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Old 09-17-2018, 08:05 AM   #1
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Seal inner port hole ring with toilet bowl wax ring?

I don't need any adhesive quality. And it is not going to have much movement being screwed down.
What I need is something soft that will repel water, keep water out from where it meets inner hull varnished wood. Lots of caulks actually dry and then stick, and I dont want that. Foam rubber is too stiff to compress.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:19 AM   #2
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Butyl tape. Google compass marine- theirs is great
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:22 AM   #3
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Butyl tape. Google compass marine- theirs is great
I know it is good but it is too expensive I think for this small usage. Also I think it is somewhat sticky or adhesive.

I have some left over remnant of black butyl caulk on a roll, I suppose could use, but it is sticky stuff. That stuff, you could screw it down with that caulk, remove the screws and it would be stuck on tight. I used it to to bed a window on the boat. I would never use it again for a window.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:37 AM   #4
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Buryl tape works geat on my windows. I have removed a couple a couple of times without damaging paint or gel coat.

It might peel spart teak veneer though.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:48 AM   #5
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How about a thin foam like used for shipping or sill seal in building supply co. Its only about 1/8 - 3/16 thk and us closed cell. Shpuld be able to cut a one pc gasket from it.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:50 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by sdowney717 View Post
I don't need any adhesive quality. And it is not going to have much movement being screwed down.
What I need is something soft that will repel water, keep water out from where it meets inner hull varnished wood. Lots of caulks actually dry and then stick, and I dont want that. Foam rubber is too stiff to compress.
Trying to seal water out using the inner ring makes it sound as if you have water leaking in from the outside? If that is the case you are asking for rot issues by not sealing the leak at the source. If I misunderstood your dilemma my apologies.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:08 AM   #7
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Trying to seal water out using the inner ring makes it sound as if you have water leaking in from the outside? If that is the case you are asking for rot issues by not sealing the leak at the source. If I misunderstood your dilemma my apologies.
It is a new install, I plan to seal inner and outer ring, but inner does not need an adhesive caulk like the outer part. Being up against wood, don't want an adhesive, just keep water from getting between hull wood and port parts. I have some nylon fibers I got from washing an old rope in the washing machine I can mix into the wax to make it stiffer. That turned an old rope into mushy fine soft fibers. Old heavily used nylon ropes, the small fibers are actually breaking inside the rope and you don't really see them. The washing machine floats thr rope apart and flushes them out. It was a mistake to wash an old rope as it ruined several feet on the end.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:10 AM   #8
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Toilet ring wax is very effective. Very ugly. I consider it a temporary fix but it will work for years. It is also a pain to remove. Did I mention how ugly it looks!

It’s a great fix for a leaky port when there is no time to pull it and reseal it.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:18 AM   #9
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Not going to see any wax, the wax is going behind the port, and you wipe off any excess.
You basically take some wax off the ring and use it for whatever. I will mix in some fibers to stiffen it.

My only interest in using this, its cheap, it does not adhesive to anything, it repels water, it won't dissolve when wet, can be easily taken apart, has no negatives that I can think of offhand. The wood is finished and epoxy coated, so the wax wont be soaking into any wood, AFAIK.

I have never used any such wax yet on the boat, but I have replaced wax toilet bowl rings.

I have used many different caulks and most are adhesive, I suppose another option is silicone, but I hate it.

I even thought maybe rubber cement.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:27 AM   #10
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So why are you informing us of your plan, why not just go ahead and do it?
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:34 AM   #11
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So why are you informing us of your plan, why not just go ahead and do it?
I am curious as to what people think, or if they have used that for anything like sealing something.

I want something cheap, soft, and not adhesive like glue. I also thought to use some black RV permatex gasket maker. Would be less adhesive than a caulk, but it still can stick pretty hard things together.

I don't see the need to go super seal, as in glue on this thing. Port hole is on the cabinside away from the water. Mostly all it will get wet from is rain. It is going in the head, there is not an opening port window in the head.

