Second opinion on repair quote?

[Brooksie]

I think you should soak the offending bolts over a period of weeks with a PB Blaster or equal, Maybe tapping them lightly each time with a small hammer if you can reach them or hammering with an impact driver if you own one. Not to remove them but to work in the penetrent.

If you run the boat during this time, apply the penetrant while the engine is cooling so it will be drawn into the threads.
After a week try a good fitting, 6 point socket or box wrench on them back and forth. If one loosens, you are on the right track. Keep at the others with the Blaster and shocking until they all loosen.
You will eventually get them all I believe. Mechanics don't have time for this so quite often break a stud or bolt unless they bring a torch.
After you have them all moving, go ahead on the original quote.

No one is ripping anyone off. You want a firm quote... allowances must be made for things to go wrong.

 

[wkearney99]

Yep, genuine penetrating oil and light taps works very well. The thin oil/solvent is helped getting in there as a result. Won't loosen everything but for moderately stuck ones it's great.

 

[Kvw613]

You are going to do all of this because someone heard a noise that you didn't notice before? Are there any other symptoms? Consider getting the heck out of there, and fixing the bracket yourself.

 

[exmaggiedrum]

Access can make an easy job hard

I had a stud break off in my BW tranny on my Ford Lehman years ago. So I didn't have a nut to heat up by any means. And it was on the opposite side of my access (of course). The stringer was in the way for getting a drill in there to drill it and put a screw-out on it. Trust me I soaked it in Kroils and MD40 and everything else for a couple of days. Used my heat gun etc.

I'm not a mechanic by trade but sometimes you don't want to pay a shop $125/hr for something that will probably take them 4-5 hrs to do. If it was only an hour or so I could deal with it. I didn't want to drop the tranny (although I did later when I replaced it to get a different gear ratio) since that would have been a really big job with the drive shaft (and getting to all the bolts on it).


And, I have seen exhaust manifolds where you can't get straight on to a stud or nut because the flange is inset from the exhaust tubing or a bend in the exhaust tubing. So you can only get a wrench in from the side and not even a socket wrench sometimes.



The reason I say all this as it is easy to imagine a "worst case" scenario taking hours to deal with. Having said that, I did work at a marine diesel shop for several years and I never saw an induction heater like the video above. The mechanics may have had one or this was too long ago. It is really a slick tool though and I would have loved to have one for some other frozen nuts over the years.

 

[Comogene]

Toocoys:


I can't relate to the labor costs quoted but I can tell you that the parts costs are overly inflated. Having just pulled two cylinder heads from a Mercruiser 454, I can offer practical information. Replacing the oil when pulling the heads is unusual, but a minor event. Rotella conventional oil sells for less than $15.00 per gallon at Wal-Mart. Coolant is $10 per gallon for prediluted. System holds approx. 4.5 gallons of 50/50 diluted coolant.


The only reason to pull the intake manifold is if you have to pull the cylinder head. Only reason to pull the cylinder head is if the exhaust manifold bolts cannot be removed. Others have described multiple ways of removing the exhaust manifold bolts without removing the cylinder head.


If the bolts are not so rusted that one cannot get a socket on it, and the bolts come out, an experienced mechanic should be able to replace the exhaust gasket on an accessible 454 in 4-6 hours



By the way, Felpro gasket for cylinder head is available around $20 and Felpro intake manifold gasket set is around the same price. You can purchase two exhaust manifold for the price quoted. If he is marking up the parts as you noted, I would not trust the mechanic to be honest when it comes to the need to replace parts or the time involved.


If the exhaust manifold is leaking, you should be able to hear and see it. Look around where the exhaust manifold mates with the cylinder head. There are four tubes that run down to the cylinder head and the manifold is held on with eight bolts. Look for white powdery residue to indicate an exhaust leak.



Start the engine and let it idle. Very carefully, listen for the "tick, tick, tick. If you can, before the engine get too hot, see if you can feel the escape of the exhaust gas.


Do a little research on your own and I think you will avoid using this mechanic in the future.


Gene

 

[toocoys]

Learning to do your own work does not require going to Dental School.....or any other school. I do all my own work and am fully self taught.

I do most of my own work. However, there are limits to what I am willing to chance. When it gets to the point where I may end up costing myself thousands, I'll hire a professional.

I'm also at the mercy of my partner when it comes to repairs. Some things I am allowed to do, others I am not, and since its both our home, I have to respect that.

 

[cabinetman1955]

Head gasket?

How did they determine it was the head gasket was a compression test done ?is water getting in the oil? Itcoolant fluid leaking out? I would get a second opinion just for price of mind to start with!