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Old 06-03-2012, 08:59 AM   #21
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Thanks everyone, very helpful!

@Datenight, WORKED! Just like you said... thank goodness. Due to the location, I couldnt get every piece of the splines off the old disentgrated impleller, but I got 3 big chunks. New Impeller in Both Engines now. NOTICEABLE Wet Exchaust discharge so I am optimistic my cooling issues will correct.

@Slowboat, I am going to try to snake the aft head. Hope it works.

I found out my heads are NOT fresh water. My Broker, the Seller, and the Surveyor all missed it. I have two thru hulls that missed Survey inspection at the Sea Cock shut offs as a result. I am going to hault out to inspect both of these thru hulls to be safe.

I appreciate all the insight.
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Old 06-03-2012, 03:27 PM   #22
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Thanks everyone, very helpful!

@Datenight, WORKED! Just like you said... thank goodness. Due to the location, I couldnt get every piece of the splines off the old disentgrated impleller, but I got 3 big chunks. New Impeller in Both Engines now. NOTICEABLE Wet Exchaust discharge so I am optimistic my cooling issues will correct.

@Slowboat, I am going to try to snake the aft head. Hope it works.

I found out my heads are NOT fresh water. My Broker, the Seller, and the Surveyor all missed it. I have two thru hulls that missed Survey inspection at the Sea Cock shut offs as a result. I am going to hault out to inspect both of these thru hulls to be safe.

I appreciate all the insight.

Are you 100% sure the heads are set up for raw water flush?Some heads have a valve to allow them to be raw water or fresh water flush.Rare but possible.I agree with checking the thru hulls.I would also make sure that the sea cocks at the thru hulls are sound and bronze or brass.Plastic ones are to easily damaged and shouldn't be used on a boat that is kept on the water.
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:17 AM   #23
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I concur with Dougcole. No recovery tanks on my 4.236 naturals. Never had a wet spot, leave them about 1/2 inch down. My temps run right at 175-180 degrees.

Before replacing the raw water pump, check for a wear plate behind the impeller. I replaced my impellers but they wouldn't pump much water. After calling Jabsco, they informed me of the wear plates and even sent me a set gratis.

They can be hard to see. I had to pry mine out with my smallest jewelers screwdriver.
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:08 PM   #24
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BH,
I had those engines for 25 yrs and put over 6300 hrs on them and never, ever ran them at that rpm. Max 2,000 most of the time at 1,800 before adding a couple inches of pitch to the wheels then ran the engines even slower.
2.5 to 1 transmissions 23x 24 wheels as I recall
The last 6 yrs or so cruised at 1,600-1,700 using 2.83 GPH total for both engines.
My experience only and YMMV
I venture a guess based on your rpm's that that is where your oil and water blew out.
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:56 PM   #25
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Charles,
Thanks for the feedback. I was concerned the RPM's were running high. She did find a better "sweet spot at 1900 RPM. Your burn rate patches my projected at 1.97 L per engine per hour. I am going to run slower RPMS and see what develops.
My Transmission is 2:1 and I have 22 inch props.

Fly,
I am convinced. The Sea Cocks opened and the salt water came in to the toilets when flushed. Secured Sea Cocks and Water didnt make it to the toilet.. both heads..
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:40 PM   #26
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BH,
About the sweet spot. The next time out as you SLOWLY advance the throttles, watch the bow rail. As soon as it starts to rise, this is the cruising speed of your hull. Period. After that point you are digging a hole, the higher the bow the lower the stern and that hole translates into fuel burned. Again period.
On my boat I posted on the throttles the various rpm settings beside which was listed the GPH. Advance the throttles as much as your wallet can stand.

CCC
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:14 AM   #27
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Thru Hulls are all replaced. Still working the Head Issue.
Going to need to rebedd the Windows. Everyone of them got some flex and leak now.
Still working the issues out but over all nothing to deter the original feeling of freedom and with each thing I overcome more confidence comes with it
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:54 AM   #28
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bow rail

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BH,
About the sweet spot. The next time out as you SLOWLY advance the throttles, watch the bow rail. As soon as it starts to rise, this is the cruising speed of your hull. Period. After that point you are digging a hole, the higher the bow the lower the stern and that hole translates into fuel burned. Again period.
On my boat I posted on the throttles the various rpm settings beside which was listed the GPH. Advance the throttles as much as your wallet can stand.

CCC
I'm not sure I have ever seen the rail rise on my boat except for going up a wave.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:47 AM   #29
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Blue… I have twin Perkin (6.354 turbo) and have always rant between 180 to 190 degrees while cruising at 1800 rpm’s. Engines have thermostats which are set to open at a specific temperature. If all the other suggestion from the board doesn’t work try a thermostat replacement which does cost a hundred buck but is an easy job. Also, I would recommend a cruising speed of 1800 to 1900 rpm’s (especially on an old girl) unless you are under distress… when it starts clicking 200 degrees you are going to start boiling the coolant out.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:56 AM   #30
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I'm not sure I have ever seen the rail rise on my boat except for going up a wave.
Agreed!
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:00 AM   #31
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G Dub,

agreed. I am finding out that these are better at the power and effeciency at lower RPM's

Pulling the Heads and Lines this weekend.
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