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Old 02-12-2013, 07:16 PM   #21
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Flatsflyer,
One of the downsides to using fast evolving hot new products.

Call the folks at Fisheries Supply. Talk to the resident painting expert and ask him if there is a compatible or equivalent product.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:17 PM   #22
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Be a shame if the product leaves the market. We've had wonderful success with it and wouldn't want to have to come up with something else to replace it.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:58 PM   #23
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Flatsflyer,
One of the downsides to using fast evolving hot new products.

Call the folks at Fisheries Supply. Talk to the resident painting expert and ask him if there is a compatible or equivalent product.
Eric, it seams that Fisheries Supply is a stocking dealer for Bristol.

Bristol Finish High Performance Wood Coatings | Fisheries Supply
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:15 PM   #24
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Not good at all. The small bottle of catalyst dries out in storage long before the can. On a separate note I watched an owner put it on his 75' that's right 75' Flemming two days ago. I told him I had a problem with bubbling when I used it in the past. He said they had never had such a problem. Went by today and guess what, the same small bubbles I could not avoid. Yes I applied in the shade in the afternoon a the wood was cooling.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:36 PM   #25
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I keep the catalyst for my Honey Teak in the refrigerator. Lasts at least a year that way.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:45 PM   #26
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Good tip!
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:23 PM   #27
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Flatsflyer beat me to it. Bristol called us a couple of weeks ago to see if we wanted to buy their remaining stock. We didn't. I got a request for some from a guy in Turks and Caicos yesterday so I tried to call Bristol and like Flatsflyer got the message saying the phones were disconnected.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:09 AM   #28
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Flatsflyer beat me to it. Bristol called us a couple of weeks ago to see if we wanted to buy their remaining stock. We didn't. I got a request for some from a guy in Turks and Caicos yesterday so I tried to call Bristol and like Flatsflyer got the message saying the phones were disconnected.
This is not good. I sure hope someone takes the company over and continue selling this amazing product. I used to use traditional varnish and had to do an annual 2-coat maintenance. This is with covers. Without the covers I got 9-10 months. Then I switched to Bristol which lasts 2 years uncovered. It is so nice not having to cover brightwork anymore. Add to that I only get a varnishing bill every 2 years instead of annually.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:27 AM   #29
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We've never had a problem with bubbling using Bristol. If there is any moisture on the wood it can do this but we never apply it after about 4:00 pm in the summer months and so have never had any problem with moisture.

We store the catalyst after it's been opened in the refrigerator with wax paper over the opening and threads under the cap and electrical tape wrapped tightly around the joint between the cap and the bottle. This keeps the catalyst usable for a long time although not indefinitely.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:06 AM   #30
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Bristol's website is still up...but that doesn't mean much....

Psssst..... Just so you know...if you can't get their tropical reducer...you can use Tom Fabula's "Signature Finish Flow Fluid"......same ingredients....and works.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:01 AM   #31
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I still have more than a quart of Bristol Part A, and two dried up bottles of the hardener. I asked their tech guy about using another urethane hardener...of course he didn't think it would work, but did mention that it contains a portion of the "super glue" chemical...which is why it dries in the bottle if not handled with kid gloves. A very annoying drawback...along with the tiny bubbles that I've sometimes encountered. That said, it's tough stuff. I'm going to experiment with some automotive urethane hardener and a tube of super glue this Spring. Bristol's $25 plus shipping quote for a bottle of Part B struck me as extortion anyway.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:10 AM   #32
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Bristol's website is still up...but that doesn't mean much....

Psssst..... Just so you know...if you can't get their tropical reducer...you can use Tom Fabula's "Signature Finish Flow Fluid"......same ingredients....and works.
I heard that Tom Fabula was producing a finish very similar to Bristol. Do you know if he is, and is it compatible? We have been using the amber color.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:24 AM   #33
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I heard that Tom Fabula was producing a finish very similar to Bristol. Do you know if he is, and is it compatible? We have been using the amber color.
Tom's product is called "Honey Teak".....and I suspect there may be some compatibility.... I painted my topsides with his "Signature Finish" paint.... and then ordered Bristol...the Admiral wanted it.... She wanted to thin it... I had some extra "Flow Fluid" of Tom's and compared the ingredients to Bristols Tropical Reducer (I think that is what its called)...and the ingredients are the same. And it worked well.... But...here is the "Caveat".... I'm not a chemist, so I think it would be best to talk to Tom about the compatibility issue just to be sure. He's not bashful about talking about his products....and he's a nice guy.

Color compatibility? Probably very close....at least from the pictures I've seen.... If its the color you're concerned about...he sells his products by the ounce instead of by the quart or gallon.... So maybe you could buy just a little bit to try and compare...
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:34 PM   #34
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I happened to talk to one of the ladies here in the marina that does teak varnishing and she uses Bristol.... She said that she heard that owner of Bristol Finish passed away... So it could be that no one is continuing the business.... She said "she heard that" and couldn't confirm it....so who knows?

I ordered another gallon kit of it so I could be sure we could finish our teak!!
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:07 PM   #35
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I've just stripped everything on my veranda deck....ladder steps, cap rail, transom door frame, intake grilles, etc.. I'm going with Cetol natural teak and Cetol clear over it. I've seen enough examples now, and I'm satisfied that even though it may not be exactly as glossy, the maintenance is so much easier. Inside, I'll stay with varnish.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:00 PM   #36
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I ordered another gallon kit of it so I could be sure we could finish our teak!!
Thanks, got my shipment of Bristol Finish Friday.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:49 PM   #37
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I finally figured out what I was looking at. Your picture is up-side down. Looks and sounds like a good tip and I'll try and remember this post is here when I need some teak like wood but mostly we are trying to maintain what we've got. I'd rather work on my cap rails than replace them. Thanks though.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:59 PM   #38
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My best results are sanding existing varnish with 220 and then finish with 320 fine sandpaper. Also, the best varnish by far is Pratt & Lambert. Make sure it's the marine varnish
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:41 AM   #39
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Curt,
Why would P&L be "far" better than Others like McCloskie's, Schooner or Epiphanies?
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:03 AM   #40
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I would take it down to bare wood. Tinting the varnish gives a muddy finish over time. .
In my experience (with furniture and such) tinted varnish or any tinted clear coat gives a muddy finish right away.

If you care, it's best to strip the parts down to bare wood, stain, and then apply the clear coat of your choice.

If you really care, an alcohol or water based dye will provide a nicer look than a pigmented stain. It probably isn't necessary on exterior boat trim though.
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