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Old 01-06-2013, 02:36 PM   #1
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Teak decks

Okay. I started to remove the failed caulk in between the teak planks. I noticed that it appears to be a teak bottom in the seam? I thought I would see fiberglass instead. The seam came up okay. So now the question is : if its teak on the bottom of the channel should I still use the 3m tape on the bottom before caulking?
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:56 PM   #2
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The way to clean/ream out the old caulking is to use a regular sqare screw drive the the edges sharp. I use a hook carpet knife to cut down the seam and the groove calking in the seam down to the fiberglass. when down to bear wook to clean the acatone.

Be sure to a small area at a time so you can reach across as the caulking is messey. Paint thinner cleans up well before the calking dries.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:04 PM   #3
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Also not all of the seams need recaulking. Is it okay to cut away bad seams and Recaulk half the length?

I'm planning on removing old caulk
Sanding grooves/seams
Recaulking
Sanding entire deck
Applying CeTOL

Thoughts? Tips?
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:06 PM   #4
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Thanks Phil



acetone to clean the grooves as part of prep. Yep I'm using a hooked blade and a screw driver.

Did you sand at all before caulk?
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:22 PM   #5
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The deck planks each have a groove milled down one edge. They are laid with the grooved edge butted up against the un grooved edge of the adjacent plank. When the planks are butted together side by side, this groove forms the seam that needs to be sealed. That's why you are seeing wood at the bottom of the groove, not the upper surface of your subdeck.

Assuming a properly constructed teak deck, if you see fiberglass at the bottom of a deck groove you've got a major problem.

Decks wear out when the planks get too thin to allow a proper depth groove. The grooves can be recut deeper as the planks wear-- we had this done several years ago--- but eventually there will not be enough plank thickness to do this anymore and the teak decking will have to be replaced or removed.

This is why everything should be done to preserve the plank thickness. No sanding, no teak "cleaners," no powerwashing, no scrubbing with the grain except where deck hardware makes it impossible to go across the grain..
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:34 PM   #6
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Marin,

Thanks for the reply. It makes sense. I don't see any Fiberglas.

Question is should I sand the groove before applying caulk?

As for not sanding the deck, it is on the Sundeck and has a cost of CeTOL on it already. Should I just re-apply without sanding?
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:44 PM   #7
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How deep is the existing groove? Yes, you should sand before applying caulk. And, yes, use tape in the bottom of the groove. You only want the caulk to adhere to the sides of the groove, not the bottom. That will allow for expansion and contraction.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:48 PM   #8
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Are you sold on applying Cetol to the decks? The PO had done the same to our boat, and the deck is somewhat slippery when wet. We're letting the Cetol run its course (which is taking longer than we hoped - the darn stuff is good at what it does!), and we'll allow the teak to grey naturally. Periodic maintenance will include filling the holes, cracks and voids that appear in the seams. Easiest way to do that is to buy liquid black polysulfide and equestrian syringes (they have "fatter" needles and will not gum up as fast as regular sized syringes). Fill the syringe partway and place the needle into the void. Squeeze until it "bubbles" up and fills the void, allowing for a bit of shrinkage.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:55 PM   #9
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Thanks G I will sand the grooves and clean with acetone before caulking

Moon,
CeTOL does a great job. We have the rails done on CeTOL already so it will flow. Great tip on the maintenance of the seams!
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:57 PM   #10
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I am noticing the Caulk is all the way to the bottom on a few of the seams. No tape.

I'm only doing the seams that have failed. The others I will fix as they fail.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:57 PM   #11
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Existing groove is deep.
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:06 PM   #12
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If you have the time, go to the Grand Banks owners forum and search for teak deck repair. You'll find many threads from true experts and boatwrights. There is a method for caulk repair where you cut at a diagonal from one edge of the seam to the bottom of the seam on the opposite side. Do that on both sides of the groove. What you'll have is a shallow triangle of caulk remaining. From there you can re-caulk. Use tape on both sides to facilitate cleanup. I use TDS products only (no affiliation).
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:24 PM   #13
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Thanks.


I am prepping and de caulking it. Can't finish in a day. Is it ok to leave it uncaulked under the canapy and eisenglass ?

