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Old 02-16-2013, 07:12 PM   #1
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Timber Window Drains

My 1981 IG has timber window frames, drained by holes drilled through the wood frames. Those with sliding glass have drain holes in both the inside and outer frames. My main problem is the fixed 3 windscreen frames,which are weather/rain exposed with the cover off.
Drain holes must be kept clean of debris, but with the best intentions, the inevitable rot occurs, and it has, well before my ownership.
I had advice to run thin clear epoxy wood preserver (sold here as Everdure) down the holes, but I`m thinking of installing tubing, maybe plastic, in the drain holes, sealed at the joint, to isolate the water from the wood. I can see this requiring larger diameter holes to accommodate the tubing, so as to maintain the same drain diameter. In my opinion this should have been done at build, maybe in metal tubing.
A parallel issue exists with wood U drains around and across the centre line of the aft lazarette hatches. I`ve seen done it elsewhere, but who on earth decided drains made of or through wood, was a good idea?
Anyone been here before, anyone able to offer any ideas?
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:23 PM   #2
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Wooden window frames are for the birds. Is there a good way to change them out?

I'm fortunate to have steel frames.

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Old 02-16-2013, 07:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markpierce View Post
Wooden window frames are for the birds. Is there a good way to change them out? I'm fortunate to have steel frames.
Indeed, cute little swallows perch on the tops of the ones under cover, and poop.
Replacement cost is prohibitive, I need to improve the current drainage.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:44 AM   #4
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I cut 1/2 notches in the frame instead of holes so water can not sit get trapped..
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:04 AM   #5
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We had the same problem and replaced all windows with custom built, aluminum extruded frames with safety glass from Bomon. Not nearly as expensive as you'd think. Give them a call and get a quote, I think you'll be surprised.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:52 AM   #6
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I like your CVS. Was it added after windows were made or did you order it with the windows?
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:12 AM   #7
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I like your CVS. Was it added after windows were made or did you order it with the windows?
The window was ordered with the hole cut already. As it is tempered glass it must be cut before tempering.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:38 PM   #8
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GB uses bronze tubing for the drains that direct condensation that might collect on the inside sills to the outside. The drains for the exterior sliding window tracks are simply holes drilled at an angle up through the frame and through the aft end of the track. When we overhaul a frame we give it multiple coats of CPES including down through the drain hole.

But there has never been a rot problem with any of these holes, even before we started overhauling the frames after we got the boat. The frames on a GB are mahogany. We clean out the drain holes periodically with a section of wire coat hanger. We also keep Sunbrella widow covers on the windows when we aren't using the boat and these work wonders at preventing dirt accumulation in the tracks.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:47 PM   #9
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Cheap copper tubes can be used instead of the bronze tubes - available everywhere.
Drill the holes, insert the tubes - fasten with clear epoxy. Sand and lacquer it to finish it off.
Probably the best looking, cheapest, easiest and KISS.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:54 PM   #10
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Thanks for the advices. The problem ones are exterior drains in the windscreen windows. The copper tubes are a good idea, in heavy rain they will not be adequate, I could add a couple of rounded depressed areas to the bottom frames to get water away, and it could look ok.
On a previous boat I replaced side saloon aluminum windows with new, it was surprisingly inexpensive and a great result. Partly for the appearance I will start by trying to preserve the originals. I suspect there is already some bog (filler) under the paint in the window corner drain areas.
Interestingly the 2 replacement windows the Yard made were red mahogany; so red it looked painted, and the plank they cut from was seriously heavy, therefore dense. Flame mahogany is beautiful enduring furniture timber.
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