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Old 05-09-2014, 07:21 PM   #21
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Hard to tell from an internet photo, but LaBomba confirmed it was bronze.
And here I thought these guys had some type of energy dispersive X-ray fluorescence app on their phones.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:54 PM   #22
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The bottom of the fitting before installation was clearly cast bronze and the barbed portion was machined which made it shiny and look like brass. It is also definitely NPT and threaded in many turns. These items are not an issue in my opinion.

Markpierce, not sure about your question on cleaning the strainer. It is a new strainer and I haven't even splashed yet. I would think that being the Perko strainer is clear I will be able to see when there may be some debris in it at which point I can clean it out. With the old unit having no glass at all it was impossible to tell until the overheat buzzer went off, which it never did because I cleaned the strainer before each outing need it or not.
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:43 PM   #23
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The hose barb looks like the ones Groco is shipping now. Rough cast bronze hex and shiny barbs. The material is 85-5-5 bronze. It's good stuff.

Boatpoker pointed out something we all missed. The elbow screwed onto the seacock has tapered threads and the seacock has straight threads. That type of seacock was meant to be used with a tailpiece that had female straight thread and was sealed by a leather washer.

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Old 05-10-2014, 06:48 AM   #24
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the nipple is bronze thank goodness. It never let go but I was scared that the sharp threads would cut the inside of the hose. __________________

Most house hold plumbing is brass , not bronze as it is far easier to put threads on.

From a marine supply at Yacht Buck$ ,,I would expect the hose fitting to be bronze , IF USA made , recast scrap whatever if Chinese.
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:18 AM   #25
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[QUOTE
From a marine supply at Yacht Buck$ ,,I would expect the hose fitting to be bronze , IF USA made , recast scrap whatever if Chinese.[/QUOTE]

From a marine supply store and I checked the invoice and it says bronze and the part # on line says bronze so I think we're good.
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:55 AM   #26
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Re the brass/bronze issue I too agree it LOOKS like brass.

But I submit that the photo may be misleading. Notice the hull and how "warm" it is in color. The whole pic has an extra warm bright brass cast to it that I suspect led us astray.

One of the good things I've learned on TF is to be aware of straight threads and tapered threads and not to mix.

HopCar I love those long radiused 90s. I took out a number of sharp rad 90s and put in LR 90s.
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:08 PM   #27
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I'd be concerned with the apparent absence of a proper backing plate under that thru hull.
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:41 PM   #28
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I'd be concerned with the apparent absence of a proper backing plate under that thru hull.
Factory installed in 1981 with no issues. Possibly because the hull is nearly 2" thick at this point??
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Old 05-11-2014, 06:44 AM   #29
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I'd be concerned with the apparent absence of a proper backing plate under that thru hull.

With 2 inches of glass and what looks like 3 or 4 , 3/8 bolts securing the sea cock the requirement that a heavy fellow could stomp on the seacock and it would stay intact would seem well met.

Backing plates are more needed in lightweight paper thin hulls where the necessary bolts might rip thru the hull, with a single kick.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:26 AM   #30
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Without a doubt, the best marine "How to" site on the web. Rod Collins has dozens of exceptionally well photographed articles on how to do just about anything on your boat. I have never been able to find a single thing on this site that I disagree with other than his position on moisture meters. He has several pages on "seacocks"
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