Tool Set Recommendations?

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dpmcgarry

Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2023
Messages
23
Location
Chesapeake Bay, MD
Vessel Name
Le Chèile
Vessel Make
Selene
Hey all. Just put in an offer on a 53' selene. Our prior boat was a pocket cruiser and while I did most of my own work, the tool set on that boat was largely cobbled together from spares I had around the house supplemented with cheap HF stuff. It's been a number of years and as I've aged a bit my tolerance for 'cheap' tools has gone down.

I've been browsing (mostly in circles) online trying to figure out a good strategy to get a solid set of tools to have on the new boat, ideally from day 1. It appears that going with a "mechanics" toolkit is the best bang for your buck (I missed the boat on this when stocking my garage at home I guess). That said I am in analysis-paralysis with what direction to go so wanted to see what others thoughts / experiences / recommendations were.

The top choice appears to be the gearwrench 243 piece set. It's got solid socket coverage, what appear to be good quality socket wrenches, a good spread of extensions / adapters, plus some ok to good quality combination wrenches:

https://www.gearwrench.com/products...point-mechanics-tool-set-3-drawer-storage-box

The alternative set was the Quinn 428 piece set:
https://www.harborfreight.com/master-technicians-tool-set-428-piece-58154.html

The "more stuff" in that set appears to be ratcheting combination wrenches and 12 point sockets. I'm not a fan of the ratcheting combination wrenches for engine work (even if they are nicer) and I don't *think* that 12 point sockets are a thing on boats but I'm also not sure.

I could do what I did before and buy 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drive SAE/Metric Standard + Deep socket sets + a set of wrenches but I think that is less bang for your buck.

Anyways wanting to hear folks thoughts on brands / buying a big set vs. building your own / need for 12 point on a boat / etc.

And yes. I realize this is somewhat of a 'religious' topic :)
 
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I am personally a fan of craftsman, but won't argue that decision. I am biased against many sets as they run up the count with junk and small stuff I will never use.

More importantly is any tool ever used on the boat, stays on the boat. If I needed it to do a preventive maintenance task, I keep it. At the end of every job, I also analyze what I should have had and buy it for the boat. Recent adds were a set of stubby wrenches.
 
For me a big consideration is storage. Have 1 built in tool cabinet in the bilge/er but it is not moisture proof so does allow rusting.
The blow molded case that holds the large Craftsman assortment was a large part of the choice to stock it. A paper towel saturated with WD40 dropped in when closing provides a greater level of protection.
The higher end HF tools are good quality and could be stored in their knock off of the Penguin case for long term protection.
 
Welcome aboard. Does the engine have both metric and SAE bolts on it? My 6CTAs do. So I have to stock both types of tools.
 
I can't tell you *what* to get, but I can tell you what NOT to get.

This:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-277...-Mechanics-Tool-Set-with-Hard-Case/5014441975

I bought it because I was under the impression that all the tools fit into formed spaces and locked in. This is not the case. About 60% of them do, and the rest just sit in their spot. This is not ideal on a boat - never mind rough seas; just moving them around and hauling them to the engine room and whatnot is enough to have them all over the place when you open up the top cover or the drawers.

Having said that, I do like Kobalt tools - when I was building cars, I had a ton of them. So I'm looking at buying one of these:

https://www.atlas46.com/online-store/Yorktown-Tool-Roll®-Original-p88260008
 
For me a big consideration is storage. Have 1 built in tool cabinet in the bilge/er but it is not moisture proof so does allow rusting.
The blow molded case that holds the large Craftsman assortment was a large part of the choice to stock it. A paper towel saturated with WD40 dropped in when closing provides a greater level of protection.
The higher end HF tools are good quality and could be stored in their knock off of the Penguin case for long term protection.

I was given permission by the owner to cut one of those tray sets in half... some of the stuff that was supposed to stay in place in the top half wouldn't. Now there are two pieces. This works well and solves the problem of sockets and Allen wrenches falling out of their slots. I find this easier to work with on projects too.

As for organizing your tools, realize your initial choices will evolve. At one time I did had my drill and bits TDC (top dead center) as almost every project involved attaching something. I started with a gazillion stainless screws, nuts and bolts. Those were more handy than imagined.

