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11-28-2017, 09:01 PM
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#1
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Guru
City: Port Townsend
Vessel Name: The Promise
Vessel Model: Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,569
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Teak oil
Seem like quite a few swim step projects going on. I’m re-doing ours, the base frame is teak and I’m making the deck slats from Jatoba. I’m picked up some of this teak oil today. What say you?
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11-28-2017, 11:48 PM
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#2
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Guru
City: Anacortes
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,189
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I say teak oil used outdoors does not last very long. I know it's a swim step, but I might just let it go grey. Better than the black that damp teak oil feeds the black moldy critters.
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11-29-2017, 12:14 AM
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#3
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,293
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No knowledge of "Amazon`s Golden Teak Oil" (Amazon, maybe unrelated, just set up shop here), but application of Deks Olje#1 requires initial saturation and then maintenance. My swimstep is just oiled (no added gloss finish#2) and has never gone black. Looks way better than left grey, and won`t develop the ridging of being left unprotected.
__________________
BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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11-29-2017, 12:47 AM
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#4
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Guru
City: Port Townsend
Vessel Name: The Promise
Vessel Model: Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,569
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It’s not “Amazon”...
MDR Products
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12-12-2017, 12:39 PM
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#5
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Member
City: Charlotte
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10
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I'm new to this teak maintenance and have/like to redo our swim deck. I was thinking two coats of Cetrol with antiskid powder scattered on wet second coat and then a thrid coat after that dried. I'd welcome comments yea or nay.
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12-12-2017, 11:53 PM
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#6
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Guru
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 37
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,107
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Hi,
On all of my boats, the cockpit, the side decks and the swim platform were teak. I never oil them, just wash a soft brush crossing the tree line with salty water (keep the green growth out of) the cockpit rinse with the fresh water.
Teak silver is its natural color and I feel okay. Keep teak as it never slips wet and dries quickly. There is an endless workplace to keep teak gold in brown and use a strong acid again before oiling, it will consume the surface unevenly and quickly before premature wear.
NBs
Old boat swiming p..
NT bow deck
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12-13-2017, 06:32 AM
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#7
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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I also ascribe to the "nothing" finish on exterior teak decks and platforms, just like North Baltic. Much better non-skid properties and no maintenance beyond clean salt water and soft brush as noted.
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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12-13-2017, 09:50 AM
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#8
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Guru
City: Philadelphia, PA
Vessel Name: Revel
Vessel Model: 1984 Fu Hwa 39
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,024
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I think that a careful read of the label on the package will be revealing. Unlike, say, Olive oil, Tung oil, Canola oil, Turpentine derived from Pitch Pine, etc., there is no such thing as Teak oil. Like Thompson's Water Seal, and similar common snake oils, tung oil is not very valuable and eventually evaporates.
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12-13-2017, 10:33 AM
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#9
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,738
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Wood needs protection .. even teak.
I mix my own “teak oil”.
One can get a bit too much oil and it gets sticky and shiny in places. The only way to control the oil is to make your own teak oil. I do.
I use mostly turpentine or kerosene as a vehicle. I use kerosene for the first application or two and turp thereafter. Kerosene is best for penetration. Got that from R. D. Culler who has been one of the leading experts on wood boats and finishing wood. He says kerosene “drives the oil into the wood”.
For the oil one can use 30w engine lube oil, new or used. I did that when I was a truck driver mostly w wood decked flatbeds. Just 100% oil. It sorta dried up fairly soon and worked fairly well. I thought it was going to rot the wood but if it did it did it very slowly. Over ten years or so there was no roting of wood.
On the boat I used linseed oil. Tung oil is known to be better only a very slight margin IMO. Most all oil based paint is based on linseed oil. Use “raw” oil for best penetration. Use “boiled” for a less oily/dry surface. Use Japan drier and boiled oil w the oil in smaller quantities .. as in lower percentages of the total mix. Also I usually added a quite small amount of oil based varnish. Very easy to get too much varnish and cause build on top of the wood but varnish helps water bead up on the finish and less frequent coating will be required.
Build is not wanted or desired if it is to be an oil finish. But the above is an excellent base for varnish top coats. Better than epoxy IMO as the oil penetrates much deeper in the wood. If you get build in places it will first appear shiny. Sand off the build only where it’s shiny. Apply more oil and wipe off the excess.
There are probably other additives like stain. But I’ve not tried that. May be a broblem getting it on even and will probably be very obvious. May be easy and would like to know if it is. A botched up stain job w uneven color may be very hard to “fix”.
Some sort of wood preservative on wood that’s not teak may help longevity but again haven’t tried it.
One of the greatest advantages of mixing your own is that you can vary the quanties or proportions of oil, vehicle, varnish and additives. Or the kind of oil, vehicle or other element of the mix. For example you wouldn’t want drier or varnish on the first coats. You would probably want to use raw oil for the first few apps and boiled oil thereafter. Japan drier only on the last coats ect. With a commercial product such things can’t be controled.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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12-13-2017, 12:04 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
City: Victoria, BC
Vessel Name: Timeless
Vessel Model: CHB 34
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK
No knowledge of "Amazon`s Golden Teak Oil" (Amazon, maybe unrelated, just set up shop here), but application of Deks Olje#1 requires initial saturation and then maintenance. My swimstep is just oiled (no added gloss finish#2) and has never gone black. Looks way better than left grey, and won`t develop the ridging of being left unprotected.