Want to de caulk and sand and prep in one step
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:31 PM   #14
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...as long as it stays dry. "Dry" is the key when re-caulking.
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:36 PM   #15
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I chased the issue of applying finishes to teak decking. Pretty sure is was TDS who said it was not recommended. I assume there are solvents etc which may affect the caulk.
I thought it may be ok if you totally avoid the caulking, but that could be difficult, especially as the plank edges abut the caulk margin which you want to adhere to the teak.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:15 PM   #16
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This is where the Fein Multimaster or some of its various knockoffs really can pay for itself. There are little hook like attachments of various widths specifically designed for this task that make getting the old caulk cleanly out a snap, eliminate a lot of sanding and preserve more wood. Sanding or deepening the grooves if necessary are also very easy with one of these tools.

I strongly agree with those advocating unfinished decks, but you will have a lot more sanding to do to get all the Cetol off, probably better to light sand and reapply Cetol again. Also agree with the Teak Decking Systems advocates; cures faster and sands easier.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:26 PM   #17
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OK, I'm gonna step in it again.

I still find those old weathered Grey Teak decks to be an eyesore - I really like the the look of a light brown nature wood Teak.

I read about this TeakGuard stuff on a couple of other sites and it had great reviews. It's water-based. Admittedly, they all say that it does not typically last much more than a year, if exposed, without re coating, but also claim that is an advantage if you want it to just return to natural grey.

MyBoatStore.com: Search by Product Name, TeakGuard Products

I know the recommendation here is just leave it natural, but has anyone tried TeakGuard on decks who is willing to comment?

Thanks.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:43 PM   #18
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Teak decks: what a pain. Glad you folks talked me out of them in 2010 when purchasing my boat (originally ordered with teak decks). I don't mind gray decks. That's what I have, but that's non-skid paint.

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Old 01-07-2013, 12:08 AM   #19
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Natural teak decks are UGLY.

I would sand the deck before recaulking as sanding will probable damage the calking. A bet sander will not damage the calking as much. For 15+ years I have applied Daily's Sea Fin which is thin sealer that dies hard. Every year after maintaining/repairing the calking, I wet sand the deck and apply a a new coat. The deck look like its been varnish.

The stern deck which is enclosed is varnish with hard gym varnish. There is zero wood/teak that is bear. Its not a lot of time if kept up, but you should enjoy doing the maintenance.
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:35 AM   #20
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Anyone who tells you to sand a teak deck (except in extreme and dire circumstances) has no clue about how to properly care for and extend the longevity of a teak deck.

Anyone who tells you to use teak "cleaners" or " restorers" on a teak deck has no clue how to properly care for and extend the life of a teak deck.

Anyone who tells you to use a power washer on a teak deck has no clue how to properly care for and extend the life of a teak deck.

The only person who has to live with the consequences of mistreating a teak deck is the owner. So it's of no consequences to me or anyone else what an owner chooses to do. But if one takes the advice to sand, use Cetol, use teak cleaners (which do the same thing as sandpaper but chemically rather thn mechanically), use oil, power wash, don't use bond-breaking tape, etc., I will guarantee you that they are shortening the life of the deck.

For the last fourteen years we have been living with an original teak deck that is now 40 years old. Previous owners over-sanded it to the point where the bottoms of many of the grooves were almost even with tops of the planks when we bought the bot, scrubbed the deck with the grain, let separated seams go un-repaired, and not replaced missing deck plugs. We talked to shipwrights and the experts at Teak Decking Systems (TDS). We talked to a retired Grand Banks deck installer. And we read every book on the subject we could find.

And we brought our deck back, not to excellent condition because wood that goes away will never come back, but to very acceptable and serviceable condition. This was about 12 years ago and we've learned to keep it that way because it can never be regrooved or sanded again. And the cost of a new teak main deck for a GB36 is today more than $30,000 installed. We know, we've priced it.

We may not know much about a lot of things having to do with boats but taking care of and maximizing the life of a teak deck is one thing we have learned and now know a hell of a lot about.

We put the effort in learning to repair and maintain a teak deck because we both feel it is the best deck surface available and we both hate fiberglass "nonskid" decks. So it's in our interest to get as many years as we can out of the deck we have now.

PS. If you buy a boat with a teak deck from a previous owner who was dumb enough to put Cetol on it, DO NOT sand it off. You will remove too much irreplaceable wood in the process. The best thing to do is let it weather off. It will look absolutely hideous as it does this and it will take a long time, months, even the better part of a year depending on the climate. But it will eventually begin to fail, lift, peel off and weather out of the grain. You still may need to give the deck a LIGHT sanding once the bulk of the Cetol is gone but the objective is to keep this to an absolute minimum.
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