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Old 08-28-2016, 04:51 AM   #1
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Two extra thru hulls with shut off valves

We are in the middle of a bottom job and are rebedding all the thru hulls below the waterline . I have two thru hulls with shut off valves that are not being used and just have a threaded plug in the top of the valve . I can't see us ever needing these for anything .Would it be best to just remove these and rebed like we're doing the rest of them or best to just do away with and glass over the
hole ? The yard is going to have to do some glass work anyway .
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:52 AM   #2
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If the yard does it properly, glassing them in is a better solution. Filled in 4 of my 5 and one transducer hole while doing my refit. Proper technique is to clean the hole. Sean did this by boring one size larger with a hole saw. Next he fiberglassed in a 1/4" thick fiberglass disc in the middle of the thickness of the hole. Then he took a 4" grinder with a course sanding disc and dished out the remaining hole on both sides. It looked like you could set a saucer in the depression. Then he fiberglassed in progressively larger circles of bi-axial cloth inside and out, to fill the depression to the level hull surface. Don't remember how many layers of cloth he used, but he would glass in 4 or 5 pieces at a time. It went much faster than I thought it would. Extremely happy with the results!

Ted
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:22 AM   #3
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The next owner might love a good engine driven deck wash or fire pump.

Who knows what will be created that can use them?

I would make sure they are 100% and just leave them inplace.
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:49 AM   #4
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If the yard does it properly, glassing them in is a better solution. Filled in 4 of my 5 and one transducer hole while doing my refit. Proper technique is to clean the hole. Sean did this by boring one size larger with a hole saw. Next he fiberglassed in a 1/4" thick fiberglass disc in the middle of the thickness of the hole. Then he took a 4" grinder with a course sanding disc and dished out the remaining hole on both sides. It looked like you could set a saucer in the depression. Then he fiberglassed in progressively larger circles of bi-axial cloth inside and out, to fill the depression to the level hull surface. Don't remember how many layers of cloth he used, but he would glass in 4 or 5 pieces at a time. It went much faster than I thought it would. Extremely happy with the results!

Ted
Thanks Ted . Sounds like the right way . I sure could use your Sean about now . I feel sure the yard can handle this but I will pass on Sean's method .
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:53 AM   #5
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The next owner might love a good engine driven deck wash or fire pump.

Who knows what will be created that can use them?

I would make sure they are 100% and just leave them inplace.
Thanks FF, that's a good point . I usually only think of the next owner when I'm installing something with 5200
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:02 AM   #6
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The next owner might love a good engine driven deck wash or fire pump.
I would make sure they are 100% and just leave them inplace.
Yup!
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:16 AM   #7
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Greetings,
Mr. PM. What Mr. FF said. Exercise them occasionally as well.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:21 AM   #8
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Remove them and glass the holes. No need to put a plug in, simply dish both sides and glass the hole up. Putting the disk of glass in actually results in a weaker repair than full depth glassing.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:22 AM   #9
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"Thread hijacking in progress."
My thru hulls are circa 1987 and have never been reseated. Fresh water environment. No issues to date. Is this something to add to my never-ending list?

My apologies to PM.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:25 AM   #10
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Quote:
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The next owner might love a good engine driven deck wash or fire pump.

Who knows what will be created that can use them?

I would make sure they are 100% and just leave them inplace.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:26 AM   #11
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Remove them and glass the holes. No need to put a plug in, simply dish both sides and glass the hole up. Putting the disk of glass in actually results in a weaker repair than full depth glassing.
I believe the dishing ensures that the glassed in portion does not pop out if hit by heavy water.
Which I have seen happen. She is lieing on the bottom oh Lake Huron.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:30 AM   #12
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Remove them and glass the holes. No need to put a plug in, simply dish both sides and glass the hole up. Putting the disk of glass in actually results in a weaker repair than full depth glassing.
Much of the disk goes away in the dishing process. The purpose of the disc is to have a solid sufface to glass against and work out any air bubbles. If you're really worried, after glassing in the bi-axial cloth on the bottom, you can sand away the disc from the top. That's a little OCD, even for me.

Ted
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:06 AM   #13
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If you want a solid surface to glass against, start by putting a couple of layers of mat on the inside and let the resin kick. that provides a nice surface to work against for air rolling. You can remove any air from the mat by wetting it out and air rolling it on a sheet of cardboard and then laying it in place. The advantage on not glassing a disk in is that you have fabric spanning the hole for the full thickness and don't have a disk that is only held into the hole by resin. I would grind the hole inside and out to a feather edge, lat two layers of saturated mat on the inside, let it kick then lay up the outside and then the inside.
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:13 AM   #14
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We would hope the yard doesn't need instructions on how to fill a hole in the hull. If it does, you need a different yard or an outside fiberglass contractor.


My boat, I would leave the thru hulls in place. I don't think it's worth the trouble and expense to remove them and properly fill the holes and repaint.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:09 AM   #15
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Are they in your way or in danger of getting broken off, if not I'd leave them as is, or remove the valve and just put a threaded cap on the thru hull pipe stub.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
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If you want a solid surface to glass against, start by putting a couple of layers of mat on the inside and let the resin kick. that provides a nice surface to work against for air rolling. You can remove any air from the mat by wetting it out and air rolling it on a sheet of cardboard and then laying it in place. The advantage on not glassing a disk in is that you have fabric spanning the hole for the full thickness and don't have a disk that is only held into the hole by resin. I would grind the hole inside and out to a feather edge, lat two layers of saturated mat on the inside, let it kick then lay up the outside and then the inside.
Of I see the problem. When I say a disk, I'm referring to a piece of scrap that is bi-axial cloth and fiberglass, such as a molded bench from a runabout. Simply we punch out a disk with a hole saw, The disc is secured in place with fiberglass filleting compound.

Ted
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:20 AM   #17
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Much of the disc goes away in the dishing process. The purpose of the disc is to have a solid sufface to glass against and work out any air bubbles. If you're really worried, after glassing in the bi-axial cloth on the bottom, you can sand away the disc from the top. That's a little OCD, even for me.

Ted
I have read of this method by several pros.

Haven't done it that way myself, but would be pretty confident in it as I do vee top and bottom......also if it was an epoxy repair and small holes in a thick hull.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:30 AM   #18
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If you decide to glass them in, I would not use a fiberglass disk in the middle.
Dish both the interior and exterior to a feather edge as others have suggested.
Next glass a few layers on both the interior and exterior at the same time. This will form a chemical bond in the open area, which is the preferred method over a mechanical bond.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:33 AM   #19
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Two extra thru hulls with shut off valves

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Are they in your way or in danger of getting broken off, if not I'd leave them as is, or remove the valve and just put a threaded cap on the thru hull pipe stub.

^^^^^^ This Marty

Rebed them and move on with life is the cheapest option unless they're in your way. You've spent enough money at the yard this year. This is a classic example of mission creep.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:38 AM   #20
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"As adhesives, epoxies bond in three ways: a) Mechanically, because the bonding surfaces are roughened; b) By proximity, because the cured resins are physically so close to the bonding surfaces that they are hard to separate; c) Ionically, because the epoxy resins form ionic bonds at an atomic level with the bonding surfaces. This last is substantially the strongest of the three. By contrast, polyester resins can only bond using the first two of these, which greatly reduces their utility as adhesives and in marine repair."

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoxy

Using epoxy on smaller repairs allows greater flexibility in how they are done.
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