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Old 02-24-2013, 09:19 AM   #41
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The only metal polish we have used on the boat is Meguiar's Metal Polish. Not claiming it's the best but it has never failed to remove rust stains or discoloration from the metal itself. So we've had no reason to investigate other products.

As for cleaning stains off the gelcoat of the boat we use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. But if the stain is stubborn we use a mild rubbing compound. Both products require the cleaned area to be re-waxed.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:33 AM   #42
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.......... As for cleaning stains off the gelcoat of the boat we use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. But if the stain is stubborn we use a mild rubbing compound. Both products require the cleaned area to be re-waxed.
Both of these products are abrasive and wear the gelcoat. The acid based products will remove many stains from gelcoat without wearing it away and without any harm to the gelcoat.

Best plan is to use a product intended for and labelled for use on fiberglass. Use the mildest product that will do the job.

They remove wax as well.
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:04 PM   #43
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Lilli Belle's ss stanchions are accumulating some surface rust. Is a polish/chemical the best way to remove it or a really fine grit paper? the cleats are loosing their shine as well.
Never sand SS.

This from a guy that owned a steel boat- go to the hardware store and buy some powdered oxalyic acid- the stuff you take stains out of your clothes. Mix 5:1 with water and spray on. wipe off. Top off with wax. Use the weakest mixture that will still take the rust off. This will cost you about 20% of what premixed rust removers will cost. Don't breathe in directly if you can help it.
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:44 AM   #44
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Ospho is a mild mixture of oxalyc acid and easy to find in any hardware store..

Mix the Ospho with liquid dish washing soap and use a mils Scotch Brite pad to scrub the bad spots.

Leave the mixture on the surface (the soap dries and keeps the Ospho in place) for a half hour (not critical all day is fine) and repeat scrubbing again.

If the stanchons can easily be removed it is possible to "electro polish" the surface .

The Chinese didn't bother , so simple wheel buffing polishing can be done to match the stock shine.

Most folks learn to love the no rust slightly polished surface of mild Scotch Brite.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:35 AM   #45
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On a related topic, if instead of rust, there are some defects in a stainless steel rail because it got hit with something or a clamp was put there but later removed, what are the ways to best "repair" the rail to look as close to new as possible? These defects are beyond polishing.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:07 AM   #46
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On a related topic, if instead of rust, there are some defects in a stainless steel rail because it got hit with something or a clamp was put there but later removed, what are the ways to best "repair" the rail to look as close to new as possible? These defects are beyond polishing.
Well this may be way expensive but a good welder that is really good with stainless could add metal to the damaged area and then grind and buff it to a new finish with no evidence of a repair. Or if need be cut and fit a new section right there on the boat.

We have a welder here in New Bern that has worked for Hatteras for 25+ years. He makes all of the stainless rails on the larger 70-85 foot Hatteras boats by hand. This is all done by hand with each section hand fitted. He can fit two pieces of stainless tubing together and lay a weld in that once he is done no one will be able to tell where the weld has been done.

Did I mention he is expensive.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:12 AM   #47
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Well this may be way expensive but a good welder that is really good with stainless could add metal to the damaged area and then grind and buff it to a new finish with no evidence of a repair. Or if need be cut and fit a new section right there on the boat.

We have a welder here in New Bern that has worked for Hatteras for 25+ years. He makes all of the stainless rails on the larger 70-85 foot Hatteras boats by hand. This is all done by hand with each section hand fitted. He can fit two pieces of stainless tubing together and lay a weld in that once he is done no one will be able to tell where the weld has been done.

Did I mention he is expensive.
What I'm talking about isn't that extensive and certainly not worth a great deal of expense. It's just dings and marks that polishing cannot remove. Marks like if they were in wood or plastic could be sanded and blended with the surrounding surface.
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