Teak and Holly Interior Finish?

[Tony B]

I am almost finished with my new teak and holly sole in my salon.
What would be the best floor finish for interior salon?
Here is a pic of my Test fitting of the floor boards

 

[Tom.B]

I just used eight coats Rustoleum Poly clear satin. Water-based and dried quickly between coats. Looks fine. Only had it a couple of though. Long-term hold up is currently unknown.

 

[Marin]

That's almost as loaded a question as how many engines are best.

Boat manufactures like American Marine/Grand Banks used many coats of varnish.

The crew of a corporate yacht I was associated with for awhile used a waxoil product from New Zealand that did a wonderful job of masking scratches (from guest's shoes) hard to see, was a beautiful finish, and was easy to touch up. It's initial application was somewhat exacting but we were considering this for when we get around to refinishing the parquet sole in our boat. We have since decided to do something else.

Floor finishes is a long-running topic of discussion on the Grand Banks forum with several excellent processes described in detail from the likes of Bob Lowe and others, Grand Banks Owner's Resources. Put "refinishing cabin sole" or some such in the archives search and read away.

There are also some good water-based polyurethane finishes on the market now. As a result of a multi-year "experiment" with the inside step to our main cabin we will most likely use one of these, Daly's SeaFin Aquaspar satin finish, on our cabin sole when we get round to refinishing it.

Seven or eight coats of it has held up amazingly well since we applied it to the inside step through the main cabin door some four or five years ago. Everyone steps on it, including the dog, every time they enter or leave the boat and the step today looks pretty much exactly like it did when we installed after re-finhishing with the Dalys product. So we're pretty much sold on it.

But there are lots of options. The factory varnish finish on our parquet sole has held up amazingly well for the last 40 years. In fact it's hard to believe it's the original finish, but it is. Not that it won't benefit from a refinishing but that's more to get out the dings and gouges rather than replace a failing finish. Wherever the parquet has not been subject to things being dropped or dragged on it the original varnish finish is in excellent shape. The process and product that was used back then by the factory is described in the archives of the GB forum, probably several times.

But I think we'll stick with our Dalys' plan if for no other reason than we've been so impressed with its performance on our step.

 

[CPseudonym]

Tony, no recommendation for finish. Just wish to say it looks great so far.

 

[FF]

Most any finish will do IF the holly stands proud to create a traditional no skid surface.

If the teak & holly is flat (just for looks) bowling alley or gymnasium varnish has no skid properties when wet.

 

[LaBomba]

Most any finish will do IF the holly stands proud to create a traditional no skid surface.

If the teak & holly is flat (just for looks) bowling alley or gymnasium varnish has no skid properties when wet.

Good suggestion FF. A fellow I know gave me a 5 gallon pail of bowling alley varnish years ago and I used it for many things. It was truly amazing stuff, hard, and hard to scratch, no peeling. It's all gone now but I would definitely try to find some more when/if I have to redo my sole.

 

[Alfton]

I chose varnish over water base poly products because I wanted a "warm" finish. I used Defthane available at Blackburn

 

[Tony B]

.......... I used Defthane available at Blackburn

Which Defthane product did you use?
Someone else that does a lot of commercial work around here recommended the Defthane Acrylic Polyurethane. I would like to spray what I can and brush the perimeter. the advantage of acrylic is it dries real fast (2 hrs) but it is clear and I dont think it will give that warm finish. the only thing that worries me about Defthane is that it is comparatively cheap.
I have Blackburn commercial account.
Thanks in advance
Tony B

 

[Nomad Willy]

Most varnishes are very soft. Not what you'd want on your floors. The System Three water base stuff is much harder but is a very thin coating.

Any paint store has deck and floor finishes specifically formulated for scuff and abrasion resistance.

Before I used Rustoleum squirt paint or spar varnish I'd go to a paint store (not Lowes or Home Depot) and find out. Or talk to floor finishers that have lots of specialized finishes and experience w floors. That's probably the best source.