In the intervening years I have added much, and gotten rid of some. My friend Ken told me I could borrow anything once, however if I needed it a second time I should buy my own. This has proven valuable advice.

You will need two large channel locks (stuffing box) ...

Add one of those square sockets/wrenches (a crows foot) for the bolt that secures the shaft and transmission together. Don't forget solid stainless keys for both your props, rudder and tyranny. Mine are cut to the length required. Two different diameters of course, with the rudder smaller. Quite frankly, I would strongly suggest you have these in your ship stores. Finding stainless in small towns is not easily accomplished. And yes I've sheared two. My home is older than many here so newer boats might not have the same needs...

Crows foot located near the front left corner
Tools1and2.jpg


Good luck.

And: check the fit of your tools. My hands are smaller than most so some hand tools simply are difficult for me to use. Grab a screwdriver. Do you prefer a handle that is three sided, round or??? These things matter. I have come to admire the JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) impact screwdrivers. The Phillips head have a cool grippy part that enabled me to remove a 40 year old stripped out screw from teak.

Remember too: buy once, cry once. Knuckle busters can ruin your day.
 
Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Whatever "set" of tools you buy make sure to get 3X 10mm sockets/wrenches etc. Any 10mm. It's the only changeover size (Metric to SAE) you can't fake or work around AND 10mm is the first to become one with the bilge.
 
That Gear Wrench set is pretty good and its a pretty good choice. Check out a comparison recently done by Project Farm. Ill post it below. I am a lifelong mechanic with a massive amount of tools. But for the boat I bought a similar set (craftsman) that packs and carries well. Nice choice.

One other thing I might recommend is the Milwaukee pack out system. I have a Ryobi version and use it ALL THE TIME. But the Milwaukee is much better. Its on wheels and I use it to carry parts and additional tools back and forth on and off the boat. I have several additional slide out units that I make into kits. One with all wiring tools and terminal ends etc. Another with fittings and thread sealer and clamps, etc.

 
DBG8492 had a great suggestion: tool bags. I have four tool bags with many duplicate tools. Each set is matched to a specific maintenance job and stationed near to where they are used in the ER and PH. SAE and metric a must, and an endoscope is always handy.
 
Whatever wrench set, screwdriver set, cooking pan set you get I would recommend you to also get a whole set of electrical tools like pliers, crimpers, meters etc etc.

L
 
Wow thanks for all the great replies.

Ironically I was always partial to Craftsman as well but started to have reservations once Sears went out of business. I'm not sure if it's the same quality.

It was actually the project farm video that aimed me at GearWrench. It also comes with the blow molded case (though I don't think it is airtight) which would at least be "better" than a couple drawer steel toolcase.

I have been eyeing some of the stackable systems around now. Milwaukee looks rather nice but also has the price tag to go with it. I've watched / read Dirona's blog for many years (ironically I work w/ James but he is a pretty big wig). I noticed that he transitioned to more of a toolbag + roll for his tools vs. the centralized toolbox approach and I was thinking that makes a bit more sense too. Have some central storage (perhaps with a small stackable system since they are also airtight) + the small gearwrench box + a tool bag + a roll of wrenches.

The boat has a new (recently repowered) Cummins QSL9, a Yanmar 4JH4E, and a NL 12kw genset.

I was assuming most stuff would be a mix of metric (primarily) with need for SAE as well.
 
Is there a good 'starter' set of stainless fasteners (screws, nuts, bolts, washers) folks have come across or is is more of a "go buy a small pack of the common sizes and then add to your stock over time"?
 
I have an open top grab-bag that covers 90% of projects. It has screwdrivers, channel lock pliers, needle nose, lineman pliers, crescent wrenches, tool roll for SAE combination ratchet wrench and another for metric, hex wrench, small container of misc fasteners, utility knife, Teflon tape, etc. My drill driver sits in it too. I also have a separate tool bag for electrical.

Larger items including ratchets (roll-ups with sockets on sticks), large wrenches, hammers, etc, are stored separately.

I gave up on the blow molded cases years ago. Too bulky, carry too much, parts inevitably work loose, hinge breaks. But the worst is opening upside down. Sockets all over.

