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Old 10-19-2013, 08:17 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by SeaHorse II View Post
I had one built about 2.5 years ago. Used plantation teak. I oil it about every 6 months (Top only) and it's still looking good.
Hi Walt, I count 34 strips. How much time did you have invested?

Guess-timates?
1. Designing.
2. Procuring.
3. Prepping wood.
4. Cutting/Assembling.
5. Sanding
6. Banding
7. Coating
8. Attaching
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:04 AM   #22
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Hi Walt, I count 34 strips. How much time did you have invested?
Time invested? Me? As I said, I had one built and all I did was make a "rubbing" of the old one and sent it to Wilkes-Barre, PA where I had it built. Wish I could remember the name of the shop but I can't. All they needed was a sketch or rubbing and the thickness of the teak. (Mine is 1.5" thick.) These guys in Wilkes-Barre were about $3K less than 3 West Coast shops that bid it. When they shipped it to San Diego, it came in a beautiful wooden crate with the rubbing laying on top. All n all, it cost $4.5K, including mounting at the yard. How much time did I have in the project? About 2-3 hours looking for the right shop. (Price) Here's a few pics that may help. (Note: Were I to do it again, I'd do what dwhatty did only I would have someone else build it as I don't have the skills or tools need to do a great job.)
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:22 AM   #23
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OK, I count 32 strip layers. Do you buy it in those strips? Do you drill alternating screw placement locations to avoid splitting? Man, I can see a morning on YouTube coming...
I paid the lumber supplier I think about $40 to rip the boards into those strips (do not skip this as ripping these slats would have been a major PITA!!). I put a radius on all four edges with a router. I then took several of the strips and cut them to length using a stop block on my miter box for the short blocks. I put a radius on all of the ends as well. I mounted 4' wide planks to the tops of the SS brackets. Put blocks against the transom and bent the first board into place. I counter sunk and ran screws up from the bottom thru the planks and into the slat. Took the next slat and did the same as well as face drilling and screwing into the previous slat. I repeated this process for the first few slats. Disassembled all of them and mixed up some medium set thickened epoxy. Put a nice thick bed of epoxy on top of the planks and reassembled. Repeated this process with about 5 long slats per mixing. Limited the under mounted screws to every 3-4 slat. On the outer several slats I epoxied the face of each one so they were screwed and epoxied together to form a solid mass. I then wetted all the ends with thinned epoxy to help eliminate any checking or splitting. Thru bolted through the outer SS hole using a good sized fender washer to further sandwich the mass to the SS brackets. Next and I haven't got around to it yet is trim the ends if desired and add a rub stake around the perimeter.
Total cost
About $500
Time was two days (immensely satisfying project)
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:02 AM   #24
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Here is a picture of my swimgrid after I extended it. You can differentiate the new wood from the old, by its slightly darker colour. The new part is the part closest to the transom.

$500 for the teak, cut strips to match the existing Swim grid and attached with epoxy and lots of clamping. 1/2" radius roundover after attaching, each strip 1.25 square, and fit to the existing supports with a 2x6 oak plank on top, which I replaced the next year with new, longer and stronger SS supports ($1000). The original extension was done in the winter of 05/06, so having left unfinished for 8 years, summers outside, winters in a shelter, the gray teak look is in need of refreshing.

So far I have sanded off most of the gray ridges, but there is still some gray showing, as the teak wears unevenly, the soft wood between the ridges wears first, so with sanding that wood stays gray. So far I haven't reduced the thickness significantly.

Thanks guys, for your suggestions. SWMBO has seen the sanded surface and has suggested she would be happier to have the surface go gray again and be refreshed with sanding every 8 years than have a slippery finish on top, so that being the easiest solution, that may be where I stop.
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Old 10-19-2013, 05:31 PM   #25
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Don't varnish or Deks Ole.
On my previous boat I used that, D.O., and it was slippery as the dickens. I hurt myself although didn't go in the water when I stepped on the wet surface..
Same for varnish unless you put in a grit.

Any glossy surface will be very slippery when wet.
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Old 10-20-2013, 04:09 PM   #26
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All - excellent photos! I am really inspired now. I have an 18-inch grey teak platform with cracks and patches. You guys are measuring 30-inch solid and tough, well-coated work. Thank you for all the pics and measurements. I need to go wood-shopping tomorrow. Once I get some other things settled (moving). I need to embark on a project.
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:42 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Daddyo View Post

Total cost
About $500
Time was two days (immensely satisfying project)
I won't re-quote all, but this post and many others are a much-appreciated textbook. Thank you for posting all of that detail. I hope I can replicate that work in the coming months. The next couple months we'll be tied up with a house move. Ugh.
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