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Another vote for Deks Olje. It’s worked well for us
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12-13-2017, 01:23 PM
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#11
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Guru
City: Aventura FL
Vessel Name: Kinja
Vessel Model: American Tug 34 #116 2008
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10,595
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I can only speak historically because the AT34 does not have any external teak (BIG SMILE) There are so many things I like about my AT.
On my N46, I had the teak rail cap (approx. 8 inch wide) done twice a year. I got tired of the expense so I had it stripped and let it go gray. I caught so much grief from those boater around me soooo, I went the expense of having the rail cap redone with a two part process. Shined like a new penny. I got lots of compliments
After 3 years, only one spot needed to be redone, a rail cap of one of the gates.
My add-on swim platform was constructed of reclaimed teak. I never did anything to it so it turned a pleasing gray and was not slippery.
__________________
Two days out the hospital after a week in the hospital because of a significant heart attack.
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12-13-2017, 02:24 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Quote:
Wood needs protection .. even teak.
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No, it doesn't. Take a stroll around the parks of London some day and check out all those 150 year old silvery grey teak benches. Or all those cedar shingled and redwood shingled houses on both coasts. Oils and finishes are for cosmetics on teak.
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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12-13-2017, 02:58 PM
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#13
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,738
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caltex,
I’ve got a small piece of teak on my radar platform that is speckled w black mould and the wood grain has opened up so much that you could say it’s trashed. However it still supports the running light.
We have more teak around part of the cabin eve 1” wide and the grain is open but not as bad as the other teak. When the grain opens up dirt and organic stuff can enter the crack and cause moisture to build up causing water to be ever present causing mould and eventially rot. Teak is great but eventially it will go south. It’s not plastic or SS.
But I haven’t seen any part of London.
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Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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12-13-2017, 03:02 PM
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#14
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Guru
City: Aventura FL
Vessel Name: Kinja
Vessel Model: American Tug 34 #116 2008
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10,595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc
No, it doesn't. Take a stroll around the parks of London some day and check out all those 150 year old silvery grey teak benches. Or all those cedar shingled and redwood shingled houses on both coasts. Oils and finishes are for cosmetics on teak.
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150 years ago there was a lot of 'heart wood". Today, very few trees are permitted to grow long enough to produce serious "heart wood".
__________________
Two days out the hospital after a week in the hospital because of a significant heart attack.
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12-13-2017, 04:43 PM
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#15
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Guru
City: Port Townsend
Vessel Name: The Promise
Vessel Model: Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,569
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Here’s what it looks like with what I bought, next time it needs something I will consider all the great suggestions.
Hi
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12-14-2017, 03:14 PM
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#16
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Guru
City: Warwick, RI
Vessel Name: Susan Helena
Vessel Model: Albin40
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 523
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Holland America uses Teak Renewer once a week. It's a dry acid mixed with water and applied to the teak. On the ship they wet down the teak and then scatter the Renewer by hand on the decks. Then they follow up with a scotchbrite pad on a floor buffer and a good rinse. The decks are beautiful. Teak Renewer is available on the web. I know most of us don't want to be overly aggressive with our teak, but it works great on the ships.
http://wssproducts.wilhelmsen.com/ma...renewerx-20-kg
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12-14-2017, 04:22 PM
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#17
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike66
Holland America uses Teak Renewer once a week. It's a dry acid mixed with water and applied to the teak...
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Explains why their decks look so good. Contrast the teak decks on Carnival, failed caulk,loosening planks, water squelch under planks, and I`m guessing, rusty steel deck underneath.
I leave my teak decks alone, cost heaps to renew them, I`m not abrading them away. But on cappings etc, I believe in applying a finish (Deks Olje 1 & usually 2 as well), the PO did not, cappings were ridged in exposed areas.
__________________
BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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12-14-2017, 07:56 PM
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#18
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Guru
City: Philadelphia, PA
Vessel Name: Revel
Vessel Model: 1984 Fu Hwa 39
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,024
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Keep in mind that those cruise ships will be scrapped long before they reach the age that lots of our trawlers are. Additionally, the Teak is thicker and they have the staff to keep 'em pretty.
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12-14-2017, 08:25 PM
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#19
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Guru
City: Aventura FL
Vessel Name: Kinja
Vessel Model: American Tug 34 #116 2008
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10,595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHeckrotte
Keep in mind that those cruise ships will be scrapped long before they reach the age that lots of our trawlers are. Additionally, the Teak is thicker and they have the staff to keep 'em pretty.
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The US battle ships had teak decks and a crew to groom them with holy stones.
__________________
Two days out the hospital after a week in the hospital because of a significant heart attack.
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12-14-2017, 10:43 PM
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#20
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Guru
City: Beverly Hills
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,371
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Holy stones and salt water !
I use a 3M pad on a pole sander and lots of salt water, work great with less blisters and aching backs.
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