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Old 09-04-2012, 07:32 PM   #1
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Teak veneer/panel repair/replacement

Greetings,

I have a 1979 Choey Lee 46 LRC.

The pilothouse teak veneer in some places is separating. Other teak panels show some water/sun damage, I'm sure others have been down this road, would like to get some insight on the best approach to repair or replace.
including sources for new teak panels and veneer, thanks in advance

Ron
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:35 PM   #2
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I lost a piece of teak veneer about 4 X 6 ft. in my companionway when the cold water side of my shower hose popped off and pumped a portion of the wall full of water. I was off the boat for 30 hours, and that's when it happened. I tried my best to match the teak, but there was a pattern along the companionway that was impossible to match. I settled for a custom framed fiberglass mirror that simply reflects the teak around it and didn't change the feel or look of the area.

I don't know how large the pieces are that are damaged in your boat, or, how much teak you have there, but if you can get close to matching the tone of the old teak, you might want to take the opportunity to replace sections large enough to give some kind of uniform look. The other idea is to use whatever other materials are present to frame customs lights, switches, panels, duct grilles, or whatever else you can think of.

Matching teak can be done, but matching an installed panel that age is nearly impossible. 1/4" teak veneer plywood is available locally here in Miami for 99 bucks per sheet, and teak veneer in large rolls can often be found in most large custom lumber yards. A good carpenter can play with different stains for the tone and finish.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by healhustler View Post

Matching teak can be done, but matching an installed panel that age is nearly impossible. 1/4" teak veneer plywood is available locally here in Miami for 99 bucks per sheet, and teak veneer in large rolls can often be found in most large custom lumber yards. A good carpenter can play with different stains for the tone and finish.
I have had good luck helping both teak and cherry panels to "age" quickly. By placing the panels in direct sunlight the UV process can be jump started. The problem with matching the panels by staining them is that the UV will change the color anyway. Just place them in direct sunlight until they have changed a good bit, then stain if needed. You can also add corners or scribe moldings to cover slight misfits. If you carefully make a template that probably won't be necessary.
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:16 AM   #4
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I have used teak HPL inside lockers and in high wear areas. After a good bronze wooling and a few coats of clear PU you could not tell.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:57 AM   #5
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Greetings,
Welcome aboard Mr. oh. I am also looking for solutions to de-laminating panels. Where are you located?
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:07 PM   #6
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Thanks for all of the replies!!, The boat is currently behind my house in Key Largo, FL
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:30 AM   #7
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When I was re-doing the faded fake wood laminate "dashboard" and rear window counter on my boat, I used this stuff:
PSA - Pressure Sensitive Veneer - New Sizes! - Rockler Woodworking Tools
It's real wood, can be sanded and varnished, etc and all you need is a smooth surface to stick it to. I put Cetol on after installing it, and it's been on for about 5 years, looks as good as when it went down, and no delamination. Sticky stuff on the back is a 3M product that works very well.
Depending on the application, you might need a small trim piece at the edges.
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