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Old 08-13-2018, 07:17 AM   #1
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Tips for painting small areas with Awlgrip

I'm about to paint a couple window frames with Awlgrip, and was hoping somebody out there had a few tips, and could potentially answer a few questions.

How long do I have to wait for the 545 primer to dry before overcoating, and how long between topcoat coats?

It doesn't look real feasible to roll it on because the window frame is so narrow, has anybody had luck just brushing and tipping?

I have the 545 primer and converter, the awlgrip and converter, thinner, and accelerator (somebody told me if it dries a little quicker less dust will get on it).
I hope to start today!
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:04 AM   #2
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Sorry I can't help. Planning on doing a similar project,certainly hope you get some response.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:12 AM   #3
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There is a lot of info on the Awlgrip website re application.
I have experience w Awlcraft and assuming they are somewhat similar.
Mfg recommends overnight cure of primer b4 topcoat but we did prime topcoat and clearcoat all in one day.
We Let primer cure a couple hrs. Sprayed 3 coats topcoat and 2 coats of clear.
No experience brushing but would assume cure would be longer...and more similar to roll & tip.
Have you considered spray... I have used the Preval sprayers for small touchups w reasonable success.
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:09 AM   #4
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There is a lot of info on the Awlgrip website re application.
I have experience w Awlcraft and assuming they are somewhat similar.
Mfg recommends overnight cure of primer b4 topcoat but we did prime topcoat and clearcoat all in one day.
We Let primer cure a couple hrs. Sprayed 3 coats topcoat and 2 coats of clear.
No experience brushing but would assume cure would be longer...and more similar to roll & tip.
Have you considered spray... I have used the Preval sprayers for small touchups w reasonable success.
Actually Awlgrip and Awlcraft are not similar. Awlcraft is more like Alexseal in many ways. Awlgrip is far more difficult to do right.
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:41 AM   #5
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In decently warm weather you can topcoat the 545 the next day.
If you are rolling/brushing the Awlgrip the usual process is one coat a day. You can push it in warm weather and if you're not sanding between coats.
On something narrow like a window frame just brush it. Thin about 25%. And remember, thin coats or it will sag.
Accelerator doesn't make the paint go tack free any quicker, it speeds up the cure time.
Awlgrip and Alexseal are similar as they're both poly urethanes. Awlcraft is different as it is an acrylic urethane. You can brush Awlgrip and Alexseal you can't brush Awlcraft.
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Old 08-13-2018, 02:59 PM   #6
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Just put on a coat of the 545 primer thinned about 8%. The first coat goes on really thin. The stuff has a consistency between whole milk and half-and-half. Also, it dries almost immediately. I couldn't help but put a second coat on right after because I had extra and it was already tack free. Second coat went on much thicker because the first coat was real grippy (like when you hot coat epoxy). Only after the second coat was there proper coverage. The stuff has almost no self-leveling characteristics because it dries so damn fast. The only way to get a smooth coat will be to put it on thick and sand it down. I wouldn't bother trying to roll and tip, I just put it on with a crappy chip brush. Although the Awlgrip people say to wait 12 hours between coats, I had no problem putting on a couple of coats one after the other.
I'll update tomorrow about the topcoat.
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:00 PM   #7
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Ya, rolling or brushing primer is frustrating. It just doesn't flow. You end up sanding of all you've put on. After rolling and brushing a bunch of both primer and topcoat I think I've finally convinced my self that spraying the primer is the way to go.
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:06 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Westiculo View Post
I'm about to paint a couple window frames with Awlgrip, and was hoping somebody out there had a few tips, and could potentially answer a few questions.

How long do I have to wait for the 545 primer to dry before overcoating, and how long between topcoat coats?

It doesn't look real feasible to roll it on because the window frame is so narrow, has anybody had luck just brushing and tipping?

I have the 545 primer and converter, the awlgrip and converter, thinner, and accelerator (somebody told me if it dries a little quicker less dust will get on it).
I hope to start today!
I overcoat the 545 the next day. As long as you do it within 24 hours you don't need to sand, or so says the mfg. Brushing is tough to do with this stuff, and you certainly don't want to use the accelerator, which is for spraying in cold weather. You would want to use their brushing thinner, which is a retardent. Personally, I only use an Iwata air brush. The air brush makes repairing Awlgrip very easy. Although with window frames you have a hard edge you can mask, where you're repairing an area in the body of a surface, the air brush doesn't require that you mask anything and you get much better results of you don't. You just spray, and then wet sand the area with 800, then 2000, then rub out with running compound and swirl remover. Sounds tough, but it is really simple and the repair will be invisible.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:18 PM   #9
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Thanks for the tips, guys.

So I put the topcoat on today - two coats of it with a rainstorm in-between.
I used about half the amount I did for the primer. For those three frames I used 4 ounces of primer, 2 of converter, 2 of thinner, and 1mL of accelerator and had 50% left over.

The accelerator is great; like baccus said, it doesn't help the solvent evaporate, it helps it cure more quickly afterwards. All the frames are totally solid from a coat 5 hours ago, they don't even smell like anything. The topcoat brushes on very smooth, it's actually pretty great to work with. I sanded through the primer in a few small area, but went for the topcoat anyway - no problems with coverage. The only thing is a little bit of dust landed on the paint while wet, but really doesn't bother me.

