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Old 03-02-2016, 01:16 AM   #21
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Hard to tell from pics but those steps look like they are getting thin, probably from repeat sanding. My latticed cover over the hatch beside the anchor windlass has been sanded very thin. Which is why I came up with applying a judicious teak stain on my FB nameboards before varnishing(Cetol), limiting sanding to the essential, rather than aggressive.
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:40 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
I still question whether that is teak. Looks more like oak to me.

If it's not teak, bleaching might not do much to brighten it.
Looks like oak
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:46 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by clynn View Post
I stripped, sanded, and started to varnish my steps this weekend (I know, slippery when wet). My question is did I mess up by not using a product to clean the teak? See the pictures below and how the step on the right is so dark. The picture was taken immediately after the first coat.

If i screwed up, if rather fix it now than look at it for years. Any experienced opinions?

Attachment 49426
Attachment 49427
Cant help with the teak but, if you are concerned about slippery steps, check this out. Varnish Non-skid
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Old 03-02-2016, 11:44 PM   #24
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I'm currently in the process of refinishing the teak on my Californian and it has miles of it. I'm about 75% complete by knocking out a section at a time.

The process I'm using is:
1) Strip the old finish to bare wood using a heat gun and scraper.
2) Sand with 80 grit.
3) Clean with Oxalic Acid, 1/2 cup per Gallon of water. Apply with stiff bristle brush and let sit 15 minutes then scrub and rinse off with water. Re-apply as needed.
4) Let it dry out.
5) Knock down any rough spots with 120 grit.
6) Dust it off, Tape it off.
7) Refinish:
a) Three coats Cetol Marine Light applied at 24 hour intervals.
b) One Coat Cetol Marine Gloss.

Caution: The heat gun stripping method works great but you need to be careful not to burn the wood. Keep the heat moving in front of the scraper.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:46 AM   #25
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Updates:

1. Having spent more time on it, I agree with folks saying it's not teak.

2. After scraping off the new varnish, I'm getting pretty good with my new, higher quality scrapper and heat gun. Good practice, I suppose.

3. I tried the vinegar and hyd peroxide to clean/de-gray the grain. No luck. Also used Barkeepers Friend. Had some success with the Semco 2 part teak cleaner. Then got 60 grit sand paper and went at it again. They look somewhat better.

4. Last night I applied my first coat, but switched from Epifanes to Cetol for my first 2 coats to get a better color. The remaining coats will be Epifanes.

I'll post some picks next week after a few more coats. Again, I appreciate everyone's tips and suggestions. Once this is done, cap rails are next. Then the door, which is a darker color, so I'll definitely be back with questions on that one.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:43 AM   #26
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4. Last night I applied my first coat, but switched from Epifanes to Cetol for my first 2 coats to get a better color. The remaining coats will be Epifanes.

.[/QUOTE]

I don't have any advice but, I haven't heard of anyone using Cetol for a base coat and the finishing with varnish. Anyone know if that works?
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:44 AM   #27
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I would also mention for anyone doing this the first time around, don't skimp on the sandpaper. Buy 3M or equivalent quality. It's a few extra bucks but well worth the time and frustration saved.

Companies like Harbor Freight sell inexpensive sandpaper that is complete junk.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:45 AM   #28
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clynn,
Did you forget the baking soda in Chris's formula? She just told me it would'nt work w/o the baking soda. And it needs to set for a bit prior to the mechanical effort. I thought she gave all the details in previous posts.

Edit:
See Mike's (rochepoint's) post #11 and it's link.
"Teak top rails - to Cetol or not Cetol"
Then see post #9. All the info is there.
Sorry, I should have been more detailed.
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Old 03-18-2016, 12:02 PM   #29
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Quote:
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clynn,
Did you forget the baking soda in Chris's formula?
I guess I missed the reference to baking soda...thanks for pointing that out. I attacked the steps with everything from chemicals to sandpaper and I was able to get a lot of the grey out of the grain, which was especially prevalent in one step. I'm keeping notes and acquiring better tools, so my next project should go smoother.

As for whether or not you can apply Epifanes over Cetol, give me a week and I'll you know.
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Old 03-18-2016, 01:18 PM   #30
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What I have used when taking the finish off to bare teak is sand paper that is used for refinishing floors. It comes in rolls and has a stiff backing. I buy it by the running foot and cut it down to hand sanding size. The coarse grit will quickly remove the finish and then you can switch to finer grits to finish the surface.
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Old 04-17-2016, 01:19 PM   #31
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Click image for larger version

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Finally got the steps finished and installed this weekend. The only problem is that they make the rest of the wood look bad, but that's next (and a topic for my next thread). Thanks again for everyone's help!
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:25 AM   #32
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Looks great! Congrats.
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:59 AM   #33
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Greetings,
Mr. c. The lesson you should learn is do NOT refinish just one piece or be prepared to do everything. Hahahahaha....I do that all the time. Looks nice. Now, how about the non-skid?
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Old 04-20-2016, 12:09 PM   #34
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Ahh, the non-skid issue. I admit that they are a bit more slick than I had anticipated, but they're still under cover and shouldn't get wet. They go from the enclosed aft deck to the enclosed flybridge.

The plan was always to refinish all the exterior wood and I'm learning more and more about stains and varnish as I go along. I had a great visit at local woodworking store yesterday, so I'm feeling more confident as I move forward. Depending on how my darker colored aft deck doors and trim goes, I may be tempted to strip the steps once again and stain them to match. I figure that way I could get some additional use out of that nice scrapper and heat gun I bought If I do that, I'll take the slip issue more seriously.
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Old 04-20-2016, 06:50 PM   #35
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As far as the wood goes, oak is very porous so look at the end grain, its full of little minute holes, unlike almost any other wood but for maybe cypress. From the pix shown it could be teak or oak, have to see the end grain.
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