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Old 08-09-2016, 11:06 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
Phil Fill,
Do you use a penetrating (CPES or whatever) or a regular top coat epoxy?
Do you ever put more epoxy on and then follow w more varnish?

Usually just more coats of varnish. The epoxy is mainly to fill the grain, cracks, and grooves. Varnish is not durable and or thick enough. West system epoxy first coat with teak saw dust and 404 filler. If it does crack bubble then have to strip and start over. The majority of the time the caulk has failed or the bright work has been damaged, bumped, and the teak is meets joins.

Each year I usually have to strip an areas, depending on the condition. This year the swim deck and 20 ft of starboard rub rail where caulking failed and or joint where water got under. Being we are not in cover moorage a lot is canvas enclosed and or covered with tarps. The front teak deck is cover with an thick white tarp. The south weather side has the most weathering and up keep.

Mostly multi layers of marine varnish. Petit premium 2015 varnish.

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Old 08-09-2016, 05:45 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by caltexflanc View Post
You really think oil waterproofs the calking and bungs and planks? I don't see how either approach affects leakage myself. You place a high value on cosmetics, so the only "neglect" involved is neglecting cosmetics. To me, engaging in activities that lower the non-skid functionality and/or require removing layers of wood via sanding and chemical cleaners, is "neglect".

I think a good "tell" on functionality is serious high end sport fishing boats, the majority of which have unsealed/finished cockpit decks with oiled or sealed combings and varnished trim. Those decks get bloody and if anyone had an excuse and the money to seal them, it would be those guys. Exhibit B would be Navy boats.
I didn't say anything about oil, I said something. There are so many things one can put on teak it boggles the mind. Much depends on exposure of course. Left out in the rain, I want something on that teak and yes I believe that anything on the wood is better than nothing on the wood to keep water out. Others may have their own views but mine is the right one of course, Regardless, I still don't like the gray teak look at all. The deck on my CHB had been oiled at some point and appears to have been sanded to some extent. For now I am just going to leave it alone, the boat is undercover which in the NW is important with all the rain we get. But even when it was out in the rain last spring during haulout etc, the deck only leaked around the waste tank fill. To each his own.

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Old 08-09-2016, 06:02 PM   #23
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It should be possible to maintain the teak in perfect original condition from new by keeping the boat under cover and never using it. The use of sealers and preservatives becomes unnecessary.
Or you could use the boat as a boat, and if you must, give the teak a light clean when it needs it.
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:17 PM   #24
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I'm w 78 on this one.
Unfininshed teak is like unfinished aluminum. Not awful but close.

North Western Washington State USA
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:44 PM   #25
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Speaking of teak, I was on the Queen Mary yesterday. Here is some 80 year old vintage teak.
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:19 PM   #26
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I had a marine business and sealed and coated a few teak decks for customers that wanted the varnished look. Using quality epoxy and a couple coats of a UV blocking poly, it can last 2-3 years, but is very slick when wet. Using clear sand, sparsely spread with more poly, you can non-skid, but difficult to sand to recoat the poly.
Overall, much more work than cleaning and reoiling yearly.

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