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Old 06-05-2015, 07:06 PM   #61
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Greetings,
Holy crapola. 60 posts!. Mr. Cheech. Scrape to smooth wood, sand and put on more coats of Cetol than last time. You'll be fine.
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:06 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by manyboats View Post
OK so someomne else says it dosn't mildew. Do you actually think Tung oil dosn't mildew?
Mine hasn't in 6 months.....

Why are only some experts OK on TF and not others?
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:08 PM   #63
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expert=previous drop of water under high pressure being forced through a small orifice.
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:26 PM   #64
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"This is the ideal product to use on collector grade stocks and other wood products. Tung oil builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and builds a transparent matte finish. Pure Tung Oil finish will not mildew or bleed like linseed oil when dry, which makes it an excellent candidate for outdoor finishes. "

Pure Tung Oil


Pure Tung Oil ( all natural 100% pure tung oil ):
Tung Oil is an all-natural, non-toxic, food safe wood finish, containing NO VOC's. Pure Tung Oil is a natural polymerizing wood finish with a nutty odor and contains no thinners, driers or any additives. Pure and Simple! This Tung Oil is Grade 1 yellow, clear in color, water and alcohol resistant, will not darken, and will never peel or crack. Tung Oil provides a durable protective barrier against water, stain resistant, food acid resistant, mar resistant and a flexible wood finish that will not mold.


http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.c...il-Finish.html


Pure Tung Oil Features
  • High environmental standards
  • 100% VOC free
  • 100% chemical free
  • FDA approved for food contact
  • Organic and all natural
  • Hand rubbed
  • Naturally polymerizing finish
  • Cures by oxidation not evaporation
  • Does not form a glossy finish no matter the number of coats
  • Form a flexible water proof finish
  • Resists abrasion and acids
  • Does not blister and peel (properly applied)
  • Does not mold like linseed oil
  • Does not darken with time like linseed oil
http://www.jmxbamboo.com/tung-oil.aspx




Need more??????
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:50 PM   #65
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In my frustrated search for the product requiring the least maintenance, I tried several commercially packaged teak oils on the market. At least here in Florida, I think it may be too hot for successful oil applications. The heat tends to make the oil weep and the sure footedness that one enjoys with teak is all but compromised. Twice I've had major spills of used motor oil that soaked into my natural teak veranda sole for weeks while away from the boat. In both cases, the oil stains weeped out over about 8 to 10 months and it was again clean. Now, after having scraped and sanded everything, I'm getting ready to do the Cetol treatment on my rail cap, steps and trim. For the veranda sole, I'm going to try sealer only. It doesn't require the labor that varnish or Cetol requires, but will probably require a light power-wash and reseal twice per year.
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:04 AM   #66
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PSNeeld: I think the issue with using pure ting oil on a teak caprail might be the amount of time required between coats. The Canadian woodworking article you referenced stated:

"Getting good results requires using the right techniques and not being in a hurry. I would allow at least a week between coats, although I have heard of people doing it faster with good results. There are many other finishes better suited to a tight schedule; varnishes, lacquers, and even BLO."


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Old 06-07-2015, 11:53 AM   #67
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psneeld I quote one of your links ...
"Tung Oil provides a durable protective barrier against water, stain resistant, food acid resistant, mar resistant and a flexible wood finish that will not mold. Pure Tung Oil is a durable all natural wood finish, and perfect for interior wood surfaces such as wood floors, cabinets, paneling, wood furniture and children's toys."
But they only recommend it for interior applications probably because it will turn black w mold if used outside. Children's toys is not the subject matter here.

Thanks for the interesting links though.
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Old 06-07-2015, 03:26 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by healhustler View Post
In my frustrated search for the product requiring the least maintenance, I tried several commercially packaged teak oils on the market. At least here in Florida, I think it may be too hot for successful oil applications. The heat tends to make the oil weep and the sure footedness that one enjoys with teak is all but compromised. Twice I've had major spills of used motor oil that soaked into my natural teak veranda sole for weeks while away from the boat. In both cases, the oil stains weeped out over about 8 to 10 months and it was again clean. Now, after having scraped and sanded everything, I'm getting ready to do the Cetol treatment on my rail cap, steps and trim. For the veranda sole, I'm going to try sealer only. It doesn't require the labor that varnish or Cetol requires, but will probably require a light power-wash and reseal twice per year.
I can highly recommend Epithanes Wood Finish for your sole. That's what we put on the teak and oak (yep turned out it was oak) aft deck of our Hatteras, as well as the stairway to the flying bridge and it stood up to tremendous abuse from footsteps, furniture, fresh and salt water, sunshine, spills, you name it. Very easy to apply as you don't have to sand between coats. We used the gloss o the aft deck, others prefer the satin, which we did use on various interior stairs from salon to galley. I read some of the posts on this thread and just shake my head at what people go through in application and maintenance.
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Old 06-07-2015, 03:55 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats View Post
psneeld I quote one of your links ...
"Tung Oil provides a durable protective barrier against water, stain resistant, food acid resistant, mar resistant and a flexible wood finish that will not mold. Pure Tung Oil is a durable all natural wood finish, and perfect for interior wood surfaces such as wood floors, cabinets, paneling, wood furniture and children's toys."
But they only recommend it for interior applications probably because it will turn black w mold if used outside. Children's toys is not the subject matter here.

