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Old 09-04-2019, 08:16 PM   #1
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For Those Who Have Had Their Teak Decks Removed

I have gone through the archives and could not find this, just very general answers
**I’m looking for price feedback from folks who have had their teak decks removed and painted with non skid. ** I realize prices will vary due to condition and choice of paint etc.

Please, if you have had this done to your vessel, can you answer these questions?

1) who did the project ( a referral would be greatly appreciated)
2) how much was the final cost
3) general idea of extensive repair of subdeck ( lots of rot vs. very little repair needed, need to build up fiberglass etc)
4) boat make and model


Thanks
Erika

PS this list would help many, not just me :-)
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Old 09-04-2019, 09:47 PM   #2
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Well, we don't know enough from you have told us. How big is the boat? About how many square feet of teak? No one knows what they will find under the teak. It could take two guys a month to do the job at $100.00 per hour each, plus supplies. Is the boat worth new $30,000 dollar decks? This is one project that most people would do themselves.
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Old 09-04-2019, 10:06 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Russell Clifton View Post
Well, we don't know enough from you have told us. How big is the boat? About how many square feet of teak? No one knows what they will find under the teak. It could take two guys a month to do the job at $100.00 per hour each, plus supplies. Is the boat worth new $30,000 dollar decks? This is one project that most people would do themselves.
Per her avatar, itís a 42í Grand Banks...
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Old 09-04-2019, 10:28 PM   #4
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It will depend on what they find when the teak has been removed. What condition is the core in? Is the top fiberglass thick enough without the teak or is more glass needed in order for the deck to be structurally sound? How bad was it to get the teak off? How badly was the fiberglass damaged when the teak was removed? I would guess it would cost between $20 and 30K to have it done. As mentioned most of the time this is done it is DIY due to the cost.
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Old 09-04-2019, 10:39 PM   #5
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I agree on the $20K+ estimate for removal, re-glass, refinish (non-skid) for a 42' trawler. If you find significant delamitation or rot then those repairs would represent additional project costs above and beyond the replacement. I would expect to find those issues in any screwed down teak deck.

We replaced our boat deck recently (DIY). Materials were about 10% of that cost, but our (sweat equity) labor hours were extensive due to our decision to go all in on a complete deck replacement.
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Old 09-05-2019, 12:01 AM   #6
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And a nice replacement deck it is.
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Old 09-05-2019, 01:21 AM   #7
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I have some costs from 2012. Work done by BUMS at Port Townsend, WA. I removed deck hardware and teak, but then left the guys to do the rest. The core was balsa, and about 40% rotted and 50% wet. The thin GRP layer below the balsa was intact, no interior leaks.

We replaced in strips about 4ft wide so as to have something solid to work from. Replacement was 2 x marine ply layers bedded with vinyl ester resin to give same thickness as balsa, I think 5/8". The ply joins on the top layer were staggered across the lower layer. Faired and then a new GRP top layer created, probably around 3/16", once again wth vinyl ester resin. Then faired and awl grip, with micro balloons for non-slip. The area was approx 92 sq ft, and the BUMS cost was $17,000. Very happy with result. Now 7 years on, no issues at all.
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Old 09-05-2019, 01:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Clifton View Post
Well, we don't know enough from you have told us. How big is the boat? About how many square feet of teak? No one knows what they will find under the teak. It could take two guys a month to do the job at $100.00 per hour each, plus supplies. Is the boat worth new $30,000 dollar decks? This is one project that most people would do themselves.
I think the question is who's had it done ?
Not asking for a quote
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Old 09-05-2019, 03:03 AM   #9
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Mine was done in Australia, so not 100% helpful, on a 1981 36ft Island Gypsy Europa. All teak was removed. Except for 2 ft square sections after stepping up to bow level, the deck sandwich material underneath was intact foam. The 2 squares of teak were soft and wet, and replaced with foam. I wanted fresh teak in the cockpit and side decks,and painted non slip on the exposed foredeck.The former required one layer of fiberglass laid, the latter needed 2 layers, to restore stiffness. The glued on fresh teak was expensive, the painted non slip way cheaper, but the cost was worth it. Paint choice cost would be a minor consideration.
Water ingress is the big issue, you either do the job or hopelessly compromise the boat. There`s little option but to fix it.
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Old 09-05-2019, 06:43 AM   #10
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While I do not have teak decks, I did have some delamination and rot repaired as part of a larger redit/restoration. First stop on my cruising plan was Ensenada MX, South of San Diego. I found a small team of workers (NizaMarine.com) who include excellent fiberglass and paint workers. I cannot speak to the exact cost as it was blended with some other work, but in general, I've been surprised at how quickly skilled fiberglass workers can work.