I just read your post Marin. Daly's should be a very good source. Is "Daly's SeaFin Aquaspar Satin Finish" one of those water based polly finishes? Did they know you were going to be walking on it? They are supposed to be quite hard and may be fine but the word "spar" is in it's name. One dosn't walk on spars but a spar varnish should be ok if it's hard enough. But basically I think one should put floor finishes on floors.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. Tony B. IF you're intending on spraying, keep in mind the whole of the volume of the area (saloon) will be filled with atomized particles of whatever finish you choose and will settle out on anything and everything, headliner included. Multiply this by 6 to 8 "applications" and I suspect you may find an unacceptable amount of said finish in or on areas you don't want it. Brush only application would cause you a minimum of masking/tenting of "sensitive" areas. Just a thought...

 

[fryedaze]

We finished the floors in Frydaze last winter. Being a cheap SOB always looking for better-cheaper, I researched polyurethan floor finish. I chose Rustoleum Pro series (350 VOC) gloss finish. Gloss is always a harder finish. The poly has an amber tint similar to varnish. This is not a waterbase product. I am not a fan of waterbase poly. It tends to whiten rather than have a rich amber color. We put four coats down and it looks great. I started with a lambs wool pad for aplication but stopped due to finding wool in the finish. I layed the poly with a good foam brush. The job took one gallon of product with sanding on the first and third coats. Drying time is pretty quick and if you recoat before 15 hours there in no need for sanding.
Dave

 

[Marin]

Is "Daly's SeaFin Aquaspar Satin Finish" one of those water based polly finishes? Did they know you were going to be walking on it?

The Daly's SeaFin Aquaspar is a water-borne polyurethane. I think the "spar" is in there just to make it sound nautical. In addition to other types of applications, wood floors is one of the uses listed on the can.

Daly's also makes a couple of hard finishes specifically for floors. One is a two-part waterborne product and the other is an oil-based product. They are supposed to be very hard and ideal for high-traffic areas. We have never tried these.

 

[caltexflanc]

I have teak and oak (of all things) on the aft deck of my boat that takes a tremendous amount of beating from heavy furniture being moved around and sat in, on it, water from people coming up from the swim platform, or when rain gets in or I overflow the water tank fill which is back there, the sun, etc etc. in year-around full time live aboard use; the aft deck is the most used part of the boat. About 4 years ago we had it completely redone using Epiphanes Wood Finish, Gloss. Also comes in satin. Terrific durability and results.

We also put it on a teak stairway to the flying bridge, and a year later used the satin on the stairs to the galley and lower companion way, very high traffic areas. Wouldn't use anything else myself after seeing how this stuff stands up. One advantage of Wood Finish is you don't have to sand between coats, see their web site for details. Somewhat pricey, but very low long term cost of ownership and less labor due to not having to sand between coats. I wouldn't be surprised if it is similar to the bowling alley and gym floor products, one difference being UV resistance in the Epiphanes.

 

[Tony B]

Spraying

I used to have a commercial woodworking business. The new owner lets me use the shop anytime I want if I am not in his way. I have access to commercial spray equipment and have sprayed for over 30 years.
As for my salon sole, 95% of is drop in boards. Look at the photo closely and you will notice that the T&H you are looking at are all drop in boards. The drop-in boards will be sprayed at the shop.The little bit of perimeter that is permanent flooring will be hand brushed.
I have been using Epifanes on my exterior woodwork for many years and I really like it. It sprays well also. I am also considering it in the running. Then main reason I am thinking acrylic is because of the recoat - time every 2 hours. I can apply 4 coats in one day and that should be sufficient I would think.Then let everything rest/cure for a day or two and then put it into service.
If I go with an acrylic, I can use a neutral stain first or a compatible finish as a first coat that will give me the amber color. I have til Saturday to make up my mind because that is when I will begin.
Thanks for all of the replies and keep them coming.

Oh, I forgot, my woodworking experience is in designing and building furniture and antique restoration. I have virtually no experience in construction related items such as floor finishing.