Thanks for the interesting links though.
Where does it say not recommended for exterior? Not in any links I provided. Most say how good it is.
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:28 PM   #70
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Psneeld I have a pint of "100% Pure Tung Oil" in a metal rectangular can and it says "for INTERIOR USE" .... Like that. Your link dosn't say "not for exterior use" either but they are not talking about boats and it seems obvious to me why not. Much was said about floors, tables and children's furniture but no exterior use was mentioned. Tung oil is a tree oil like linseed oil so I don't see why it should behave any differently in this regard but I really don't know. I've never used Tung oil other than as an ingredient of varnish. I've used Linseed oil both ways and of course it turns black if given enough time.

I never did put the raw LO on straight though as it's rather thick. Turpentine aids brush ability and reduces the tendency of LO turning black or dark because it's a natural fungicide. And I used LO and turp for several years applying more every 4 to 6 weeks. I suspect that it stayed bright because the turp kept the fungus in check. But I've never used Tung oil this way. Perhaps someone else has?
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:35 PM   #71
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Read carefully..the links all refer to exterior use..Including the history of tung oil all the way back to ancient Chinese junks.

You can keep denying it but I am sitting and looking at my unmildewed rails reading numerous links that agree.

Just want others to know...who they believe is up to them.
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:42 PM   #72
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From my first link....

Myth #3
BLO is just like tung oil, but better and cheaper.
Sorry, but that’s wrong too. Comparing BLO (boiled linseed oil) to (pure) tung oil is like comparing apples to oranges. So let’s look at both:

Notice where the writer disagrees with you..just like me.

I have actually used pure tung oil on the exterior where you say you have not.

Guess what?
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:02 PM   #73
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I don't need to read carefully. I have no intention of using teak oil on my boat other than as part of a varnish. If I ever have a reason to really know I'll dig back into it. I do recall though that there was a thread dealing w just Tung oil as a boat finish. If you want to argue about this go find someone that's more motivated. In the meantime I'm going to assume Tung oil turns black over time much the way LO does.
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:38 PM   #74
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For the record...my rails don't look bristol and I don't care.

My boat is one or two steps up from work boat finish as I go through a 5 year major refit while cruising 4 to 5 months a year covering 2500 miles each year.

I take care of her by myself with no help or cash to pay someone.

Someday either all the wood will disappear or what little is left might look better.

But for now, time versus looks is critical. Not saying it can't look better, I just don't have the time right now for perfect aesthetics.

While not showboat..it looks better than it has for the last 10 years, 5 with the PO and 5 with me. The tung was a decision where once stripped, the most work is a quick wash and more coats.

Minutes versus hours and weeks. For 75 to 90 percent bristol looks...I will take it.
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Old 06-07-2015, 08:54 PM   #75
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psneeld I had no idea you were using the stuff.

Here's how my rails looked w the LO and turp in Alaska. The Tung oil probably looks about the same. Do you brush it on or use a rag? With a brush more oil went on and ran down vertical surfaces and I didn't clean the runs very good. Second pic is ready for another coating. Rarely did I let it get that bad. The runs can be clearly seen. Wasn't very fussy in Alaska. Went about unshaven more often too.

First pic entering Red Bay prepared to drop the XYZ anchor.
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:01 PM   #76
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Old 06-07-2015, 09:26 PM   #77
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Greetings,
Mr. ps. Ohhhh...we're supposed to read the posts. I thought it was simply note who the poster was and disagree...I'll try that sometime.

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Old 06-07-2015, 09:44 PM   #78
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RTF.....You QBBL ..you...
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:38 PM   #79
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Post #62
Opps ....
Sorry I missed that. Actually I remember reading it and for a brief moment thinking "his what"? I know it dosn't make any sense but I missed the essence.

Anyway I'm glad there's an experiment in progress. Don't know any others using Tung oil. So perhaps you don't see it as an experiment since you believe it proven. None the less (whatever that means) I hope you keep us posted. Lots of guys are keen on a solution to the high labor end to varnish. And those w high tech coatings probably could use something more user friendly and cheaper that produces an acceptable finish.
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Old 06-08-2015, 02:48 AM   #80
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Back to the future for a second. I, like psneeld, am a bit lazy when it comes to trying to fight unwinnable battles, and also used to accepting imperfection, so for mine, exterior teak gets Cetol marine clear, recoated with minimal sanding yearly - works for me.
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