I live in St Pete FL where our boat will eventually end up. I considered of the boat shipped to Florida and having the work done there. I talked with many yards - some in out of the ay places - to see if there were affordable options for a large project. I received tepid responses, and the yard rates were not much different than San Francisco Bay area yards - $125/hr range. So I spent some money getting the boat seaworthy for the 500nm trip south to Ensenada and headed south.

I see the OP is in the panhandle of Florida. I hear rumor there are capable and affordable yards in Isla Mujeres MX which should be within range of your GB 42 (assuming she's in reasonable condition). I know there is a decent cruiser community there - shouldn't be too difficult to tap into if you're up for the adventure.
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Old 09-05-2019, 07:15 AM   #11
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We did the back deck of my boat during my refit. As mentioned, repairing / replacing coring can be a huge cost. I removed the teak in 2 days. There was no water damage to coring. Screw holes were filled. 2 layers of biaxial cloth with fiberglass were added for rigidity. Then numerous coats of gelcoat and finally Kiwigrip. I would guess the cost below $4k as there was a lot of finishing and fairing for the gutter system around the deck. Unfortunately Sean is booked for the next 2 years, and with his regular customers on top of that, I think that number is optimistic.

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Old 09-05-2019, 07:37 AM   #12
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Looks nice. Kiwi Grip is just the non skid portion correct? Is the gloss paint of Gelcoat?
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Old 09-05-2019, 08:18 AM   #13
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Looks nice. Kiwi Grip is just the non skid portion correct? Is the gloss paint of Gelcoat?
Yes, Kiwigrip is just the non skid top coating. Gelcoat does a great job of fairing the fiberglass surface, is durable, and easily sandable. The shiny top coat is Awlgrip paint over the Gelcoat.

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Old 09-05-2019, 12:14 PM   #14
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Thanks for the feedback. Yes, Iím looking to hear from those who have had it done.

If I get a good pool of prices, company and location, and boat info. Iíll make a list for other to reference for price range and hopefully yards/contractors to look into.
Thanks again,
Erika
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Old 09-06-2019, 05:23 AM   #15
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"By using one of KiwiGrip's proprietary rollers (sold separately) and by varying application technique, the texture can be adjusted from fine to aggressive for the right amount of traction."

How aggressive can be done?

I know it will never match the current USN antiskid that has chunks of flint , but great traction is still a requirement .
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Old 09-06-2019, 06:45 AM   #16
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"By using one of KiwiGrip's proprietary rollers (sold separately) and by varying application technique, the texture can be adjusted from fine to aggressive for the right amount of traction."

How aggressive can be done?

I know it will never match the current USN antiskid that has chunks of flint , but great traction is still a requirement .
The level of aggressiveness is a function of how thick a coating you apply and how much you roll it. My swim platform is around 100 grit sandpaper. Most of the boat decks are much more aggressive. A few spots are uncomfortable to walk on barefoot. Basically it goes on with the thickness of cake frosting and then shrinks some as it dries. You want to do several test squares (1' x 1') on cardboard or scrap wood to determine the thickness and amount of rolling to get the desired effect you want. There are a number of videos on the internet showing technique and results.

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Old 09-06-2019, 10:17 AM   #17
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I believe Howard (the guy who losses shoes) had his done ar Grand Banks in Stuart. You may want to pick his brain (possibly a bribe with a pair of shoes).
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Old 09-06-2019, 10:48 AM   #18
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I painted the top of the hardtop over our sundeck with Kiwigrip. I didnít want it very aggressive so I used a regular roller. It isnít very aggressive but looks great. With their roller you will get a pretty aggressive non skid. If you roll it once and let it sit for a bit then roll it again you will get extremely aggressive non skid.
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Old 09-07-2019, 06:48 AM   #19
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On my old 34 Monk, I redid the rear cockpit, stripping down to wood. On the suggestion of an old timer (got to be careful of that phrase, since by definition, I guess I AM one now!) I put down West System Epoxy, first coat, while still tacky, I sprinkled clay type kitty litter on the epoxy to the "traction level" that I desired. Then put on second coat of West System. The epoxy, soaked into the clay kitty litter, creating an epoxy reinforced matrix. The epoxy also smoothed over the bits of kitty litter, rounding them off. Then finished off with Awlgrip. When I sold the boat 4 years later, it still looked brand new. Hint: make sure you use Marine Grade kitty litter!
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Old 09-13-2019, 03:53 PM   #20
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Paint instead of remove and save $14000

I got a price to remove, glass and paint the decks on my '73 gb 42 for $15,000 in cape Canaveral FL. Painted with tuff coat for $600 myself. Two years later my creme colored no skid surface looks great. I know many consider what I did a very bad idea but I would do it again in heart beat. Clean, prime, paint with roller. Enough left over to touch up the high traffic areas which I have not had to do. Comes in a rainbow of colors. No regrets. My teak was in decent shape, some minor+ leaks, but cost of refinishing/ calking was just not rational. Tuff coat holds up well on fuel spills and also eliminated my leaks.
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