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02-12-2013, 06:16 PM
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#21
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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Flatsflyer,
One of the downsides to using fast evolving hot new products.
Call the folks at Fisheries Supply. Talk to the resident painting expert and ask him if there is a compatible or equivalent product.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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02-12-2013, 06:17 PM
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#22
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Scraping Paint
City: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,745
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Be a shame if the product leaves the market. We've had wonderful success with it and wouldn't want to have to come up with something else to replace it.
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02-12-2013, 07:58 PM
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#23
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Guru
City: Hailing Port: Charleston, SC
Vessel Name: Moonstruck
Vessel Model: Sabre 42 Hardtop Express
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 8,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats
Flatsflyer,
One of the downsides to using fast evolving hot new products.
Call the folks at Fisheries Supply. Talk to the resident painting expert and ask him if there is a compatible or equivalent product.
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Eric, it seams that Fisheries Supply is a stocking dealer for Bristol.
Bristol Finish High Performance Wood Coatings | Fisheries Supply
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02-12-2013, 09:15 PM
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#24
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Guru
City: Cruising East Coast US
Vessel Name: Grace
Vessel Model: DeFever 48
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,420
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Not good at all. The small bottle of catalyst dries out in storage long before the can. On a separate note I watched an owner put it on his 75' that's right 75' Flemming two days ago. I told him I had a problem with bubbling when I used it in the past. He said they had never had such a problem. Went by today and guess what, the same small bubbles I could not avoid. Yes I applied in the shade in the afternoon a the wood was cooling.
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Cruiser
Esse Quam Videri
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02-12-2013, 09:36 PM
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#25
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Guru
Vessel Name: Anastasia III
Vessel Model: Krogen 42
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,716
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I keep the catalyst for my Honey Teak in the refrigerator. Lasts at least a year that way.
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02-12-2013, 09:45 PM
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#26
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Guru
City: Cruising East Coast US
Vessel Name: Grace
Vessel Model: DeFever 48
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,420
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Good tip!
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Cruiser
Esse Quam Videri
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02-12-2013, 10:23 PM
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#27
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Guru
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,308
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Flatsflyer beat me to it. Bristol called us a couple of weeks ago to see if we wanted to buy their remaining stock. We didn't. I got a request for some from a guy in Turks and Caicos yesterday so I tried to call Bristol and like Flatsflyer got the message saying the phones were disconnected.
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02-12-2013, 11:09 PM
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#28
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Guru
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar
Flatsflyer beat me to it. Bristol called us a couple of weeks ago to see if we wanted to buy their remaining stock. We didn't. I got a request for some from a guy in Turks and Caicos yesterday so I tried to call Bristol and like Flatsflyer got the message saying the phones were disconnected.
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This is not good. I sure hope someone takes the company over and continue selling this amazing product. I used to use traditional varnish and had to do an annual 2-coat maintenance. This is with covers. Without the covers I got 9-10 months. Then I switched to Bristol which lasts 2 years uncovered. It is so nice not having to cover brightwork anymore. Add to that I only get a varnishing bill every 2 years instead of annually.
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02-12-2013, 11:27 PM
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#29
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Scraping Paint
City: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,745
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We've never had a problem with bubbling using Bristol. If there is any moisture on the wood it can do this but we never apply it after about 4:00 pm in the summer months and so have never had any problem with moisture.
We store the catalyst after it's been opened in the refrigerator with wax paper over the opening and threads under the cap and electrical tape wrapped tightly around the joint between the cap and the bottle. This keeps the catalyst usable for a long time although not indefinitely.
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02-13-2013, 09:06 AM
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#30
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Guru
Vessel Name: Just a Tinch
Vessel Model: Gulfstar 44 MC
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 595
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Bristol's website is still up...but that doesn't mean much....
Psssst..... Just so you know...if you can't get their tropical reducer...you can use Tom Fabula's "Signature Finish Flow Fluid"......same ingredients....and works.
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02-13-2013, 10:01 AM
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#31
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Guru
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 741
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I still have more than a quart of Bristol Part A, and two dried up bottles of the hardener. I asked their tech guy about using another urethane hardener...of course he didn't think it would work, but did mention that it contains a portion of the "super glue" chemical...which is why it dries in the bottle if not handled with kid gloves. A very annoying drawback...along with the tiny bubbles that I've sometimes encountered. That said, it's tough stuff. I'm going to experiment with some automotive urethane hardener and a tube of super glue this Spring. Bristol's $25 plus shipping quote for a bottle of Part B struck me as extortion anyway.
