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Old 10-09-2016, 11:02 AM   #1
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Teak Decks

There are lots of sources of information on the care and feeding of teak decks, but so much of it conflicts. Some say brush, most say never brush, 3-M pad or Doodle Bug...

And when you re-calk sections, most show all the calk coming out and the deck slathered in new and sanded down? What do most of you do about small area repair where only a few inches or a foot of material has come lose? Can I clean out just a small section, tape off and fill that section wiping smooth? Also, our survey came back that in places our calk is "Standing Proud" and it is recommended I take a sharp chisel and remove excess material? Broker is saying that will have a negative effect on the skid resistance of the deck?

Totally new to teak decks...
Russ
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Old 10-09-2016, 11:19 AM   #2
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Teak decks are like children. You can follow all the care rules or not and the decks will be what they will be.

Never scrub teak decks with stiff bristle brushes as it raises the grain. Unless they need it.

Yes, you can make minor repairs very easily. Believe me. I am an expert in this.

First cut the beginning and end of the bad caulk section at a 45 degree or greater angle. Clean out the seam of dirt and old caulk. Mask the edges of the seam with masking tape. Prime the inside edges of the seam (I've never done this). Put a sliver of tape on the bottom of the seam (I never do this either). Pump caulking into the seam letting it sit proud. Using a rounded putty knife, press the seam flat across the tape. Pickup the tape while the caulk is still soft. (that's fun) Don't step on the wet seam for 24 hours.

Caulk that is standing excessively "proud" is waiting to be knocked out. Sand or cut down to the level of the teak. The teak is what gives teak decks their non skid not the seams.

Use TDS caulking. All the others are like stuffing licorice in the seams.
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Old 10-09-2016, 12:03 PM   #3
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Greetings,
Mr. LS. As per Mr. al..."The teak is what gives teak decks their non skid not the seams." EXACTLY!! Your "broker" is full of...um...er...beans.
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Old 10-09-2016, 01:01 PM   #4
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18 years during the month of Sept I have repaired areas of calking and resealed the deck. During the summer the deck dries out and shrinks, so there are areas the require the calking to be removed stripped out. I used a hook nose carpet knife to cut along the edges to cut most of the old calking out and then a regulator square screw driver to ream out what remains, and 60 grit sand paper to smooth and clean the groove. Tape along the edges, fill groove with calking pressing the calking into the groove with a putty knive, remove tape. Paint thinner cleans up calking before it dries,

I would not use a chisel on the high areas best to cut out and recaulk. However, other people will probable not notice so the best is to just leave it. I am more concerned the deck is weather proof first than how it might look. Protect first then how it looks.
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Old 10-09-2016, 02:01 PM   #5
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Don't forget the plugs

Agree with the above suggestions particularly that TDS caulking is the only product worth using.
Additionally don't forget to look for and replace loose or damaged teak plugs over screw heads. They are a source of water intrusion that will ruin the core of your deck.
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Old 10-09-2016, 02:36 PM   #6
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If you make a small relief in the squeegee that you are smoothing the caulk with the caulk will stand a little bit proud of the teak and look nice without having to sand anything. It will also be less slippery
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Old 10-09-2016, 03:06 PM   #7
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Sikaflex 290 DC works just as well as TDS caulking.

In fact I don't believe TDS makes their own caulking. So I'm guessing it's somebodies else's product name dropped.

Don't get me wrong, the TDS caulk is good stuff but it's just not the only stuff as many seem to believe.

As to the raised seams, a small wood plane set at the right level makes fast work of those.

For removing the old caulk, you have several options.

By hand with a bent and sharpened file handle, circular saw and guide battens/rails, 90% drill with a saw blade in it with custom made washers as depth guides on the sides of the saw blade, tire regrooving tool (TR40-RG Handheld Tire Regroover | Mile - X Equipment), Fein tool, combination of any 2 or more, etc.
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
Sikaflex 290 DC works just as well as TDS caulking.

In fact I don't believe TDS makes their own caulking. So I'm guessing it's somebodies else's product name dropped.

Don't get me wrong, the TDS caulk is good stuff but it's just not the only stuff as many seem to believe.

As to the raised seams, a small wood plane set at the right level makes fast work of those.

For removing the old caulk, you have several options.

By hand with a bent and sharpened file handle, circular saw and guide battens/rails, 90% drill with a saw blade in it with custom made washers as depth guides on the sides of the saw blade, tire regrooving tool (TR40-RG Handheld Tire Regroover | Mile - X Equipment), Fein tool, combination of any 2 or more, etc.
Might not be the only caulk or the only cleaner, but I do believe in doing what the manufacturer of the teak says, whether it's TDS (as it is likely to be in the US) or someone else. We've only done as recommended by TDS and our teak continues to look like new. Now, we, admittedly have the advantage, as we haven't inherited anyone else's abuse. Still, when it doubt, contact the manufacturer.
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:38 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by LongStoryGB36 View Post
There are lots of sources of information on the care and feeding of teak decks, but so much of it conflicts. Some say brush, most say never brush, 3-M pad or Doodle Bug...

And when you re-calk sections, most show all the calk coming out and the deck slathered in new and sanded down? What do most of you do about small area repair where only a few inches or a foot of material has come lose? Can I clean out just a small section, tape off and fill that section wiping smooth? Also, our survey came back that in places our calk is "Standing Proud" and it is recommended I take a sharp chisel and remove excess material? Broker is saying that will have a negative effect on the skid resistance of the deck?

Totally new to teak decks...
Russ
Yes. Follow #2 above!
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:00 PM   #10
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Teak decks can be nice and beautiful. Nevertheless, I elected their absence due to their demanding maintenance and used money saved for a different boat goodie.
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Old 11-15-2016, 04:26 PM   #11
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Best way to remove caulk is with a Feintool vibrating cutter. Knock offs sell at Harbor Freight for $30
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:59 PM   #12
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Teak decks can be nice and beautiful. Nevertheless, I elected their absence due to their demanding maintenance and used money saved for a different boat goodie.
Yes, and a noisy one it is.
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:07 PM   #13
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Best way to remove caulk is with a Feintool vibrating cutter. Knock offs sell at Harbor Freight for $30
IMHO, spend a bit more, those cheap Fein knock offs vibrate the hell out of your hands if you use them for any period of time.I made that initial mistake and rectified it by buying the Fein, it's a terrific tool, although pretty pricey.Bosch make one, at a mid level price.
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Old 11-15-2016, 09:46 PM   #14
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I used the small blade of a Swiss Army knife to reef out the old caulk, taped off the seam, squirted in the caulk, flattened it with a putty knife then pulled the tape. When it dries, (you can tell because you always get it on you, so when your forearms are dry) I used one of the razor blades with the thick backing to whip off the proud caulk.
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