Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-08-2016, 05:58 PM   #1
Guru
 
Fletcher500's Avatar
 
City: San Diego
Vessel Model: Helmsman 4304
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 2,005
Sealing Teak?

I have been around boats since I was a young kid, but I have never had teak decks until we purchased our current boat two years ago. The teak is in the cockpit, and the swim step area so we have about 250 sq. ft.

We are currently stripping, and applying stain every six months and it is a P ITA .

I have read about sealers for teak,but it appears to be geared towards furniture. So my question, is there a way to seal teak for several years and yet still retain A nice looking deck, and some friction for the walking surface with wet feet? IE, not slippery like a varnish?
Fletcher500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 06:03 PM   #2
Guru
 
caltexflanc's Avatar
 
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
"Nothing at all" is best. Anything else compromises the performance and vastly increases maintenance purely for the sake of cosmetics. If that is what is ultimately the one and only objective, Semco is the best stuff I've seen and users seem happy with it.
__________________
George

"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
caltexflanc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 06:16 PM   #3
Guru
 
Capt.Bill11's Avatar
 
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc View Post
"Nothing at all" is best. Anything else compromises the performance and vastly increases maintenance purely for the sake of cosmetics. If that is what is ultimately the one and only objective, Semco is the best stuff I've seen and users seem happy with it.
+1 ^
Capt.Bill11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 06:29 PM   #4
Guru
 
Giggitoni's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo, California
Vessel Name: Mahalo Moi
Vessel Model: 1986 Grand Banks 42 Classic
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,093
Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc View Post
"Nothing at all" is best. Anything else compromises the performance and vastly increases maintenance purely for the sake of cosmetics. If that is what is ultimately the one and only objective, Semco is the best stuff I've seen and users seem happy with it.

^ This!

One of the great things about teak decks is they turn a lovely natural light gray color. All one has to do is give it an occasional light cross-grain scrubbing with a soft brush with salt water and perhaps a bit of Dawn soap.

Folks make a mountain out of a molehill .

Should one prefer a golden/honey color rather than light gray then try Semco or some other "preservative". However, be prepared for a reduced lifespan, constant maintenance, and problems (leaking into sub-deck, etc.) down the road. Enjoy Gray!!!
__________________
Ray
"Mahalo Moi"
1986 GB-42 Classic
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑβΕ
Giggitoni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 07:03 PM   #5
Guru
 
Fletcher500's Avatar
 
City: San Diego
Vessel Model: Helmsman 4304
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 2,005
I am using the Semco, Natural color.


It is my understanding that providing oil periodically keeps the teak happy, and helps retain the natural oils within the wood. False?
Fletcher500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 07:04 PM   #6
Guru
 
Fletcher500's Avatar
 
City: San Diego
Vessel Model: Helmsman 4304
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 2,005
[QUOTE=Giggitoni;467701]^ This!
Folks make a mountain out of a molehill .
QUOTE]

Nope, just a simple question what others are doing.
Fletcher500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 07:10 PM   #7
Guru
 
BruceK's Avatar
 
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 13,333
I`m in the "nothing/as little as possible" camp. Every time you work it more wood disappears, my decks redo with glued not screwed fresh teak cost a heap.
__________________
BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
BruceK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 07:17 PM   #8
Guru
 
Giggitoni's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo, California
Vessel Name: Mahalo Moi
Vessel Model: 1986 Grand Banks 42 Classic
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,093
[QUOTE=Fletcher500;467714]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Giggitoni View Post
^ This!
Folks make a mountain out of a molehill .
QUOTE]

Nope, just a simple question what others are doing.
No offense intended. In fact, I thought about leaving that sentence out!

Teak decks that are left natural gray but kept clean last a long time...Forty plus years are common.
__________________
Ray
"Mahalo Moi"
1986 GB-42 Classic
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑβΕ
Giggitoni is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 07:31 PM   #9
Guru
 
caltexflanc's Avatar
 
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletcher500 View Post
I am using the Semco, Natural color.


It is my understanding that providing oil periodically keeps the teak happy, and helps retain the natural oils within the wood. False?
False. And anyway, how do you measure the happiness of a piece of wood?
__________________
George

"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
caltexflanc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 07:48 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
City: San Pedro, CA
Vessel Name: Boatless
Vessel Model: Dreamer
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 159
I'm liking that SEMCO sealer...

When I sanded the deck I made the first cut with 60-grit - then went back across for finish sanding with a 120-grit - then applied the semco... something of a mistake... the surface in the areas with efficient 120-grit sanding are pretty slick.

On the fly bridge I knew better so did not finish sand with the 120-grit... no slippery problem with semco on 60-grit sanded teak.

For the cap rail I did finish sand...

Beautiful.
Attached Thumbnails
2016-08-06 17.00.51.jpg  
CarlinLA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 08:11 PM   #11
Guru
 
Fletcher500's Avatar
 
City: San Diego
Vessel Model: Helmsman 4304
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 2,005
Thanks for the feedback.


The Admiral likes the color, and I also prefer the Semco Natural, so I will continue to stain it annually.


However, instead of twice a year, I will go to once, and just keep the teak clean... and happy.


White fiberglass is easy, but the teak flooring underfoot is a nice feeling. + and - .
Fletcher500 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 08:30 PM   #12
Guru
 
78puget-trawler's Avatar
 
City: LaConner
Vessel Model: 34' CHB
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,257
I don't care for the gray look at all as to me it just looks like neglect. I know all the stuff about teak, worked with it for years, but I think it looks better with something on it to bring out its beauty. And I would have to disagree that leaving teak with nothing on it is better for sub deck leakage than having some oil on it. That makes no sense.
78puget-trawler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 08:31 PM   #13
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
I've never had a teak deck and view it as sort of a yachtie thing.