My mirror in the head desilvered, and I had this brass porthole of about 12 inch width. So I took it to a glass shop and they put in a mirror, So it will serve as a mirror and also can be opened, there is a screen to keep out bugs.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:48 AM   #12
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I think that you are on the right path. Wax of some sort sounds like a good material to use. You don’t want it sticking to the wood / brightwork. Toilet bowl wax sounds like it will fit the need.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:59 AM   #13
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Butyl tape won't stick like wax will. Also, when wax gets up around the 90+ degree mark, it can sag and run. It also gets very brittle in cold weather. It will crack and allow water/air in. Butyl tape will roll off with just a nitrile glove on and using the fingers. Any residue can be removed with simple 3M grease and wax remover and usually denatured alcohol. Both can be bought locally for not much money.
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:00 AM   #14
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I was transporting a boat from LA to Seattle. The forward port had a massive leak. I took toilet ring wax and applied it around the outer edge of the port. It completely stopped the leak and this was a stormy trip. What I can't answer is how long it will last.
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:10 AM   #15
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Melting point is 150 to 160 *F

https://www.oatey.com/ASSETS/DOCUMEN...x_Wax_Ring.pdf

I also plan to mix in some of those nylon fibers from that rope. They are quite fine and fluffy. that will give it some more body. Cotton ball fibers could also be a good fiber to use.
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:14 AM   #16
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Give plumbers putty a thought?

Not sure about it's chemical composition and if it would stain wood, IF it somehow got to it....
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:31 AM   #17
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What are your expectation about removing the caulking? I mean even with wax I guess that if you remove it you will need to do some good cleanup of the woodwork around to be able to remove the wax, likewise you would do with something like sikaflex 291. If used right it should not give you much trouble but better finish and durability.
Personally I would go with what is the best more than what is the easiest but that is just me.

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Old 09-17-2018, 03:18 PM   #18
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Give plumbers putty a thought?

Not sure about it's chemical composition and if it would stain wood, IF it somehow got to it....
Might work ok.
I have seen decades old plumbers putty hard as a rock.
It certainly does seal out water, people use it in sinks.
The wax is cheaper and definitely does not dry out significantly.

https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-31166-P...J4C662X477NY8A
https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Plumb-01...terproof+putty
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Old 09-18-2018, 06:55 AM   #19
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DOLFINITE

Anything bedded will need re bedding ,,,,eventually.The task is fast and easy eoth the right bedding compound.

Sure its expensive , but unlike tube bedding it will go a decade in the can and still be useable.

Dolfinite Bedding Compound | For Waterproof Seals‎

Adwww.jamestowndistributors.com/Bedding/Compound‎

Pettit | Dolfinite Bedding Compound

www.pettitpaint.com/products/varnish-wood.../seams.../dolfinite-bedding-compound/
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:50 PM   #20
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Today I cut the hole using a jig saw. Sanded it with a curved block till smooth and got the exact same size as the port. That mahogany board they built the hull side of back in 1970 is one solid piece, a very wide log!

I then epoxied the mahogany edge and where the port inner ring sits.
Then I coated with some Zinsser bulls eye primer. About the best primer I have found so far.

I test fit the porthole mirror and it looks good. The backside of the mirror is protected with a plate of aluminum bolted on. And it is sealed with some rubber cement to keep out water.

It can be held open with a bit of chrome chain I had, the link slips into the lock down arm of the port window. Other end has an eye hook and just happens to fit in the hole vacated by the DC light I had to relocate farther over so the port window could open up all the way.

The outer ring I fit but need to get some rubber cement to glue the screen onto the ring before I screw it onto the wood.

I may just use rubber cement, and of course test it with a water hose.
The inner ring has a wide inner ridge as a tight fit to the wood. Farther back is concave area which could fit some foam rubber gasket, but I don't think it is needed.

Those bulbs I just put in are LED, three colors of white. You select which color by rabidly turning it on and off. They are very bright, supposed to be equivalent to 40 watts. I burned my arm on the incandescent globes when working on this project, so they are history.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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