Peter
 
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I have an open top grab-bag that covers 90% of projects. It has screwdrivers, channel lock pliers, needle nose, lineman pliers, crescent wrenches, tool roll for SAE combination ratchet wrench and another for metric, hex wrench, small container of misc fasteners, utility knife, Teflon tape, etc. My drill driver sits in it too. I also have a separate tool bag for electrical.

Larger items including ratchets (roll-ups with sockets on sticks), large wrenches, hammers, etc, are stored separately.

I gave up on the blow molded cases years ago. Too bulky, carry too much, parts inevitably work loose, hinge breaks. But the worst is opening upside down. Sockets all over.

Peter


Same here. I have a single open top bag that contains all I need for 90% of the jobs I do. When I need other tools, I grab them from a tool box. Molded cases are nice from an organizational stand point, but are a horrible waste of space when space is limited. I throw out most of them.


As for the starter tool kit, I would just pick one and get started working on the boat. Whatever you choose, there will be stuff in it that you never use, and there will be things that are missing Buy the missing stuff as you need it, and purge truly useless stuff.
 
Ironically I was always partial to Craftsman as well but started to have reservations once Sears went out of business. I'm not sure if it's the same quality.

It was actually the project farm video that aimed me at GearWrench. It also comes with the blow molded case (though I don't think it is airtight) which would at least be "better" than a couple drawer steel toolcase.

I have been eyeing some of the stackable systems around now. Milwaukee looks rather nice but also has the price tag to go with it. I've watched / read Dirona's blog for many years (ironically I work w/ James but he is a pretty big wig). I noticed that he transitioned to more of a toolbag + roll for his tools vs. the centralized toolbox approach and I was thinking that makes a bit more sense too. Have some central storage (perhaps with a small stackable system since they are also airtight) + the small gearwrench box + a tool bag + a roll of wrenches.


I've gravitated toward mostly bags and rolls. Milwaukee, but there are several alternatives. Seem to be slightly easier to put into odd shaped spaces, unlike most rigid boxes.

One big bag with most individual tools around the side pockets and mostly visible, but also with some bags (e.g., sockets on rails) and roll-ups (wrenches) loose in the big bag compartment. Slightly color coded for SAE and metric. The bag ended up too heavy to carry often... not a surprise.

A smaller bag for carrying select tools from there to the actual job.

Another solution for electrical tools and supplies. Would have been another bag, but I already had a small toolbox for the tools (crimp, strip, multi-meter, etc.), and the supplies (butt connectors, fuses, etc.) work nicely in a fishing tackle box with drawers and a bazillion compartments.

-Chris
 
My surveyor looked into the couple of tool boxes left onboard by the PO and said there must be over $1K of tools. Yeah, but it was a few sockets, a few allen wrenches, a single 24" giant box wrench, lots of oddball things, including some that I didn't recognize. Turns out the big wrench allows me to easily turn over the Lehman, the few sockets have allowed me to remove the tranny, pull the head and, so far, do most everything needed. When I'm baffled about what tool I need, I just check the old kit. "So that's what this is for." 50 years of prior ownership created the almost perfect tool kit. Almost is as close as you'll ever get.

The new windlass is metric, so there is that.

I keep my canvas rigger's bag easily accessable. I've had it for decades and it just keeps on ticking. One of the best purchases I've ever made.
Most tools fit in pockets on the outside. Blade on one side, Phillips on the other, scratch awl, chisel (wood and steel), dental pick, razor knife, on and on. After a few years you can know just where to look (and what is missing). Better than all piled up in a tool box.

As with most boat stuff, better to buy this at an non-boat business.

thepotterystudio.com/products/canvas-tool-bag
 
Agree with other posters who recommend a single open-top bag with "general" stuff in it for quick access when needed - medium pipe wrench, small and medium adjustable, 3/8 ratchet with small sets of SAE and Metric sockets, open/box in SAE/Metric, screwdrivers...etc. I store mine in a cabinet in the saloon, but it only has stuff I think I might need quickly.

I also have a separate electrician's bag (mil surplus) that has all my electrical stuff in it - meters, strippers, crimpers..etc.

I bought the Kobalt set because I needed a single "full" set of imperial and metric - this boat has both - and because I *thought* the case would hold everything in place. In hindsight, I would have been better off with the roll and buying the tools separately.

