varnish today while I'm at work . She says it goes on like butter .
I will do all the prep work , and keep those high quality brushes she likes clean as long as she wants to lay down the varnish .
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Old 09-08-2017, 03:29 PM   #12
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"She says it goes on like butter"

Nice thick varnish is a joy to put on.
A pain to take off.
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Old 09-08-2017, 03:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
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"She says it goes on like butter"

Nice thick varnish is a joy to put on.
A pain to take off.
Eric I think you know me better than that .If you put on right there's no reason to take it off .We thin Epifanes at least 20% before applying .
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:58 PM   #14
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Marty,
We thin McKloski's spar varnish only on prep coats.
We use turpentine and kerosene to thin first and second coats about 1/3 each. As we go less kerosene and more varnish. Kerosene is used only as a penetrant and before any build. Then less turp until we're at 100% varnish.

All varnish needs to come off after several years but ours is holding up really well in our covered moorage. Only problem now is dust.
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Old 09-08-2017, 09:17 PM   #15
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Marty,
We thin McKloski's spar varnish only on prep coats.
We use turpentine and kerosene to thin first and second coats about 1/3 each. As we go less kerosene and more varnish. Kerosene is used only as a penetrant and before any build. Then less turp until we're at 100% varnish.

All varnish needs to come off after several years but ours is holding up really well in our covered moorage. Only problem now is dust.
Yes we usually wind up at something close to 100% at the final coats but Epifanes is so thick especially if it's a can that has been opened a couple times.
If it gets too hard to flow I add a little Penatrol , maybe a capful. Then it glides. I also add Penatrol to oil base paint to help it flow.
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:52 PM   #16
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If you go to bare wood, 2 -3 coats of West Systems epoxy gets you to that deep varnished look faster. It still has to have a couple coats of varnish to protect the epoxy from UV. But it ends up looking like a dozen coats of varnish. I been doing it a long time and this is the fastest, long lasting way I found. But, I painted the varnish on most of the exterior on my boat.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:46 PM   #17
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Lepke,
How do you remove the epoxie when you want to wood down?
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:56 PM   #18
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San Juan Yachts was all into that epoxy first then varnish, until they had to strip off a bunch of epoxy that had yellowed because the owner didn't keep on top of the varnish. Then they quit using epoxy.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Lepke,
How do you remove the epoxie when you want to wood down?
It doesn't soak very deeply into the wood, and epoxy sands just like wood does. 80 grit on an orbital and its gone. I would put sanding Jatoba more difficult than sanding epoxy and I have done hours and hours of both. If you want to get maximum longevity out of varnish, create a base of epoxy over wood and varnish away as if the epoxy wasn't there.
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:24 PM   #20
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It doesn't soak very deeply into the wood, and epoxy sands just like wood does. 80 grit on an orbital and its gone. I would put sanding Jatoba more difficult than sanding epoxy and I have done hours and hours of both. If you want to get maximum longevity out of varnish, create a base of epoxy over wood and varnish away as if the epoxy wasn't there.
I wanted to try this from the beginning but just didn't know enough about it. It was new teak lumber that we had several man hours in making new rails,new doors,hatch and bulkhead.
I learned varnish and painting from my Dad. He always told me to keep same brand name products together. He was old school. I remember him saying varnishing raw lumber is like dating, you don't want to lay it on thick in the beginning, thin the first few coats to allow varnish to get to know the raw lumber then you can lay it on heavy. I miss him, he was a damn good painter. I still have some of his brushes. I do ok at varnish but nothing like him .
This is after 8 coats. Dad always said that magic doesn't happen until coat 13.
Most all of our rails are laminated up to get the curve and width. They would have looked better had I used a one piece rail. I had to laminate because it was the only way to make the yield work out on the lumber otherwise I would've had several short pieces and several scarf joints and a bunch of cutoff pieces that wouldn't have been good for anything. Now we have kind of a butcher block look.
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