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03-14-2016, 03:02 PM
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#1
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Guru
City: Punta Gorda, fl
Vessel Name: Escapade
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 37 2002
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,231
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How to restore oiled teak?
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03-14-2016, 04:10 PM
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#2
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,738
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See "Teak Top Rails - to Cetol or to Varnish".
Let me know if you found it. My wife Chris does a good job and it's her department. She'll be out this afternoon but bacl in the eve.
However in three words it's hydrogen peroxide, apple cider vinigar and most likely bleach .... Just looked it up it's baking soda not bleach.
See post #10 on "refinishing hand rails".
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Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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03-14-2016, 08:03 PM
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#3
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Guru
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,438
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That finish looks very red in the picture. Sure it's not mahogany?
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03-14-2016, 08:29 PM
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#4
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Guru
City: Sydney
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,646
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Whats the fascination of stained timber on boats
Fresh white paint looks great and gives a bigger feel to a small area
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03-14-2016, 09:02 PM
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#5
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Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,540
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Greetings,
Mr. g. "Whats the fascination of stained timber on boats" Aesthetics.
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RTF
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03-15-2016, 08:11 PM
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#6
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Guru
City: Everett Wa
Vessel Name: Eagle
Vessel Model: Roughwater 58 pilot house
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,919
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Sand to reduce the depth of grain and varnish with semi gloss. We refinished most of the teak.
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03-17-2016, 01:29 PM
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#7
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Guru
City: Punta Gorda, fl
Vessel Name: Escapade
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 37 2002
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,231
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How to restore oiled teak?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Fill
Sand to reduce the depth of grain and varnish with semi gloss. We refinished most of the teak.
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Will Cetol work over wood that has been teak oiled?
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03-17-2016, 01:56 PM
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#8
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TF Site Team
City: Paris,TN
Vessel Name: Slo-Poke
Vessel Model: Jorgensen custom 44
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pgitug
Will Cetol work over wood that has been teak oiled?
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I wipe down new teak with Acetone before applying first coat of thinned varnish to lay down the natural oil in teak . Not sure about teak that has oil finish . The cetol guys should be able to answer that .
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Marty
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03-17-2016, 02:50 PM
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#9
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Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,540
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Greetings,
Mr. P. I would caution you about sanding the filler panels before you put a finish on due to the fact the veneer may be paper thin and once perforated is pretty well ruined. You can probably get fairly serious about sanding the solid wood framing and solid planks but as I said, careful with the panels.
Cetol should cover previously oiled material quite well and a wipe down with a solvent (Mr. PM suggests acetone which is fine) wouldn't hurt. You could also use Toluene, paint thinner or varsol as well. A rub down with solvent will also give you a very good indication of what the color will be after finishing whilst the solvent is still wet/moist on the surface. Maybe you won't have to stain...
Only problem I can see is the first pictures seem to be of a very flat finish and Cetol will NOT replicate that. Even the standard Cetol Marine has a gloss AND a tint (orange).
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RTF
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03-17-2016, 03:02 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,738
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Teak is a very oily wood and any oil based coating should be fine.
Marty I would not use acetone on teak.
There is a book broadly considered to be the bible of varnishing written by a woman that really knows her stuff. But she's very old school. So am I. My finishing god recomemds thinning oils and varnishes w kerosene .. says it penetrates much better. I'll look up both books at home tonight .. have them.
I still don't know what Cetol really is so I don't even know if it's oil based. If it is then Cetol can go right over wood that has been "teak oiled". But not w complete assurance as "teak oil" can be anything ..... But I think all teak oil is oil base so the question lies w the Cetol. Never used it. Wildly popular in Alaska on everything but boats.
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Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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03-17-2016, 03:26 PM
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#11
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TF Site Team
City: Paris,TN
Vessel Name: Slo-Poke
Vessel Model: Jorgensen custom 44
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,749
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Eric,
When I laminated my cap rails together West System suggested using acetone on new teak before using thickened epoxy . Thats where I got the idea that it might help before varnishing new teak .
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Marty
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03-17-2016, 04:20 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: AR
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pgitug
Will Cetol work over wood that has been teak oiled?
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No. The first application of Cetol applied properly requires as much prep as prepping to varnish. And the wood must be bone dry.
