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Old 02-29-2016, 02:06 PM   #1
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Varnish Job Question

I stripped, sanded, and started to varnish my steps this weekend (I know, slippery when wet). My question is did I mess up by not using a product to clean the teak? See the pictures below and how the step on the right is so dark. The picture was taken immediately after the first coat.

If i screwed up, if rather fix it now than look at it for years. Any experienced opinions?

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Old 02-29-2016, 02:18 PM   #2
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That doesn't even look like teak to me. If it is it must be some of that new growth stuff.

It looks like they should have been cleaned and needed more sanding.
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Old 02-29-2016, 02:49 PM   #3
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Yes I'm with Capt Bill on this one . Cleaning first with a two part teak cleaner like Semco Teak Cleaner will bring back the golden teak color if it is teak and it will also raise the grain to give you something to sand . All the gray needs to be cleaned up before varnish .
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Old 02-29-2016, 03:00 PM   #4
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So strip them again, teak cleaner, sand, wipe down with alcohol, and then vanish again?
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Old 02-29-2016, 03:05 PM   #5
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I'm against using commercial cleaners.
Use apple cider vinigar and hydrogen peroxide. There's a third element that my wife uses ..... baking soda. Got to wood down first but w only one coat not a problem. Scrape or sand the little bit of varnish off.
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Old 02-29-2016, 03:17 PM   #6
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Yes I would just scrape the varnish off first . I wouldn't use stripper . The grain needs to be raised to have something to sand . The cleaning with Eric's mix will do this .
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Old 02-29-2016, 03:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats View Post
I'm against using commercial cleaners.
Use apple cider vinigar and hydrogen peroxide. There's a third element that my wife uses ..... baking soda.
What ratio do you use? Do you suggest adding the baking soda?

Thanks for the feedback. This has been a learning experience. I'll take more pictures and update the thread with more progress.
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:20 PM   #8
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I`m with Capt Bill on "is that really teak?". A heat gun and scraper should get the fresh varnish off before applying the cleaner of choice.
Rather than sand down to the grooves consider using a teak stain. I dilute it and apply multiple times to get the color I want. Like on my nameboards recently, which came up well.
Glad you are aware of the "slippery when wet" aspect. I put self adhesive rubber type step treads on my refinished FB stairs.
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:58 PM   #9
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clynn,
Just reciently I detailed the Chris Mix teak restorer proceedure. Ask Marty as he started the post .... I can't find it where all refinishing threads should be or on General Discussion either. Let me know if you can't (with Marty's help) find it. There is some precautions involved.
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
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clynn,
Just reciently I detailed the Chris Mix teak restorer proceedure. Ask Marty as he started the post .... I can't find it where all refinishing threads should be or on General Discussion either. Let me know if you can't (with Marty's help) find it. There is some precautions involved.
I can't find it . I was referring to your post about cleaning in this thread .
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:32 PM   #11
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For Manyboats post, see post 9 Teak Top Rails - To Cetol or Not Cetol
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:52 PM   #12
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Thank you Mike!
I think it's all there and I had forgotten about the hydrogen peroxide. My wife Cristine is the master varnisher not me. I'll get her into this if needed but I think it's all there in the thread Mike linked. I wonder how far back Mike went in the archives? I thought I went plenty far back .. but obviously not. I imagine he searched and went right to. Good
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:00 PM   #13
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If those were my steps, I would clean off all the varnish, sand to new wood, and leave them without any finish at all. They have some grooves in them, designed to enhance traction by letting any accumulation of rainwater drain away. If you like the look of those grooves, renew them, maybe double them up, but no more varnish, please.

From your pictures, if the first is after sanding and before the single coat of varnish, it is quite obvious that you haven't removed all of the black from the grain. In order to get it all, you need to sand more of the raised gain off, likely in places you will be down a long way. Ideally, you should run that side of each board through a planer till the colour is uniform and all new wood. Then run them through the table saw with the blade set to renew the grooves. Then, dare I say it again, stop!
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats View Post
Thank you Mike!
I think it's all there and I had forgotten about the hydrogen peroxide. My wife Cristine is the master varnisher not me. I'll get her into this if needed but I think it's all there in the thread Mike linked. I wonder how far back Mike went in the archives? I thought I went plenty far back .. but obviously not. I imagine he searched and went right to. Good
Just searched for "cleaning teak, manyboats" and only two threads came up, it was the second one..........
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
For Manyboats post, see post 9 Teak Top Rails - To Cetol or Not Cetol
I had read through the first part of that thread in my earlier search, but I must say it got more entertaining near the end.

Forgive me if I missed it, but I still didn't see the ratio of vinegar to hydrogen peroxide. I can buy some off the shelf cleaner, but I like the idea of mixing my own brew.

koliver, I hear you, but all the wood on my boat is varnished and I want the steps to match. These are the steps up to the flybrige and they are protected under the canvas. The only way they are getting wet is if I spill a drink on them. Plus, this is my practice run for refinishing the cap rails.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:51 PM   #16
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I clean(ed) my bare Teak on our listed-for-sail sailboat with a power washer...gingerly. It goes grey soon enough again. Easy to remove too much wood, and patchily, too. No better time to strip what you have; the varnish is not yet cured, but the clock is ticking. That boat is a 1970 and the bare Teak in question has 'receded' about 3/32"; the repeatedly refinished, varnished Teak has lost perhaps 1/8".
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:33 PM   #17
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I still question whether that is teak. Looks more like oak to me.

If it's not teak, bleaching might not do much to brighten it.
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:16 PM   #18
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Re the black mould there are natural ways to reduce their development. That is using things that are toxic to the mould.

I don't know of many. Tea Tree oil is quite effective but very expensive. $10 for a little 2oz bottle. I hate going there but Wal-Mart had the best price I could find.
What I use is a lot of is turpentine .... said to be a toxin to mould. Putting several coats of thined varnish increases the amount of turpentine one can apply. I think one could use turp for cleaning but it smells quite strong. There are commercial fungicides but I don't know of their effectiveness. I tried to mix some once but it was for water based paint only. Didn't mix. Commercial fungicides would probably be worth looking into.

The wood looks like slash sawn teak to me. Like mahogany there are many different varieties of teak from many places around the world.
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:23 PM   #19
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[QUOTE=Capt.Bill11;420225]I still question whether that is teak. Looks more like oak to me.

Thats what it look like to me as well.

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Old 03-01-2016, 11:24 PM   #20
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clynn, thanks for posting the link to the earlier thread.
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