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Old 01-18-2011, 06:02 PM   #21
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Type of caulking and bedding material

RUSBET! GREAT see you over here on Trawlerforum!! I think you will love this site! Great folks here.

TF friends- Rusbet and I have corresponded a little bit from another Monk site that I used to be on. I sent her the link and believe it or not, even mentioned you guys are occasionally helpful!!

Welcome to trawler forum Rusbet! Take a look around and this is the type of site I was trying to explain to the MOA....great sense of community and helpfulness here.

-- Edited by Woodsong on Tuesday 18th of January 2011 08:02:29 PM

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Old 01-19-2011, 09:51 AM   #22
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RE: Type of caulking and bedding material

I used a non-5200 3M product. Can't remember if it was 4200 or 4000 but it was UV.
I do remember that quickly failed. Sikaflex 291 seems to adhere and seal very well.
Sealers and adhesives work like paints and other coatings**** ....only as good as the prep.
I probably used the 3M 4000/4200 where someone had used silicone before or some other thing bad for adhesion and it did'nt stay. Standard prepping procedures probably aren't enough in some cases. Hard to explain Keith's experience though but I'll bet it's probably not the product's fault. Some other variable did it in. But I guess I'm not doing as I preach as I'm using Sikaflex now and not the 3-M.

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Old 04-02-2016, 04:28 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
** Should have said 3M 4000 UV.* I've used it in the past for teak decking to house joints and it "seems" fine.* Stays bright white.

3M Manufacturing¬*| 3M United States

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Saturday 8th of January 2011 12:59:09 PM
I used 3M 4000UV to caulk my teak toe rail both at the deck and the outside.

It has failed miserably:

Makes a wet residue after rain or washing with plain water, sometimes
feeling about like freshly laid caulk

Peels off in strips, or

Falls off in chunks [segments of the caulk line, complete]

Crazes and chalks, and

perhaps others related to cleaning with water (only) which I don’t recall,
as the admiral does that.

I called the tech support desk; that guy gave me the number for the head
technical guy at 3M; every call resulted in being directed to voice mail,

An extensive conversation, at long last after chasing each other around
missing each other, with 3M's head tech guy established:

My preparation (remove all old caulk, light sand in the chamfered opening I
cut into it for deeper penetration into any gaps under the toe rail, blow
out, scrub with acetone and allow to dry, tape toe rail and deck/hull) was
as good as it gets

Application was perfect (caulk, immediately tool with caulk tool, lift
tape) - I had two people helping in order to do all this while it was fresh)

Cure time and environment was appropriate.

After which, he admitted that they had had a "formulation problem" with
4000UV that they were still trying to sort out.

He said, but has walked back that offer, that he'd provide a form for me to
take to allow a merchant to be reimbursed, and that I should redo it with a
competitor's product.

A variety of emails have passed, attempting to pin him down as to what we
should do about that. He's understandably reluctant to do that, but He
wasn't specific as to what to buy, other than saying he thought Sika had a
good product for that application.

But the fact that he told me not to go back with new 4000UV, free or not,
that they were still working out kinks in the formulation, says volumes.

That I've seen exactly my complaint in many places merely confirms that I am
neither alone, nor inadequate in my use of the product. That he'd go to the
length of telling me to buy a competitive product is honorable in the
extreme, but I'm a bit surprised that he didn’t leap on the chance to have
me present a good-fer (not even a mosquito on an elephant's butt in the
scheme of things for 3M) to make the ultimate tone of this a bit sweeter
("3M Tech Support Rocks! Details at 11!)

So, when we again reach shore, we'll be digging out all that soggy or
brittle stuff, and starting over with something else. At this time, the
'something else' is under review, as not much of anything sounds good or
without problems for the application we have (sealing a fiberglass-to-teak



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Old 04-03-2016, 08:02 AM   #24
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I wouldn't recommend 3M 4000 UV also. The stuff does not last in the sun from my experience. I'm not sure what the UV stands for?

Here's a picture of the caulk less than 3 years old.
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:32 AM   #25
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I have used a few hundred tubes of Loctite Black PL on the boat and around the house. It is good for outdoors in the sun and rain.
Hdepot sells this for about $5.
Loctite PL S30 Polyurethane Roof & Flashing Sealant from Loctite Adhesives

It is a soft rubber, softer than 5200, totally waterproof, I have used it underwater seams and thru hulls.
I have to someday reseal some teak. I might use this, or I might use Black DynaFLEX 230 caulk. I might use both. I certainly wont use something that costs twice as much which is not twice as good.

Dynaflex comes in many colors. I could get dark brown or light tan. Black is traditional, but does not have to be black.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:23 PM   #26
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I have used TDS SIS440 for all teak deck bedding and caulking, it is slow curing but beautiful stuff to work with. Deck hardware on FG or wood I use a product called permagum which is a wee bit better than butyl, comes in a loaf and be had from most marine HVAC suppliers. You'll get years and most likely decades out of it..........old school, but lasts

As far as 3M? It's ok, messy as hell but ok. Rule of thumb is 5200 below waterline 4200 above.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:34 PM   #27
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Use 5200 or 4200
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:09 PM   #28
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I will admit my experience with 3M 4000UV was going on 10 years ago so in light of recent member's experience I would cross that material off the "to use" list.
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:26 AM   #29
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All boats will eventually spring a leak somewhere.

Around hatches ans windows deck fittings is common.

" I noticed a little spot where it seemed to have come loose and I gently pulled on it.
The entire caulk job came off w almost no effort at all. Just pulled it all off in less than a minute."

This seal then easily peal is Great for temporary repairs .

You can stop the leak and in 6 months or a year when you "getaroundtoit" the repair is easy to clean up .

Not all sealing wants to be "forever".

The same leak could have been repaired with 5200 but a chisel not your fingertips might be needed to begin a real repair.

I LOVE silicone as it expands my time before I must repair a leak.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:15 AM   #30
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The real repair after using silly cone can be a bigger problem. That crap has no place on a boat.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:19 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by kulas44 View Post
The real repair after using silly cone can be a bigger problem. That crap has no place on a boat.
The problem with silicon is that nothing with stick to it down the road when that real repair is done.

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Old 04-13-2016, 06:15 AM   #32
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"The problem with silicon is that nothing with stick to it down the road when that real repair is done."

No problem, the silicone is used as it is easy to Remove before the real repair begins.

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