Having said that, I also agree with RT Firefly regarding the 10mm. I always keep at least five 10 sockets and assorted wrenches in different bags/boxes because they are special, and, as such, they are the most used and most borrowed and - as he said - most likely to be lost.
 
I noticed that he transitioned to more of a toolbag + roll for his tools vs. the centralized toolbox approach and I was thinking that makes a bit more sense too. Have some central storage (perhaps with a small stackable system since they are also airtight) + the small gearwrench box + a tool bag + a roll of wrenches.

At this point in time that is my philosophy too but add the set like the Gear Wrench. I have a combination of tool bags + the packout roll around + a system like the Gear Wrench set. The tool bags do 75% of all work. The Gear Wrench type set up contains all the other tools that you might need from time to time such as deep well vs shallow sockets, the need for a 1/2 drive larger socket here and there and just a larger combination of tools, extensions, step up/step down, etc that you will eventually need to make jobs easier.

The Roll around pack out has the main large container that can fit tons of parts and things as well as an open top container that "snaps in" on top. I use that as a dolly to move large items on and off the boat as needed. It been great. But dont buy the Ryobi version. As good as its been for me the Milwaukee and other look far superior and I should have paid the extra for those. But these types of items where just coming into existence when I purchased and Ryobi had them very cheap.
 
Greetings,
Welcome aboard. Whatever "set" of tools you buy make sure to get 3X 10mm sockets/wrenches etc. Any 10mm. It's the only changeover size (Metric to SAE) you can't fake or work around AND 10mm is the first to become one with the bilge.
Funny. If you watch BIGSTACKD on YouTube, he has a separate locking lid box for his 10MM's. Occasionally they make an escape!
 
These dang discussions...

I was just at Ace Hardware and they had the Milwaukee pack out system in stock. I took a close look at it again. The one thing I wanted to do was to stand on it. It held my weight very easily. Could probably support 2 times my weight. My Ryobi system I have stood on once with my feet at the edges and it was shaky.

After reevaluating the Milwaukee I went to Home Depot website and bought the main Milwaukee unit with wheels along with the matching storage crate that locks in place on top of the other main unit. The crate was on special buy for $49. The main unit was $139. Add 10% military discount, free next day shipping to my home and it came to $181.97 for both. This is basically the same combo I have been using (but Ryobi) for about 2 years. I use it like a dolly and parts wagon. I have carried many heavy parts and even plywood sheets etc to and from the boat as well as provisions and cushions etc. The larger wheels on the Milwaukee VS the Ryobi will help too.

Ill give the Ryobi away. Ill just chock it up to a late Christmas present to myself lol.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-PACKOUT-22-in-Rolling-Modular-Tool-Box-48-22-8426/303005865
 
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I am a fan of 6 point sockets vs 12 point sockets, 6 points seem to do best when trying to get off a rusty bolt that's partially rounded off. I also look for common sizes at the upper and lower end of sizes. For example I was looking at a metric set and it stopped at 18mm. I not sure if I've ever used an 18mm socket in my life, it's usually a 17 or 19mm. I wish the decision makers would skip the odd sizes and include more common sizes. If I had a choice between an 18mm or 19mm I'd pick 19 every time. Same the bottom end of the spectrum, don't stop at an odd size like 9mm. An 8 would be better than a 9.

I also like ratcheting combo wrenches and have had good luck with a set from harbor freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...ce-sae-ratcheting-combo-wrench-set-96654.html I don't use them to break free frozen nuts or bolts since that may be asking a bit much from them. But they have held up fine for doing regular maintenance or assembly type work.

Speaking of harbor freight they have a 25% off coupon this weekend.

+1 on a tool bag with common tools for most jobs. Many bags are black and that's not always the easiest to find tools in when the lighting is dim. I have a white canvas bag that I like from harbor freight. I don't think they sell it anymore though.
 
For power tools I have moved to Ridgid because they have a lifetime service contract if you register them within 90 days. I just got a 3 panel LED light back from the service center. I had it for about 4 years and a screw came loose that holds the stand on the light. The screw came loose inside and I didn’t want to mess with it. So I went online and made a claim. They emailed me a FEDEX shipping label. I dropped it off and a couple of weeks later a brand new improved LED light came to the house. Great service. And the service contract includes the batteries. Something to think about if you are starting to acquire tools. I had several thousands of dollars of Dewalt 18 volt tools that I got tired of buying batteries for so I sold them and moved to Ridgid.
 