 

[bshanafelt]

Used Floor-Fin by Daly's on hardwood floors for 20+ years with very good success. It is a poly finish.

sponge mop it on. When you get scratches, just apply another coat. About once every 5 years in a house.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. Tony B. Understood. I have no opinion of finishes. For THOSE without Mr. Tony B's. experience, my advice still stands. It (spraying) seems such an EASY process and for the most part, it can be. Just be aware of all the ramifications.

 

[caltexflanc]

By the way, teak is a very different animal than hardwoods due to the oil content and grain structure. So sauce for the goose does not necessarily fit the gander.

 

[Tony B]

...... Just be aware of all the ramifications.

Yes, thanks for pointing that out. There are many ramifications when using a spray gun.

 

[Tony B]

...... teak is a very different animal than hardwoods due to the oil content and grain structure. ......

You bring up a good point, however, there is nothing mystical or magical about teak and many other hardwoods that have an oily content. One good surface wipe with lacquer thinner and you are ready to rock and roll whether it be gluing up or applying finish.

 

[tinped]

where did you purchase the teak and holly flooring?

 

[FF]

Gloss is always a harder finish.

However it reflects light , which on a moving boat makes many folks PUKE.

The solution is rottenstone , after the finish is hard.

Rottenstone will soften the gloss enough to not reflect.

 

[caltexflanc]

Gloss is always a harder finish.

However it reflects light , which on a moving boat makes many folks PUKE.

The solution is rottenstone , after the finish is hard.

Rottenstone will soften the gloss enough to not reflect.

I'd tend to agree with that about gloss for large expanse such as the floor in the OP. Especially if no rugs were being put on it. The wood on my aft deck is about a 2 foot wide border around a an indoor/outdoor carpeted "core". Most of it any given time has furniture on it, and stuff that is stashed behind the furniture. The satin Wood Finish we put on the lower cabin stairs seems to be every bit as "hard" as the gloss after getting walked up and down on several times every day for three years.

 

[Tony B]

where did you purchase the teak and holly flooring?

I bought mine at Houston Hardwoods. It is on the west side of Houston, Tx.
The cost was $123/sheet for 1/4" plywood. This hasn't changed much in about 12-15 years while solid teak has more than doubled. If you look at the edge of the plywood, the teak and holly veneers are noticeably thicker than normal plywood. Also note that the holly is somewhat thicker than the teak. I was told that was in lieu of non skid by having the raised stripes - it almost makes sense.
If you don't live in the Houston area, check with local cabinet shops and they can tell you where the nearest 'exotic hardswood' lumberyards are.

 

[Tony B]

From someone that is slightly prone to seasickness, myself included, I would think that the stripes would throw me over the edge way before the shiny reflection. I'll just have to keep myself out of the salon and have my wife serve me up on the fly bridge - yeah right, like thats gonna happen.

 

[Tony B]

Poly Floor Finish

I went to Sherwin Williams with 1 ft sq. scrap piece of T&H plywood. I heard so much about waterbase products recently, and in the past, I was never impressed so I figure its time to give it a try again with the newer technology and all. I had some acrylic brushed to about a 3" wide strip across the stripes and another 3" strip of oil based poly adjacent to it. Almost immediately, I came to the realization that I still was unimpressed with the 'look' of the acrylic. The oil based poly looked so much better that the acrylic was not even in the ballpark.
After that I drove down to a marine supply house and played dumb, which incidently, is not much of a leap for me. I asked them what the 'pros' used on interior decks. They, meaning more than one person, told me that most of the pros in the area used several coats of marine varnish and finished it off with a coat of acrylic finish such as Defthane for a harder surface. The logic was that the varnish gave it the amber glow and the top coat of acrylic gave it a harder surface. This made absolutely no sense to me. The first thought that came to me is that I would make this analogous to placing a sheet of glass over a sheet of soft foam to make the surface harder. I think that if I were to walk on it, the glass would break.
After all of this, I think I am going to just go ahead with a good oil based poly floor finish. This will give me the amber and the protection. The only drawback is the longer drying time and I think I can live with that. Monday we will know what I finally decided on.

 

[Dom61]

Hi, Nice job i am in the planing stage of the same job on my 1975 MT DC 34 but I am having a problem locating the fastiners that hold the cabinets in the boat any help would be great Dom