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Old 07-05-2016, 03:10 PM   #1
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Stripped deck screw removal

While replacing some popped bungs, I've found some screws that have the slots 'bunged' up. Can't screw them in or out. I know there is a tool, like a small hole saw, that can cut a hole around the screw but I don't know what it's called.


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Old 07-05-2016, 03:13 PM   #2
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try left handed drill bits first if trying to retain the same hole.
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Old 07-05-2016, 03:15 PM   #3
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The screws are way too small try to back out.


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Old 07-05-2016, 03:19 PM   #4
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Buy Screw Extractor, 1/4" at Woodcraft.com
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:24 PM   #5
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Sometimes a flat head screwdriver shoved under the head helps me out.
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:28 PM   #6
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different tools with different results....


what exactly are you looking to do?
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:45 PM   #7
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Hollow Screw Extractors | Broken Wood Screw Extractor
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Old 07-05-2016, 04:51 PM   #8
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If you have enough of the head exposed try to chuck the screw in the drill. Then slowly reverse it out.
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Old 07-05-2016, 06:01 PM   #9
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I use this type of screw extractor. One end is a left drill and the other end fits the hole. Square drive often will work with just the extractor.
Available at Sears, Amazon and Ebay. Probably others.
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Old 07-05-2016, 06:30 PM   #10
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I've used 'Un-Screw-Ums" Basically the same as the screw extractors mentioned above. They're simply roll pins that have been sharpened on the end with teeth that cut in reverse. They'll gnaw down the screw shank, if there is one remaining, until they grab the remains and wind it out. They don't work if there's any head left; you'll have drilled/ground/cut it off. It's devilishly hard to get the remains of the screw out of the extractor! You'll have to unchuck the extractor and drive the remains out with a suitable pin.

That blathered, I have only dealt with bronze screws, from about #6 x 1" to #10 x 2 1/2". Some were mostly copper dust, some were still metal, most were head-impaired (and thus tougher to drill the head off), and a minor percentage were complete and removable with a screwdriver.

I fear the removing of 100s of itty-bitty stainless screws would be a different project.

Pic is a 1950's Flying Dutchman. I removed all screws and replaced 'em with Mahogany dowels epoxied in. (I had previously stripped the longitudinal veneer.) There were oodles of screws, of various sizes, and of various ages due to the PO's repairs, along the centerline. There were bronze boat nails along the stem which defied removal.
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Old 07-05-2016, 06:38 PM   #11
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These SS screws set in my teak deck. The bungs are 3/8. I don't want to make the holes any bigger


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Old 07-05-2016, 07:11 PM   #12
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The screws should be a #8 1". I've replaced more than a few. Short of punching the screw into the plywood subdeck, which I do not recommend. One of extractors mentioned should work.

If you bugger the old plug 3/8" hole, don't hesitate to over drill and use a 1/2" plug. Once the plug ages, you won't see the difference.
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meridian View Post
These SS screws set in my teak deck. The bungs are 3/8. I don't want to make the holes any bigger


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Post #7

Aren't those exactly what you are looking for?
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:26 PM   #14
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Don't remove it just glue in a new bung using an epoxy glue.
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Old 07-05-2016, 07:53 PM   #15
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If you can develop the skill and patience to remove a damaged head, you should be well able to stay within the 3/8" bung dia. The problem will be in having the drill/grind method you choose staying on center of the shank of the screw...not damaging the surrounding Teak...hundreds of times.

The Teak on our boats is bonded to the fiberglass with tenacious old sealant/glue. I think you could eliminate all screws, drill/countersink, epoxy the holes in the 'glass, and rebung with an epoxied bung or even Teak-dust-thickened epoxy and be done with the problems until the Teak wears through to the sealant/glue.

Using straight epoxy as filler resulted (on our boat) with the filler standing proud of the Teak (PO's repairs).

I've saved sanding dust of several different wood species. I use the dust and mix it into epoxy for filler. Wet out the holes and use as stiff a mix of dust and epoxy as you can manage.

I filled the thousands of staple holes in the reveneered Flying Dutchman by troweling in a Mahogany dust - epoxy mix. Worked wonderfully well.

I've even filled nail holes in removed Oak strip flooring with such a mix and nailed it back down right through the filled nail holes. The wood dust crushes enough to make room for the nail and it holds fine.
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:59 PM   #16
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needle nose vise grip pliers.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:45 PM   #17
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The few I have had to fix, I have done as HDeckrotte suggests, with good results.
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Old 07-06-2016, 06:37 AM   #18
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"needle nose vise grip pliers."

YES,,,,, with a bit of love at the grinding wheel these can be slimmed down to a very modest size, and still unscrew a wood screw..

Deck Pugs may need removal in the future .

The easy way is with a steel screw driven down the center

Varnish will seal the plug and do far less damage than epoxy when its removed. .
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Old 07-06-2016, 06:53 AM   #19
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Plus...if you ever go to remove the deck...all those bungs epoxied in will take so much longer to get out.


It is because now each one has to be removed by hand versus a drill.


Sure there are a mix of either or...but when I pulled my deck, I swore constantly at the PO for epoxying all those bungs that he did over the years.
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Old 07-06-2016, 07:10 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
Plus...if you ever go to remove the deck...all those bungs epoxied in will take so much longer to get out.


It is because now each one has to be removed by hand versus a drill.


Sure there are a mix of either or...but when I pulled my deck, I swore constantly at the PO for epoxying all those bungs that he did over the years.
If there is even a next time you have to do that, just use a flat faced Forstner bit to drill the plugs out. Doesn't damage the screw head and makes fast work of the plug no matter how what it's been set in.
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