Hey all. Just put in an offer on a 53' selene. Our prior boat was a pocket cruiser and while I did most of my own work, the tool set on that boat was largely cobbled together from spares I had around the house supplemented with cheap HF stuff. It's been a number of years and as I've aged a bit my tolerance for 'cheap' tools has gone down.

I've been browsing (mostly in circles) online trying to figure out a good strategy to get a solid set of tools to have on the new boat, ideally from day 1. It appears that going with a "mechanics" toolkit is the best bang for your buck (I missed the boat on this when stocking my garage at home I guess). That said I am in analysis-paralysis with what direction to go so wanted to see what others thoughts / experiences / recommendations were.

The top choice appears to be the gearwrench 243 piece set. It's got solid socket coverage, what appear to be good quality socket wrenches, a good spread of extensions / adapters, plus some ok to good quality combination wrenches:

https://www.gearwrench.com/products...point-mechanics-tool-set-3-drawer-storage-box

The alternative set was the Quinn 428 piece set:
https://www.harborfreight.com/master-technicians-tool-set-428-piece-58154.html

The "more stuff" in that set appears to be ratcheting combination wrenches and 12 point sockets. I'm not a fan of the ratcheting combination wrenches for engine work (even if they are nicer) and I don't *think* that 12 point sockets are a thing on boats but I'm also not sure.

I could do what I did before and buy 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drive SAE/Metric Standard + Deep socket sets + a set of wrenches but I think that is less bang for your buck.

Anyways wanting to hear folks thoughts on brands / buying a big set vs. building your own / need for 12 point on a boat / etc.

And yes. I realize this is somewhat of a 'religious' topic :)

This is a great topic, and this thread focuses on tool "sets" very well. There have been previous posts regarding the assortment of tools and parts you're likely to need if you enjoy turning a wrench. As I recall, there was a list of tools and extra supplies you might want to have on a thread not so long ago. I think Bob of Ford Lehman contributed some valuable recommendations. I hope you can find those threads.
 
This was Bob Smith’s recommendation, don’t know how well it applies to other engines.
 

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I was against the blow molded mechanics tool kits but got a smaller Dewalt kit as a gift a couple of years ago. It's proven quite useful and it's got excellent grip on all the tools so nothing moves. The tools themselves are great quality. The Dewalt case is briefcase sized and it tucks away innocuously in my salon so it's super convenient. I also have a bunch of random tools and hardware sets that I use all the time in one of the storage spots in my salon settee, which also make them super convenient. I can address 90% of my projects with just the tools in my salon.



The Dewalt kit tops out at 15/16" and 21mm for sockets and 5/8" and 17mm for wrenches, so I have additional bigger combination wrenches and sockets to augment it, but I rarely use them so they are stored less conveniently.



Regarding SS hardware kits, it has to be 316 stainless and I have never found a 316 kit that's all that useful or cost effective. I just make my own with fasteners purchased at boltdepot.com (usually in bags of 100) and 4 tackle boxes from Walmart. The extra fastener inventory that won't fit in the tackle boxes stays in heavy-duty zip lock bags and goes in a medium tool bag that I use to replenish the tackle boxes.


I love the old Dewalt 18V tools. They are well made and you can find them all day every day on craigslist or facebook marketplace, dirt cheap. When I break one (which is rare, I can secure a replacement for 20 bucks pretty easily. The generic Ebay ni-cad 18V replacement batteries are dirt cheap, actually work quite well, and they're safer than lithium ion. The only tool I have that requires 20V is my 1/2" impact gun. That's a really handy tool to have on board.
 
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Regarding SS hardware kits, it has to be 316 stainless and I have never found a 316 kit that's all that useful or cost effective. I just make my own with fasteners purchased at boltdepot.com (usually in bags of 100) and 4 tackle boxes from Walmart. The extra fastener inventory that won't fit in the tackle boxes stays in heavy-duty zip lock bags and goes in a medium tool bag that I use to replenish the tackle boxes.


Thanks for the tip on boltdepot. I got 316 vs. 304 crosswise in my head and found a couple of inexpensive kits on amazon but they were 304 which won't meet the requirements here.
 

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