I put both the brush and the mix in an airtight container with cellophane touching the paint so there was no air gap and threw it in the fridge between coats. Totally fine 5 hours later, and still the same 8 hours later. No reason not to mix the whole bunch at the same time for all the coats.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:20 PM   #10
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Pictures?

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Old 08-14-2018, 09:24 PM   #11
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Sorry, I realized I forgot to upload.
Hard to get a photo of a glossy finish, but you can kind of see it from this corner earlier today.
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:49 AM   #12
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Sorry, I realized I forgot to upload.
Hard to get a photo of a glossy finish, but you can kind of see it from this corner earlier today.
Looks great
I would never guess you could do that w a brush.
Thanks for the update.
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:31 AM   #13
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Thanks!
Check it out, new and old window systems in action. The one I made works like a portlight, opening to the inside. It has no vertical line where the panes are split, has double pane tempered glass for the Boston weather, no aluminum frame so no condensation in the winter, and we get twice the air flow when it's open. Also we used low-e glass which blocks a lot of the thermal radiation from the sun in the summer, and is supposed to keep it warmer in the winter too.

Only problem is the awlgrip job makes the rest of the boat look bad.
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Old 08-18-2018, 08:35 AM   #14
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Thanks!
Check it out, new and old window systems in action. The one I made works like a portlight, opening to the inside. It has no vertical line where the panes are split, has double pane tempered glass for the Boston weather, no aluminum frame so no condensation in the winter, and we get twice the air flow when it's open. Also we used low-e glass which blocks a lot of the thermal radiation from the sun in the summer, and is supposed to keep it warmer in the winter too.

Only problem is the awlgrip job makes the rest of the boat look bad.
Would you have more picture, or model or description of the window you built, I am very interested so see how you built it.

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Old 08-18-2018, 09:29 AM   #15
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Yeha I'll make a new thread for that once I get some pictures together on how I did it all
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:15 AM   #16
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Thread with the window design - as promised.
Custom windows for Grand Banks 42
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:29 AM   #17
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Thread with the window design - as promised.
Custom windows for Grand Banks 42
Thanks a lot, very interesting subject for me as I have some to change!

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Old 08-20-2018, 09:01 AM   #18
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I have posted my Awlgrip work on the GB forum. Used AwlWood too.

Awlgrip primer first coat go very light, almost fog it. Second coat twice as much. Primer you can lightly sand.

Top coat must be thinned. I have sprayed it reduced with thinner, and brushed with reducer. Awlgrip and AwlWood both flowout very well. Very temperature sensative, if over 70 add retarder to slow it down so it can flow.

I use foam brushes and throw them away as soon as they start to become contaminated or break up. Too hard to clean Awlgrip and AwlWood. Spraying it is easy, but cleaning sucks.

Awlgrip is very hard, once cured, it is super hard to buff out. AwlWood is just slightly softer. Both are much harder than car finishes or powder coating.

Incredible products. You must be good, the reflective ability shows every flaw. Start on small projects first to get a feel for it.
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Old 08-24-2018, 12:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Westiculo View Post
I'm about to paint a couple window frames with Awlgrip, and was hoping somebody out there had a few tips, and could potentially answer a few questions.

How long do I have to wait for the 545 primer to dry before overcoating, and how long between topcoat coats?

It doesn't look real feasible to roll it on because the window frame is so narrow, has anybody had luck just brushing and tipping?

I have the 545 primer and converter, the awlgrip and converter, thinner, and accelerator (somebody told me if it dries a little quicker less dust will get on it).
I hope to start today!
The first piece of advice is to PREP PREP PREP. If you don't you will end up doing it again. And if you seal an issue underneath - you won't see the continuing damage and you may end up replacing or repairing the window frames.

Regardless of the application, when you are done prepping it you should stay back and be impressed at how good you did. Second - protect all areas - use the best masking tape possible - with excellent edge protection qualities. Paper areas for splatter and drips.

Make sure after all that is done that you wipe everything down for dust and micro particles before applying any finish.

Now, I'm a patient guy. I would suggest doing a coat of primer. Let it dry. Hit it with some 180 or finer sandpaper Wipe it down and do another thin coat.

From there, let it dry. Feel it with your fingers. If should feel perfect. If not, you can use an even finer grain and knock off any burrs and then go to paint.

It's better to do multiple thin coats over fewer thick coats. Your time between coats will vary on temperature and humidity. If you can avoid rushing. Let the coats dry fully and lightly sand between layers. Trust me - when it is all done you will be much happier.

No - NO ROLLER. If you can't spray - and you should really rent or get a sprayer - they aren't that expensive - then get the best paintbrush on the planet. PRACTICE on something so you can feel the flow and see how it dries BEFORE you paint the actual frames.

So my major point is to be patient. Your wanting to "start today" is a warning sign that when it's done it may not be as good as it can be... Have fun :-)
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Old 08-24-2018, 01:13 PM   #20
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Good advice. Use 400 or finer paper. Take your time. I had to use a razor blade to cut the masking tape off. For Windows, tape, prime, then consider pulling tape and retaping, so you don't have to cut the tape off.

Use tack rags. When done right, you will not be able to distinguish Awlgrip from polished gelcoat.
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