Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-30-2016, 12:37 PM   #21
TF Site Team
 
Pineapple Girl's Avatar
 
City: San Mateo, CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Pineapple Girl II
Vessel Model: PT 35
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,165
Our boat had freshly redone varnish (pratt and lambert) on the hand rails when we bought it almost six years ago. We had sunbrella covers made. Since purchase we have had more varnish applied two or three times-a couple of coats each time. The varnish looks great. Though we rarely take the covers off to enjoy it.

good luck with whatever you decide to do!
__________________
Advertisement

__________________
-Jennifer
Pineapple Girl II 1984 PT 35
San Francisco Bay Area
www.pineapple-girl.blogspot.com
Pineapple Girl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 03:00 PM   #22
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,707
Bill maybe "just seal" is'nt that good of a seal.
If you did that water may sneak in under the CR and you'd be right back to water intrusion. Boat builders thought they'd sealed the stringers in the bottom of the hull too but almost all have rotted out. And they worshiped FG even more than most here worship epoxy.

Water goes everywhere in a boat.

PG,
Did you learn that from Marin?
__________________

__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 10:50 PM   #23
Guru
 
O C Diver's Avatar
 
City: Fort Myers, FL... Summers in Crisfield, MD
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Slow Hand
Vessel Model: Cherubini Independence 45
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,813
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
Ted,
You've raised more questions than answers.

Details details details or it's just a few pictures.

How do they get from the redish brown stuff that looks goopy to the smooth white. And if by sanding how does one avoid ending up w ridiculously thin overcoat or sanding right through??....

78puget,
I know the difference but hand rails get scuffed up too. Probably not so much from feet but dragging stuff over them ... perhaps tool or boxes of stuff. Same issue .. when the hard scuff resistant coatings crack water gets to the teak and under the coating. That results in black stains and the water slowly spreads out and lifts off the coating. My experience has been that flexability is more important than hardness. Add touch up friendliness to that preference as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
Good God! Did they put that filler on with a hair comb or a wire brush? :-)

And why not just seal the rails with clear epoxy and then prime and paint?
The Process: The teak was sanded down so that the West System would soak into clean wood and the finished product would be approximately the same size as the original cap rail. The caulk was removed between the teak and the fiberglass it was attached to. A slot was formed where the caulk was so the bi-axial cloth with WS could be tucked under the teak cap rail. After the cloth was applied and tucked, a WS with bonding filler additive was applied as a filet to bond the cloth to the fiberglass below the cap rail and fill the remaining slot space. Finally, WS with fairing additive (West System frosting) was applied with a paint brush. From wetting out the teak with WS, through applying the cloth, tucking, and filleting, to applying the frosting, all the steps were done in one day so that all the WS would bond and cure together.

Sanding, shaping was done by a pro, Sean, so that there would be no sanding through the bi-axial cloth. The object was to have very little of the frosting left as it's only to fill the cloth print voids. The process encapsulated the teak and gave it a barrier (the cloth) much stronger and more puncture resistant than simply applying multiple coats of WS and painting over it. After the sanding was completed, the cap rail (and the rest of the boat) recieved 2 coats of Awlgrip primer, was sanded, and then 2 to 4 coats of Awlgrip Ultra Build. The white you see in the picture is the Ultra Build which is the final fairing stage for that perfect smoothness. After the Ultra Build is sanded, 2 more coats of Awlgrip primer sealer, sand lightly again, and then 2 coats of Awlgrip top coat.

What I ended up with is a surface as durable as the hull with a 15+ year projected life for the paint. There will likely be hard wear areas that may need to be repainted. Most likely it will be sanding, repriming, and top coating. Same as repairing scratched paint over fiberglass.

If you look carefully, you can see the teak rub rail below the cap rail. That was also encapsulated, but with 2 layers of bi-axial cloth with WS to be even more durable.

Click image for larger version

Name:	MC34.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	51.2 KB
ID:	53704

This is the transom door after everything through the fairing of the Ultra Build. It's ready for final priming and top coating.

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1141.jpg
Views:	71
Size:	63.4 KB
ID:	53705

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1142.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	41.0 KB
ID:	53706

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1143.jpg
Views:	60
Size:	49.7 KB
ID:	53707

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1144.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	53708

After the top coat, but before the Stainless steel rub stake that covers the exterior paint line.

