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Old 01-23-2013, 08:16 AM   #21
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Gloss is always a harder finish.

However it reflects light , which on a moving boat makes many folks PUKE.

The solution is rottenstone , after the finish is hard.

Rottenstone will soften the gloss enough to not reflect.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:40 AM   #22
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Gloss is always a harder finish.

However it reflects light , which on a moving boat makes many folks PUKE.

The solution is rottenstone , after the finish is hard.

Rottenstone will soften the gloss enough to not reflect.
I'd tend to agree with that about gloss for large expanse such as the floor in the OP. Especially if no rugs were being put on it. The wood on my aft deck is about a 2 foot wide border around a an indoor/outdoor carpeted "core". Most of it any given time has furniture on it, and stuff that is stashed behind the furniture. The satin Wood Finish we put on the lower cabin stairs seems to be every bit as "hard" as the gloss after getting walked up and down on several times every day for three years.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:55 PM   #23
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where did you purchase the teak and holly flooring?
I bought mine at Houston Hardwoods. It is on the west side of Houston, Tx.
The cost was $123/sheet for 1/4" plywood. This hasn't changed much in about 12-15 years while solid teak has more than doubled. If you look at the edge of the plywood, the teak and holly veneers are noticeably thicker than normal plywood. Also note that the holly is somewhat thicker than the teak. I was told that was in lieu of non skid by having the raised stripes - it almost makes sense.
If you don't live in the Houston area, check with local cabinet shops and they can tell you where the nearest 'exotic hardswood' lumberyards are.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:06 PM   #24
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From someone that is slightly prone to seasickness, myself included, I would think that the stripes would throw me over the edge way before the shiny reflection. I'll just have to keep myself out of the salon and have my wife serve me up on the fly bridge - yeah right, like thats gonna happen.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:31 PM   #25
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Poly Floor Finish

I went to Sherwin Williams with 1 ft sq. scrap piece of T&H plywood. I heard so much about waterbase products recently, and in the past, I was never impressed so I figure its time to give it a try again with the newer technology and all. I had some acrylic brushed to about a 3" wide strip across the stripes and another 3" strip of oil based poly adjacent to it. Almost immediately, I came to the realization that I still was unimpressed with the 'look' of the acrylic. The oil based poly looked so much better that the acrylic was not even in the ballpark.
After that I drove down to a marine supply house and played dumb, which incidently, is not much of a leap for me. I asked them what the 'pros' used on interior decks. They, meaning more than one person, told me that most of the pros in the area used several coats of marine varnish and finished it off with a coat of acrylic finish such as Defthane for a harder surface. The logic was that the varnish gave it the amber glow and the top coat of acrylic gave it a harder surface. This made absolutely no sense to me. The first thought that came to me is that I would make this analogous to placing a sheet of glass over a sheet of soft foam to make the surface harder. I think that if I were to walk on it, the glass would break.
After all of this, I think I am going to just go ahead with a good oil based poly floor finish. This will give me the amber and the protection. The only drawback is the longer drying time and I think I can live with that. Monday we will know what I finally decided on.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:40 AM   #26
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Hi, Nice job i am in the planing stage of the same job on my 1975 MT DC 34 but I am having a problem locating the fastiners that hold the cabinets in the boat any help would be great Dom
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