suface rust

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Slowboat 37

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Aug 29, 2010
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Lilli Belle's ss stanchions are accumulating some surface rust. Is a polish/chemical the best way to remove it or a really fine grit paper? the cleats are loosing their shine as well.
 
spray on rinse off surface rust removers. There are dozens on the market, they all work in seconds.
 
Lilli Belle's ss stanchions are accumulating some surface rust. Is a polish/chemical the best way to remove it or a really fine grit paper? the cleats are loosing their shine as well.

It would help if you would tell us what material they are made of.
 
If stainless, DO NOT SAND. I saw a boat that had all the ss stanchions sanded to get some light surface rust off. Within days they were all heavely rusted. They needed to be repassivated.
 
If it's just very thin ghost rust, I like Nevr-Dull wadding. Take light rust right off SS, and leaves a thin coating behind that helps protect.

I looked into that Spotless Stainless stuff...gets good reviews and is based on citric acid.
 
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If some of this stuff gets on a teak toerail adjoining the stanchion, will it strip off the finish? Seem like anything as powerful as this must be (acid, maybe?) has to have to be really carefully applied.

I believe it is a mild acid. I don't remember anything about wearing protective clothing or anything like that.

I don't have any exterior teak so I can't answer that question. Perhaps the manufacturer knows.

I use Flitz or auto store chrome/ stainless steel polish on rails and stuff but the spotless stainless works great where you can't polish or buff.
 
WD-40 works well on stainless and leaves a protective coat.

Dave
I'm with you on that approach, although as noted, I prefer SeaPower that removes surface rust on stainless almost instantly. Using an acid is killing a fly with a flamethrower. Certainly works, but.....
 
Using an acid is killing a fly with a flamethrower. Certainly works, but.....

There is acid and there is ACID. Orange juice is an acit. Vinegar is an acid. I believe the Spotless Stainless is a weak acid along with some chemicals that leave a protective barrier coat. We're not talking about battery acid here.
 
WD-40 works well on stainless and leaves a protective coat.

Dave

OK I just went out and tried it. The WD40 did absolutely nothing to remove even the slightest surface rust. What am I missing? Do you need to use steel wool or something?
 
This subject comes up often and everyone has a favorite rust stain remover.
The good ones are acid based. The commonly used acids are oxalic, phosphoric hydrofloric and now it looks like citric has entered the fray. Any of these will work, I've tried them all. I'm going to tell you the best. Don't listen to anyone else.
(Just kidding! Please don't kill me)
The best is Whink. The active chemical is hydrofloric acid, Squirt it on a light rust stain and the stain disapears. If it doesn't disapear, wet a rag with Whink and rub it a little. It takes the stain off the SS and the gel coat next to it. This stuff works like magic. Buy it in the laundry asile of your grocery store or at a hardware store.
RR_Website.jpg
 
The only thing I've found WD-40 to be good for is to dry out wiring and stuff.

Hop Car it looks like those rust colored bottles are getting rusty.

Is this another miracle in a bottle discussions? Hop Car used the word in the last post. I'll bet that rust stuff works well as it's purpose designed/formulated. I'd get some but I can't remember having any rust. I probably have and just aren't so fussy.
 
This subject comes up often and everyone has a favorite rust stain remover.
The good ones are acid based. The commonly used acids are oxalic, phosphoric hydrofloric and now it looks like citric has entered the fray. Any of these will work, I've tried them all. I'm going to tell you the best. Don't listen to anyone else.
(Just kidding! Please don't kill me)
The best is Whink. The active chemical is hydrofloric acid, Squirt it on a light rust stain and the stain disapears. If it doesn't disapear, wet a rag with Whink and rub it a little. It takes the stain off the SS and the gel coat next to it. This stuff works like magic. Buy it in the laundry asile of your grocery store or at a hardware store.
RR_Website.jpg

A couple years ago my boat was blocked being bottom painted and I thought I would clean it up a bit. There was a brown stain from the airconditioning drain to the waterline. I tried all my faithful products without success. The marina manager handed me a bottle of Whink and said he guaranteed that would remove the stain.

Results - The stain is still there. :banghead:

Whink is probably as good as anything else, but in my experience, no better.
 
A couple years ago my boat was blocked being bottom painted and I thought I would clean it up a bit. There was a brown stain from the airconditioning drain to the waterline. I tried all my faithful products without success. The marina manager handed me a bottle of Whink and said he guaranteed that would remove the stain.

Results - The stain is still there. :banghead:

Whink is probably as good as anything else, but in my experience, no better.


I have found that Starbrite Hull cleaner works really well on that A/C drain stain, as well as a good cleaner for our "Pamlico Mustache" on the bow from all the tannins in our water.
 
I have found that Starbrite Hull cleaner works really well on that A/C drain stain, as well as a good cleaner for our "Pamlico Mustache" on the bow from all the tannins in our water.

Starbrite Hull cleaner contains oxalic acid. I suspect the stain has just been there so long that it's permanent. It's only about thre inches long so I can live with it.
 
Ron I don't think your AC drain stain is rust so I wouldn't expect Whink to remove it.
One quick thread drift please, Ron what was the name of the resturant in Sanford that you liked? I think it was Italian.
 
I looked into that Spotless Stainless stuff...gets good reviews and is based on citric acid.


I bought some at the St. Pete boat show...tried it out...it worked! I ordered two more quarts. It works as advertised.... If the rust is heavy a little rubbing at the end helps...but it is good stuff!!
 
Flitz has worked well for me... cleans metal and fiberglass.
WD - 40 cleans grease and handprints on stainless appliances like nobody's business.
 
Thanks Ron. I'm going fishing up that way in a couple of weeks.
 
WD - 40 cleans grease and handprints on stainless appliances like nobody's business.

Perhaps, but it leaves an oily film that will attract dust and dirt. Ordinary cleaners like spray nine or simple green will clean appliances just as well and not leave an oily film.
 
WD-40 is a solvent. Next to SS cleaners sold at appliance stores it out cleans =with no oily build up
 
We've used Spotless Stainless on the sailboat, and it really does work. No issues with the teak or hull. The only tricks are that you need to keep in mind are (i) use it when it is relatively warm out (at least 70, as I recall, but works even better if it is warmer), and (ii) don't let it dry out. Our process has been to put some in a cup then paint it on with a disposable foam brush. Let it sit for 30 mins while occassionaly misting with some water in a spray bottle (good time to enjoy a beverage of choice), then rinse off with a hose. Really bad stains may take more than one application, or some rubbing. Once you are done, I suggest following up with a polish/protectant. You can use fitz as other suggested, Woody Wax (as we use) or pretty much any wax. We've suggested Spotless to friends and have heard back positive results from them, as well.
 

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