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Old 02-15-2013, 12:53 PM   #1
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suface rust

Lilli Belle's ss stanchions are accumulating some surface rust. Is a polish/chemical the best way to remove it or a really fine grit paper? the cleats are loosing their shine as well.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:07 PM   #2
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spray on rinse off surface rust removers. There are dozens on the market, they all work in seconds.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:26 PM   #3
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Lilli Belle's ss stanchions are accumulating some surface rust. Is a polish/chemical the best way to remove it or a really fine grit paper? the cleats are loosing their shine as well.
It would help if you would tell us what material they are made of.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:39 PM   #4
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We use 2 different products on our exterior metal. Autosol Metal Polish for specific area cleaning or heavily oxidized metal. For general day to day cleaning/polishing, Lena has found that Collinite's No. 850 Metal Wax works the best. I think part of the successes of both products is there is a wax finish left behind.

https://autosol.com/shop/metal-polish-2/

Liquid Metal Wax Collinite
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:54 PM   #5
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If stainless, DO NOT SAND. I saw a boat that had all the ss stanchions sanded to get some light surface rust off. Within days they were all heavely rusted. They needed to be repassivated.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:03 PM   #6
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It would help if you would tell us what material they are made of.
ss = stainless steel
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:49 PM   #7
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This product works well for areas that are difficult to polish like the phillips head screw driver slots.

Home - Spotless Stainless Removes Rust, Protects Stainless Steel

Of course it works on other areas also.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:57 PM   #8
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This product works well for areas that are difficult to polish like the phillips head screw driver slots.

Home - Spotless Stainless Removes Rust, Protects Stainless Steel

Of course it works on other areas also.
Seapower cleaner works well and protects the metal too.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:29 PM   #9
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This product works well for areas that are difficult to polish like the phillips head screw driver slots.

Home - Spotless Stainless Removes Rust, Protects Stainless Steel

Of course it works on other areas also.
If some of this stuff gets on a teak toerail adjoining the stanchion, will it strip off the finish? Seem like anything as powerful as this must be (acid, maybe?) has to have to be really carefully applied.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:38 PM   #10
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If it's just very thin ghost rust, I like Nevr-Dull wadding. Take light rust right off SS, and leaves a thin coating behind that helps protect.

I looked into that Spotless Stainless stuff...gets good reviews and is based on citric acid.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:32 AM   #11
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If some of this stuff gets on a teak toerail adjoining the stanchion, will it strip off the finish? Seem like anything as powerful as this must be (acid, maybe?) has to have to be really carefully applied.
I believe it is a mild acid. I don't remember anything about wearing protective clothing or anything like that.

I don't have any exterior teak so I can't answer that question. Perhaps the manufacturer knows.

I use Flitz or auto store chrome/ stainless steel polish on rails and stuff but the spotless stainless works great where you can't polish or buff.
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:01 AM   #12
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WD-40 works well on stainless and leaves a protective coat.

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Old 02-16-2013, 11:50 AM   #13
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WD-40 works well on stainless and leaves a protective coat.

Dave
I'm with you on that approach, although as noted, I prefer SeaPower that removes surface rust on stainless almost instantly. Using an acid is killing a fly with a flamethrower. Certainly works, but.....
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:42 AM   #14
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Using an acid is killing a fly with a flamethrower. Certainly works, but.....
There is acid and there is ACID. Orange juice is an acit. Vinegar is an acid. I believe the Spotless Stainless is a weak acid along with some chemicals that leave a protective barrier coat. We're not talking about battery acid here.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:56 AM   #15
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WD-40 works well on stainless and leaves a protective coat.

Dave
OK I just went out and tried it. The WD40 did absolutely nothing to remove even the slightest surface rust. What am I missing? Do you need to use steel wool or something?
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:02 AM   #16
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This subject comes up often and everyone has a favorite rust stain remover.
The good ones are acid based. The commonly used acids are oxalic, phosphoric hydrofloric and now it looks like citric has entered the fray. Any of these will work, I've tried them all. I'm going to tell you the best. Don't listen to anyone else.
(Just kidding! Please don't kill me)
The best is Whink. The active chemical is hydrofloric acid, Squirt it on a light rust stain and the stain disapears. If it doesn't disapear, wet a rag with Whink and rub it a little. It takes the stain off the SS and the gel coat next to it. This stuff works like magic. Buy it in the laundry asile of your grocery store or at a hardware store.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:04 AM   #17
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The only thing I've found WD-40 to be good for is to dry out wiring and stuff.

Hop Car it looks like those rust colored bottles are getting rusty.

Is this another miracle in a bottle discussions? Hop Car used the word in the last post. I'll bet that rust stuff works well as it's purpose designed/formulated. I'd get some but I can't remember having any rust. I probably have and just aren't so fussy.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:22 AM   #18
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This subject comes up often and everyone has a favorite rust stain remover.
The good ones are acid based. The commonly used acids are oxalic, phosphoric hydrofloric and now it looks like citric has entered the fray. Any of these will work, I've tried them all. I'm going to tell you the best. Don't listen to anyone else.
(Just kidding! Please don't kill me)
The best is Whink. The active chemical is hydrofloric acid, Squirt it on a light rust stain and the stain disapears. If it doesn't disapear, wet a rag with Whink and rub it a little. It takes the stain off the SS and the gel coat next to it. This stuff works like magic. Buy it in the laundry asile of your grocery store or at a hardware store.
A couple years ago my boat was blocked being bottom painted and I thought I would clean it up a bit. There was a brown stain from the airconditioning drain to the waterline. I tried all my faithful products without success. The marina manager handed me a bottle of Whink and said he guaranteed that would remove the stain.

Results - The stain is still there.

Whink is probably as good as anything else, but in my experience, no better.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:30 AM   #19
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A couple years ago my boat was blocked being bottom painted and I thought I would clean it up a bit. There was a brown stain from the airconditioning drain to the waterline. I tried all my faithful products without success. The marina manager handed me a bottle of Whink and said he guaranteed that would remove the stain.

Results - The stain is still there.

Whink is probably as good as anything else, but in my experience, no better.

I have found that Starbrite Hull cleaner works really well on that A/C drain stain, as well as a good cleaner for our "Pamlico Mustache" on the bow from all the tannins in our water.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:47 PM   #20
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"Pamlico Mustache"
Wait... Don't you mean a "Neuse Beard"?
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