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03-17-2016, 07:06 PM
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#13
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,738
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Marty,
OK good.
For epoxy I can relate.
The two books I refered to earlier are;
1. Brightwork
By Rebecca J. Whittman
2. Skiffs and Schooners
By R. D. Culler
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Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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03-17-2016, 09:15 PM
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#14
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Guru
City: Meydenbauer Bay Yacht Club
Vessel Name: Lulu (Refugio sold)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,284
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Egads, I just sand and BLO. You guys are crazy. Ok, I actually use my friend Bill Daly's SeaFin, but it's basically BLO.
Keith
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Keith
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03-17-2016, 09:39 PM
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#15
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,738
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I have no idea what BLO is but Daly's SeaFin did'nt do well for me.
I was also disapointed it had build.
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Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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03-17-2016, 10:41 PM
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#16
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Guru
City: Meydenbauer Bay Yacht Club
Vessel Name: Lulu (Refugio sold)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,284
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BLO is boiled linseed oil, the base for all teak "treatments".
Keith
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Keith
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03-18-2016, 01:25 AM
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#17
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TF Site Team
City: Brisbane
Vessel Name: Insequent
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 50 Mk I
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,260
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Cetol is translucent orange paint, originally designed for fences and best restricted to such use.
I still have my bow rails to re-do. The Cetol is kinda cloudy now, except underneath parts that were covered and protected from the sun.
You might try Deks Olje for areas that have a prior oiled finish. Reason being that #1 is oil which is applied in multiple wet-on-wet coats until the wood is saturated. It leaves a matte finish. The #2 gloss coat is applied after #1 has dried for 4 days. But #2 is not a high gloss finish like some insist on eg the Bristol Finish brigade
For the OP, where interior teak has had lots of oil applied over the years and there is a build-up of gummy material, including dust that has stuck to the oil, then you might try Simple Green. It worked well for me. You get back to the natural wood without aggressive stripping. And as RTF said, avoid sanding if any of the areas to be done is veneer. You can then use your preferred teak oil, wiping down properly after it is applied. This give quite pleasing results.
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Brian
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03-18-2016, 02:13 AM
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#18
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insequent
Cetol is translucent orange paint, originally designed for fences and best restricted to such use.
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Perhaps a trifle harsh, Brian.
I`ve had success cleaning a dull over-waxed antique furniture using mineral turpentine, or as we call it here, turps. It would not remove varnish, but oil and wax should be taken up on a turps dampened rag. I`ve even scraped excess wax out of corners carefully using a screwdriver blade, before cleaning with turps. After cleaning I waxed the surface( no doubt restarting the process).
Howards make a product called Restore a Finish, which can revive an existing finish. Some people find keeping the original finish and patina very important in old furniture. It`s a while since I used it but it did work.
__________________
BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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03-18-2016, 05:34 AM
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#19
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TF Site Team
City: Brisbane
Vessel Name: Insequent
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 50 Mk I
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,260
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Bruce
Yes, a bit harsh, and somewhat tongue in cheek. I chose not to be subtle in case the point was overlooked!
I have been disappointed in Cetol's durability and performance, and its look, several years after applying it. It comes off easily (a redeeming feature) and I only have about 80 ft, mostly bow rail and toe rail on the foredeck, left to fix. Users beware! It may work for some folks in climates more friendly. I would suggest seeking corroborative support in your local area, from a bunch of people, apply the right amount of salt and make a choice from there.
I've followed your lead. Happy so far, but really too early to judge. Whatever happens I won't blame you - don't you worry about that - as the saying in Queensland used to go.
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Brian
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03-18-2016, 06:00 AM
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#20
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,119
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Right from Interlux Cetol Pages preparation instructions
Exterior – Weathered Wood or Previously Oiled Wood: To ensure proper adhesion of Cetol products on weathered or previously oiled wood, use Interlux Premium Teak Restorer with a nylon scuffing pad as per instructions on label. Be sure to rinse the wood well with clean water to remove surface dirt and allow to dry thoroughly.This should be followed by the preparation procedures for New Exterior/Interior Wood.
Seems like the primary ingredient for the restorer which is water based is Oxalic acid. So much other than a clean dry surface, previously oiled wood doesn't seem to be a bad surface to start with as long as it is scuffed enough to present a holding surface.
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