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02-13-2013, 10:10 AM
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#32
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Guru
City: Hailing Port: Charleston, SC
Vessel Name: Moonstruck
Vessel Model: Sabre 42 Hardtop Express
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 8,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAT
Bristol's website is still up...but that doesn't mean much....
Psssst..... Just so you know...if you can't get their tropical reducer...you can use Tom Fabula's "Signature Finish Flow Fluid"......same ingredients....and works.
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I heard that Tom Fabula was producing a finish very similar to Bristol. Do you know if he is, and is it compatible? We have been using the amber color.
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02-13-2013, 10:24 AM
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#33
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Guru
Vessel Name: Just a Tinch
Vessel Model: Gulfstar 44 MC
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonstruck
I heard that Tom Fabula was producing a finish very similar to Bristol. Do you know if he is, and is it compatible? We have been using the amber color.
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Tom's product is called "Honey Teak".....and I suspect there may be some compatibility.... I painted my topsides with his "Signature Finish" paint.... and then ordered Bristol...the Admiral wanted it.... She wanted to thin it... I had some extra "Flow Fluid" of Tom's and compared the ingredients to Bristols Tropical Reducer (I think that is what its called)...and the ingredients are the same. And it worked well.... But...here is the "Caveat".... I'm not a chemist, so I think it would be best to talk to Tom about the compatibility issue just to be sure. He's not bashful about talking about his products....and he's a nice guy.
Color compatibility? Probably very close....at least from the pictures I've seen.... If its the color you're concerned about...he sells his products by the ounce instead of by the quart or gallon.... So maybe you could buy just a little bit to try and compare...
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02-13-2013, 02:34 PM
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#34
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Guru
Vessel Name: Just a Tinch
Vessel Model: Gulfstar 44 MC
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 595
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I happened to talk to one of the ladies here in the marina that does teak varnishing and she uses Bristol.... She said that she heard that owner of Bristol Finish passed away... So it could be that no one is continuing the business.... She said "she heard that" and couldn't confirm it....so who knows?
I ordered another gallon kit of it so I could be sure we could finish our teak!!
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02-13-2013, 03:07 PM
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#35
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Guru
City: Longboat Key, FL
Vessel Name: Bucky
Vessel Model: Krogen Manatee 36 North Sea
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,196
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I've just stripped everything on my veranda deck....ladder steps, cap rail, transom door frame, intake grilles, etc.. I'm going with Cetol natural teak and Cetol clear over it. I've seen enough examples now, and I'm satisfied that even though it may not be exactly as glossy, the maintenance is so much easier. Inside, I'll stay with varnish.
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03-09-2013, 09:00 PM
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#36
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Guru
City: Hailing Port: Charleston, SC
Vessel Name: Moonstruck
Vessel Model: Sabre 42 Hardtop Express
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 8,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAT
I ordered another gallon kit of it so I could be sure we could finish our teak!!
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Thanks, got my shipment of Bristol Finish Friday.
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03-11-2013, 02:49 PM
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#37
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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I finally figured out what I was looking at. Your picture is up-side down. Looks and sounds like a good tip and I'll try and remember this post is here when I need some teak like wood but mostly we are trying to maintain what we've got. I'd rather work on my cap rails than replace them. Thanks though.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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03-13-2013, 10:59 PM
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#38
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Member
City: San Rafael
Vessel Name: April Dream
Vessel Model: 1982 MMC Trawler
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 12
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My best results are sanding existing varnish with 220 and then finish with 320 fine sandpaper. Also, the best varnish by far is Pratt & Lambert. Make sure it's the marine varnish
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03-13-2013, 11:41 PM
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#39
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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Curt,
Why would P&L be "far" better than Others like McCloskie's, Schooner or Epiphanies?
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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03-14-2013, 09:03 AM
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#40
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVNoPlans
I would take it down to bare wood. Tinting the varnish gives a muddy finish over time. .
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In my experience (with furniture and such) tinted varnish or any tinted clear coat gives a muddy finish right away.
If you care, it's best to strip the parts down to bare wood, stain, and then apply the clear coat of your choice.
If you really care, an alcohol or water based dye will provide a nicer look than a pigmented stain. It probably isn't necessary on exterior boat trim though.
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