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Old 01-24-2015, 04:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKDoug View Post
I really like the suggestion in Post #14 too, it will be my back up plan if I don't feel like my Dremel bit is getting enough material out for a good seal. My foredeck has a little bit of a hump, so it isn't flat enough for a base plate. I am using washers under the corners of my pedestal base to level it and leave a good layer of 4200 under the base to avoid squeezing too much back out bolting it down.

On another note, the holes through the deck for the chain pipe and for the cable routing also have to be sealed. Since they aren't sealed (open from the bottom) like a bolt would be, is just sealing the exposed edge of the wood with something like Verathane (outdoor formula) appropriate? Moisture could drain without being trapped between layers...

Appreciate opinions :-)
Along the lines of FFs post....if the deck is crowned....

one of two ways.....

build a dike and fill with thickened epoxy that will self level....

or glue down a panel of rot resistant material with thickened epoxy to level and glue it.
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Old 01-24-2015, 04:54 PM   #22
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My pedestal is a 7" deep 316 stainless 3/16" box, mounted flat side down with an open top. The motor will be inside the box, and the chain pipe passes through inside the box to the chain locker. The pedestal height is at bow height (deck is below bow level) and will have another 1" of plate steel and plastic bolted down on it (for required windlass deck thickness).

How would you seal the plywood where the windlass wiring passes through the deck? And where the chain pipe passes through the deck? I was planning to seal the pedestal well and leave the bottom open to the chain locker. What kind of a seal on the plywood would you recommend?

These are 2 1/2" and 3" holes. The pedestal's top is already at the same height as the bow. For better visualization...
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Old 01-24-2015, 11:22 PM   #23
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Route it out and fill it I guess then. I sure am having to learn a lot of new things since having moved up in boats! It sounds like epoxy is the standard answer to everything :-)
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:58 AM   #24
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Me.....the 4 bolt holes would be oversized and filled and redrilled.

The chain would go down though a bronze or stainless through hull that had the ply coring taken back a 1/2 inch or so and filled with thickened epoxy.

The wiring is tough because I'm not sure what I have to work with there...but possibly a piece of flexible tubing or pvc to above deck level, epoxy holed like the bolts or through hull pull the wires full then goop it watertight.
But hard to say because of several puzzle pieces I am not sure of.

It is less about water getting in the locker as the chain brings it in anyhow....it is about the deck coring and keeping it dry.
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:21 AM   #25
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I have had luck with using brass pipe epoxied in place to take the compression loads.

A bit of time and a file will do , although the bolts to the item must be loosley installed when the fitting is glued in to save the alignment.

Car wax makes a parting agent , if the mounting bolts are removed before the epoxy gets rock hard.

A sailboat cored deck mounted winch is an example of high load.
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