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Old 09-02-2014, 05:29 PM   #21
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Everything you ever wanted to know about seacocks and seacock maintenance but where afraid to ask.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/t..._cone_seacocks
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:32 PM   #22
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Greetings,
Mr. 11. Agree 100% (post #20) Servicing Tapered Cone Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com
That is exactly my point. A properly serviced seacock (SC) need not be loosened to function. When we took possession of our current vessel there was a 1' piece of pipe beside the main engine SC that HAD to be used to operate the valve. There was a stringer within 3" of the SC and as a result the plug could not be removed for proper servicing/lapping. A 3" hole saw solved THAT situation.
Mr. CP. Dayum....3 minutes late...
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:42 PM   #23
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Mr. CP. Dayum....3 minutes late...

It happens RT. Normally I'm the one late
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:00 AM   #24
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Angus

You have the old Groco rubber plug type seacock. They were a top notch unit.
The Tee handle must be loosened a tad to rotate the plug. A bit of water will come in - normal - when the Tee is loosened and the plug turned. Once retightened the weep stops.

Unfortunately they are no longer available. I've looked from time to time when in a used marine goods store and have never seen any that I can use.





The taper type seacocks that started the thread, in addition to being adjusted properly, the need for grease now, they may also need to be lapped lightly are also top notch units.

Use of a light Clover compound, lapping, will lightly grind the two tapers and make for a good fit.

The compound must be thoroughly washed off with solvent and rags. Any grit remaining will continue to grind eventually damaging the taper. Not hard, just need some attention to details.

And yes, they should be exercised periodically and greaed to be sure they don;t freeze.
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:04 AM   #25
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The rest of the world changed to ball valves for a reason. Taper plug valves are typically used in slurry service, and not much else.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:49 AM   #26
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>The rest of the world changed to ball valves for a reason.<

Yes COST, you will find 60 -80 year old tapered plug sea cocks that are servicable.

The SS ball stuff is simply discarded, as it should be,

Items that can not be serviced do not belong in a boat that is not also dispposable.
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:18 AM   #27
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Angus

You have the old Groco rubber plug type seacock. They were a top notch unit.
The Tee handle must be loosened a tad to rotate the plug. A bit of water will come in - normal - when the Tee is loosened and the plug turned. Once retightened the weep stops.

Unfortunately they are no longer available. I've looked from time to time when in a used marine goods store and have never seen any that I can use.
C lectric, thanks for ID-ing the Grocos. A simple search found a great discussion (featuring our own HopCar) on what it takes to replace these aging models. Groco SV Seacock Testing Prior to Installation - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

Still thinking about replacing them since Groco stopped making parts for them, including the rubber wear parts, in the 1990s. Too bad because they feel like they were built like tanks.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:35 AM   #28
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>The rest of the world changed to ball valves for a reason.<

Yes COST, you will find 60 -80 year old tapered plug sea cocks that are servicable.

The SS ball stuff is simply discarded, as it should be,

Items that can not be serviced do not belong in a boat that is not also dispposable.
+1 I have seen marine-rated ball valves/seacocks fail and leak too. In one case, the shaft broke off in the ball which allowed the handle to turn normally, but did not rotate the ball. In my case, I 'closed' the seacock and pulled off a 1" hose only to have the full force of water from that wide-open seacock hit me right in the face. I was able to get the hose back on, but changed it out next yard period. If that had been a taper plug seacock, the handle and shaft could not have failed like it did without warning. And, if it had stuck open, it could have likely been serviced in place without having to be removed from the hull. Just exercise and lube them occasionally and they will last a long time. BTW, I had been 'exercising' that ball-type seacock regularly, but obviously, only the handle was moving, not the ball!

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Old 09-03-2014, 11:06 AM   #29
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............Items that can not be serviced do not belong in a boat that is not also dispposable.
That's not a good blanket statement. Electronics is a good example. Although they may be serviceable, at some point replacement is the better option providing new and improved features.

Other items, like small bilge pumps aren't worth the trouble of trying to find parts and spending time repairing them when replacement is cheap and simple and guarantees a working product.

And of course, no matter how serviceable a product is, there may come a time when the manufacturer no longer supplies parts or goes out of business.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:20 AM   #30
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Angus99, I just typed up a long discourse on the Groco seacock but I see it's already been covered. Never mind.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:47 AM   #31
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This is why I took the gamble and did the Groco flange with the generic screw on ball valve.

The flange should last on the boat for longer than me and probably the boat...the ball valve is relatively inexpensive and no need to haul to replace it. In a pinch...any correct sized ball valve, even a gate valve could be used till the proper replacement is obtained.

I say gamble because it all sounds good in the simple...let's see how King Neptune sings his tune over the long haul.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:24 PM   #32
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PS, I think that's a perfectly good plan. I would have sprung for a Groco or Apollo ball valve because I know they last a long time but your plan will work as well.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:30 PM   #33
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Quote:
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The rest of the world changed to ball valves for a reason. Taper plug valves are typically used in slurry service, and not much else.


Yes, you are right.

However, I have seen more than just a few SS ball [316] valves that were showing signs of trouble. I have also had a few where the ball slot or handle drive tang failed even in supposedly good stuff. They , the SS, are not as foolproof or corrosion resistant as many believe, especially in seawater service.

Overall, the ball valves are a better valve but those old seacocks were darn good units.

However, all seacocks need to be inspected for signs of corrosion or operation problems periodically no matter what they are made of.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:33 PM   #34
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Still thinking about replacing them since Groco stopped making parts for them, including the rubber wear parts, in the 1990s. Too bad because they feel like they were built like tanks.

IF the T handle is loosened before the Groco is turned there is almost no wear on the rubber, so no need for replacement parts.

The Groco is best for almost never operated line like a head discharge..

I would much prefer a tapered valve if securing the engine intake was the drill after engine use.
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