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Old 01-02-2019, 11:36 AM   #1
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Teak Refinishing Time

I have found lots of threads on the use of Cetol and that is what I am going to use. This will be a complete strip, sand and refinish on my 35 year old trawler - window frames, cap rails & doors. My question is for those that have used Cetol, did you thin the first coat or two to get started or just use straight out of the can? If you thinned, what product did you use?

Thanks for the advice!

John
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Old 01-02-2019, 12:07 PM   #2
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Cetol is not to be thinned, bare wood needs a wipe down with Interlux 206 solvent. We just brush the first thin coat in very well and then tip it off in the direction of the grain. Three or 4 coats and good to go, some people apply Cetol Gloss after the normal Cetol, we do not apply gloss just Cetol Natural, we like the satin look. Next year just a wipe down with a white scotchbrite and another coat of natural.
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Old 01-02-2019, 12:10 PM   #3
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No thinning. We started with 3 coats of their Light and then 3 coats of Gloss. We do sand with 180 grit between the Light and the Gloss and also when we do maintenance coats. We only do the cap rail with Cetol.
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Old 01-02-2019, 12:35 PM   #4
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No thinning. We started with 3 coats of their Light and then 3 coats of Gloss. We do sand with 180 grit between the Light and the Gloss and also when we do maintenance coats. We only do the cap rail with Cetol.
Exactly as I did for over 15 years. Great results. NO THINNING.
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Old 01-02-2019, 08:34 PM   #5
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No thinning then. Fantastic. One less step. Thanks to all for the advice.

Larry m - hope my cap rail looks half that good when complete

John
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:59 PM   #6
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Refinished all the exterior bright work on my 49 Defever this past summer. Used a heat gun and scraper down to bare wood, then sanded with 150 grit paper. Next was 3 coats unthinned Cetol, then 2 coats of Cetol Gloss.
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:05 AM   #7
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I’m also a long time Cetol user. A great way to save on sand paper and time if you are stripping the old coating down to bare teak is to use floor sander sand paper. The grit will quickly remove the old coatings, then you can switch to finer paper grit to finish and smooth the teak surface.
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:52 AM   #8
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If you are going to strip. This hand scraper and a heat gun is all that is needed. (Cheap heat gun is fine) You will be surprised at how efficient these scrapers are. Just feels right in your hand and works beautifully. Carbide blades available in different shapes. Most good hardware stores will stock them.

https://www.japanwoodworker.com/prod...craper-sandvik
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Old 01-04-2019, 03:54 PM   #9
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Great tips from all - many thanks for your assistance.

Let the refinishing experience begin

John
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:39 PM   #10
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I agree with Easting post #8 a heat gun, combined wit pusher or pull type scraper followed by light sanding, works very well for stripping Cetol. Don't thin the Cetol, I use 3 coats of Natural and one of gloss with a pass of Scotch pad between coats.
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Old 01-09-2019, 10:40 PM   #11
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Tru dat.
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Old 01-10-2019, 02:16 PM   #12
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do you have do yearly top coating with cetol like with varnish ? me teak is natural and looks rough . i need to do something. but i'm not sure i can keep up with the yearly coatings with all the other projects. i also was wondering about how a good teak-oil bath would hold up.
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Old 01-10-2019, 02:55 PM   #13
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do you have do yearly top coating with cetol like with varnish ? me teak is natural and looks rough . i need to do something. but i'm not sure i can keep up with the yearly coatings with all the other projects. i also was wondering about how a good teak-oil bath would hold up.
We do annual maintenance on the Cetol. Two coats if there arenít any areas to repair.

On our last boat we let it go gray. The only problem was the next owner tried to bring it back for varnish and he almost lost the battle. There was so much soft grain loss, that the new owners really had to sand to get it smooth enough for the varnish.
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:11 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by timb View Post
do you have do yearly top coating with cetol like with varnish ? me teak is natural and looks rough . i need to do something. but i'm not sure i can keep up with the yearly coatings with all the other projects. i also was wondering about how a good teak-oil bath would hold up.
Maybe research Deks Olje. Oil saturation, which can be followed by a gloss if you wish. In 9 years I`ve not had to go back to bare wood. And initially, I was able to choose how far to sand back for the initial oil saturation process, some of my cappings were deeply grooved due to being left bare and I didn`t want to lose heaps of height by hard sanding. Won`t look as good as Cetol etc, but for me, quite acceptable. Does need annual recoat, but it ain`t hard.
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Old 01-10-2019, 05:58 PM   #15
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Maybe research Deks Olje. Oil saturation, which can be followed by a gloss if you wish..
sounds like what I need. did you use the gloss? where did you buy it?
thanks
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:00 PM   #16
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I'm a convert from Cetol to Deks Olje. I'd never go back to Cetol.

I have seen excellent Awlwood finish, but my local retailers don't stock it, and would need to order it in. I want to be able to pick up a can more easily than doing that.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:03 PM   #17
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On our last boat we let it go gray. The only problem was the next owner tried to bring it back for varnish and he almost lost the battle. There was so much soft grain loss, that the new owners really had to sand to get it smooth enough for the varnish.
that's what I think I'm dealing with I sanded the grates at the bow and stairs to the flybridge and stopped before they were smooth due to all the height loss. then I soaked them 3 days in a row with teak oil . there better but not perfect.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:13 PM   #18
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sounds like what I need. did you use the gloss? where did you buy it?
thanks
Yes, I do use the gloss as well. It just seems to "gradually disappear" over a year. I get it at chandlers, but I`m in Australia so try some searches.
The oil saturation process takes about 5 hours, applying and applying with a brush until the wood won`t take any more, that`s the hard part. Then add gloss, maybe 5 coats, it goes on easily. Each year I apply oil using a scratchy pad,give it a good wipe to remove any debris, followed by 2 coats of gloss. Once you`ve done it, the maintenance process is easy. If you think you are getting a build up you can sand lightly, but I think from memory you use a coarse grade to get the oil into the wood,the one time I did I used the sandpaper to apply the oil. The process is quite tolerant of variations,it`s hard to mess it up. The big plus is never(so far) having to take it right back to raw teak again.
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:03 PM   #19
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following. We used Deks Olje all the time when we we were in the hot Philippine sun. But once we left Asia, I have been unable to find it anywhere. We've switched to Semco Natural....it works well, too.
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Old 01-15-2019, 07:16 AM   #20
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following. We used Deks Olje all the time when we we were in the hot Philippine sun. But once we left Asia, I have been unable to find it anywhere. We've switched to Semco Natural....it works well, too.
i found deks at amazon .a 2.5 L is 100 $ shipped there is another seller that has it for 250 and it appears to be the same thing. did the semco natural work the same. i want something to protect the wood that is easy to maintain.
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