But I've had teak cap rails for over 10 years and usually varnish them. But in Alaska I used a soft (relatively) high oil varnish some of the time. But mostly I used Linseed oil and Turpentine in various percentages depending on the conditions at the time and how many coats I had already down. Typically more Linseed oil on final coats and more turpentine when getting started. Raw Linseed oil for first several coats and boiled thereafter and if drier is desired add some "Japan Drier".

This system gives a rich warm color like varnish but no gloss or build. No build in the amounts I've used. Typically I've recoated every 5 or 6 weeks (several coats - rather sloppy) actually more like two coats for recoat. The surface is a bit tacky especially just after applications but I have always been able to sit in the rail and then after standing up finding no traces of oil on my pants .. completely dry. But if you use enough oil it may be user unfriendly in this way.

Most here on the forum use CPES (or something like that) to "seal" teak. I think it's an epoxy. I think there are disadvantages but I can't remember what they are. But if you want to change your mind you can't remove cured penetrating epoxy w/o removing the wood down to the limit of penetration.
The book "Brightwork" by Rebeca Whitman is considered the bible of brightwork and they do mention epoxy but I can't remember if it's penetrating or over coating.
__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 09:13 PM   #14
Guru
 
Phil Fill's Avatar
 
City: Everett Wa
Vessel Name: Eagle
Vessel Model: Roughwater 58 pilot house
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,919
On the front decks I use SeaFin sealer sold at most marine stores. The back deck which is canvss enclosed has floor gym varnish. The exterior teak has peditt marine varnish. For weathered wear areas epoxy is applied first, followed with at least 3 coats of varnish. Varnish uv protects the epoxy.
Phil Fill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 10:46 PM   #15
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
Phil Fill,
Do you use a penetrating (CPES or whatever) or a regular top coat epoxy?
Do you ever put more epoxy on and then follow w more varnish?
__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 05:40 AM   #16
Guru
 
caltexflanc's Avatar
 
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
Quote:
Originally Posted by 78puget-trawler View Post
I don't care for the gray look at all as to me it just looks like neglect. I know all the stuff about teak, worked with it for years, but I think it looks better with something on it to bring out its beauty. And I would have to disagree that leaving teak with nothing on it is better for sub deck leakage than having some oil on it. That makes no sense.
You really think oil waterproofs the calking and bungs and planks? I don't see how either approach affects leakage myself. You place a high value on cosmetics, so the only "neglect" involved is neglecting cosmetics. To me, engaging in activities that lower the non-skid functionality and/or require removing layers of wood via sanding and chemical cleaners, is "neglect".

I think a good "tell" on functionality is serious high end sport fishing boats, the majority of which have unsealed/finished cockpit decks with oiled or sealed combings and varnished trim. Those decks get bloody and if anyone had an excuse and the money to seal them, it would be those guys. Exhibit B would be Navy boats.
__________________
George

"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
caltexflanc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 07:53 AM   #17
Guru
 
Capt.Bill11's Avatar
 
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletcher500 View Post
I am using the Semco, Natural color.


It is my understanding that providing oil periodically keeps the teak happy, and helps retain the natural oils within the wood. False?
I don't think Semco counts as "oil".
Capt.Bill11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 08:45 AM   #18
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,155
From Chris Craft...


New 2016 Runabouts, Sport Boats, Cruisers and Sport Yachts.
Teak Care

To keep the teak on your boat in tip-top condition, we would recommend the following:
- Rinse your teak decks regularly with fresh water or mild cleaners to remove stains and pollutants. Spills from suntan lotions, motor oils or oily foods should be wiped off as much as possible with a clean rag or paper towel.
- When cleaning teak decks, scrub across the grain with a soft plastic bristle brush. Scrubbing with the grain, particularly with a stiff bristled brush, will take the softwood out of the teak plants, making them ridged, and shorten the life of the deck.

- Teak contains natural oils that prevent it from rotting, even when left unfinished and exposed to the weather. These natural oils
and regular cleanings will preserve your decks far into the future. There is no need to add coats of teak sealers or oils, other than for the cosmetic appearance.

- Tip: If you wish to maintain this appearance, use a teak sealer rather than oil. Oils darken the wood, making it hotter and more slippery, negating teak's natural non-slip surface.

Even the Navy seems to have lost its way with teak....

https://blog.usni.org/2010/01/27/see...-of-teak-decks
psneeld is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 09:20 AM   #19
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
Caltex wrote;
"You really think oil waterproofs the calking and bungs and planks? I don't see how either approach affects leakage myself. You place a high value on cosmetics, so the only "neglect" involved is neglecting cosmetics. To me, engaging in activities that lower the non-skid functionality and/or require removing layers of wood via sanding and chemical cleaners, is "neglect". "

The OP talked only about sealing teak, not about sealing decks. Oil applied to a teak deck is simply a "dressing" to make it look nice and to protect the wood from salt, spilled beer, fuel ect. Oil will not seal bungs or seams .. even caulked seams. One needs to put sealer under bungs and caulking/sealer in seams.

I read some in the book "Brightwork". The author Rebecca says don't use oil. The solvents in oil break down many caulkings and most oils are fungus food. Can cause blackening of the wood in damp weather.
__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 09:50 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Sea Q's Avatar


 
City: Vancouver
Vessel Name: Sea Q
Vessel Model: Westport Mc Queen
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 225
For bright work and teak decking
Get a shed
Keeping the sunlight off your boat is a big factor.


I have tried sealer and I found them slippery when wet and on places like swim grids it will only last a year before flaking and peeling
Sea Q is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Trawler Port Captains
Port Captains are TF volunteers who can serve as local guides or assist with local arrangements and information. Search below to locate Port Captains near your destination. To learn more about this program read here: TF Port Captain Program





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012