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1510.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	71.9 KB
ID:	53709

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1461.jpg
Views:	64
Size:	60.4 KB
ID:	53710

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1462.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	53711

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN1468.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	72.6 KB
ID:	53712

Ted
__________________
Blog: mvslowhand.com
I'm tired of fast moves, I've got a slow groove, on my mind.....
I want to spend some time, Not come and go in a heated rush.....
"Slow Hand" by The Pointer Sisters
O C Diver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2016, 11:05 PM   #24
Guru
 
dhays's Avatar
 
City: Gig Harbor
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Kinship
Vessel Model: North Pacific 43
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 5,080
The end result looks amazing. I am not sure what is more daunting however, the amount of work involved or the expense of paying for the work to be done.
__________________
Regards,

Dave
SPOT page
dhays is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2016, 12:44 AM   #25
TF Site Team
 
Pineapple Girl's Avatar
 
City: San Mateo, CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Pineapple Girl II
Vessel Model: PT 35
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,165
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
Did you learn that from Marin?
Someone I actually know recommended it.
__________________
-Jennifer
Pineapple Girl II 1984 PT 35
San Francisco Bay Area
www.pineapple-girl.blogspot.com
Pineapple Girl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2016, 01:10 AM   #26
Guru
 
City: Hotel, CA
Country: Fried
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 8,328
Teak handrails?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pineapple Girl View Post
Our boat had freshly redone varnish (pratt and lambert) on the hand rails when we bought it almost six years ago. We had sunbrella covers made. Since purchase we have had more varnish applied two or three times-a couple of coats each time. The varnish looks great. Though we rarely take the covers off to enjoy it.

good luck with whatever you decide to do!

Matt and Jennifer's handrails are perhaps the best I've ever seen.
__________________
Craig

It's easier to fool people than to convince them that they've been fooled - Mark Twain
CPseudonym is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2016, 08:25 AM   #27
Senior Member
 
stornoway7's Avatar
 
City: Hobart
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: Theresa
Vessel Model: Cheoy Lee 66 LRMY
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 106
We've been using Awlgrip's Awlwood MA system.
Great so far, time will tell I guess.
stornoway7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2016, 10:14 AM   #28
Senior Member
 
clynn's Avatar
 
City: Memphis
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Ivory Lady
Vessel Model: 46 Jefferson
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 266
I'm in the process of redoing wood on my boat. If you want easy and pretty good, go Cetol. I've also been very happy with Man O War Spar Varnish. It looks amazing on Mahogany, but a bit more particular to apply.

Remove the old varnish with a heat gun and scrapper (decent once bought on Amazon). I started with small pieces that I could take home and practice with. Once you get the hang of it, you can make an old boat look really good again for very little $$$...well, the wood parts at least.
clynn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2016, 02:34 PM   #29
TF Site Team
 
Pineapple Girl's Avatar
 
City: San Mateo, CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Pineapple Girl II
Vessel Model: PT 35
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,165
Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1467570859.605514.jpg
Views:	57
Size:	47.3 KB
ID:	53778
pratt and lambert, kept under sunbrella cover
__________________
-Jennifer
Pineapple Girl II 1984 PT 35
San Francisco Bay Area
www.pineapple-girl.blogspot.com
Pineapple Girl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 12:26 AM   #30
Member
 
SD_Pappy's Avatar
 
City: San Diego
Country: USA
Vessel Model: Howard Custom Trawler
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by stornoway7 View Post
We've been using Awlgrip's Awlwood MA system.
Great so far, time will tell I guess.
I've used that in the past, good stuff.
SD_Pappy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 01:31 PM   #31
Veteran Member
 
alberto's Avatar
 
City: Valencia
Country: Spain
Vessel Name: Song of Summer
Vessel Model: GB 42 Classic
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 85
Epifanes High gloss.

Stands but requires a coat every year for gloss particularly if you are in tropical area
Very important if possible to reach close to 1mm thickness.

This forces from bare wood to 5-7 coats.
as you reach more coats it becomes darker.

And a lot of patience
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5319.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	119.5 KB
ID:	53825   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2528.jpg
Views:	34
Size:	93.9 KB
ID:	53826   Click image for larger version

Name:	Re-exposure of IMG_3231.jpg
Views:	34
Size:	103.1 KB
ID:	53827   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rotation of Rotation of IMG_2536.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	127.2 KB
ID:	53828  
alberto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 04:38 PM   #32
Guru
 
Simi 60's Avatar
 
City: Queensland
Country: Australia
Vessel Model: Milkraft 60 converted trawler
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 771
The boat I am buying has extensive timber rails and external timber, all of it varnished at great expense in 2013, all of it flaking and degraded today.

It is being suggested to me, for longevity reasons (I want to use and enjoy the boat, not endlessly paint it) to use a good quality exterior house paint, tinted to a SOLID timber/shade of brown colour of my choice.

I tend to agree, at the end of the day its going to look a lot better than what is there at present and if I can get 10 years or more from it all the better.
Simi 60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2016, 05:40 PM   #33
Guru
 
Capt.Bill11's Avatar
 
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Country: USA
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,422
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
Bill maybe "just seal" is'nt that good of a seal.
If you did that water may sneak in under the CR and you'd be right back to water intrusion. Boat builders thought they'd sealed the stringers in the bottom of the hull too but almost all have rotted out. And they worshiped FG even more than most here worship epoxy.

Water goes everywhere in a boat.
True.

And after reading Teds follow up post I now see what they were trying to, and did, achieve. Full blending in of the wood to the fiberglass.
__________________

Capt.Bill11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012