Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-04-2013, 06:26 PM   #21
Guru
 
Brooksie's Avatar
 
City: Cape Cod, MA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Island Seeker
Vessel Model: Willard 36 Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 954
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Kangeroo View Post
Responses from Australia, Austria, USA, Canada, the internet never ceases to amaze me. Thanks for the great links and advice guys.

I took a look at the product Spotless Stainless that DODO mentioned and although expensive I was quite impressed. They made one statement in their Faq section however that seems to be contradictory. QUOTE: If your stainless does not have enough Chromium to provide a protective oxide layer rust may appear quicker. In this case you may need to coat your Stainless after removing the rust and surface iron with Spotless Stainless Rust Remover.

This seems to suggest that if you have an inferior grade of stainless the key to controlling rust is to "prevent" oxygen from reaching it ie: the exact opposite treatment given to a higher grade stainless. Incidentally, this is what I have been doing but it is too early to tell if I'm helping or exacerbating the problem.

BROOKSIE, sounds like advice based on painful experience. As far as the rub rail and strakes are concerned, I am going to replace all the screws but I'm afraid it's great advice a little to late. A few have broke off already!

My next question will be how in hell to remove broken screws from fiberglass.
Heat each screw with a pencil torch or electric soldering iron (not a gun too slow) That will melt the resin and the screw will back right out.
__________________
Advertisement

Brooksie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2013, 07:47 PM   #22
Guru
 
sbu22's Avatar
 
City: New Orleans
Country: US
Vessel Name: Panache
Vessel Model: Viking 43 Double Cabin '76
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 680
I, too, have just started using Spotless Stainless. It does a fine, low elbowgrease job. We'll see how long it lasts.
__________________

sbu22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 06:27 AM   #23
FF
Guru
 
FF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,531
I think I'd be thinking about replacing those hundereds of rail screws with good 318 screws b/4 they are too far gone and start breaking off when you try to remove them.

Bronze wont cost much more and is usually good for decades , not months.
FF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 07:24 AM   #24
Scraping Paint
 
City: Fort Lauderdale
Vessel Model: CHB 48 Zodiac YL 4.2
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by AusCan View Post
Alexander Smith Cochran's schooner yacht Sea Call, built in 1915 in Neponset, Mass.

Interesting. But there is always "the rest of the story."

Chemical & Metallurgical Engineering - Google Books
RickB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 07:34 AM   #25
Scraping Paint
 
City: Fort Lauderdale
Vessel Model: CHB 48 Zodiac YL 4.2
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Kangeroo View Post
If your stainless does not have enough Chromium to provide a protective oxide layer rust may appear quicker. In this case you may need to coat your Stainless after removing the rust and surface iron with Spotless Stainless Rust Remover.

This seems to suggest that if you have an inferior grade of stainless the key to controlling rust is to "prevent" oxygen from reaching it ie: the exact opposite treatment given to a higher grade stainless.
No, they are saying to coat the rusty spot with the magic sauce that dissolves and removes the Fe that causes the rust. Doing so allows a new layer of Cr2O3 to form and reduce the chance of further rusting. It "passivates" the surface.
RickB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 02:31 PM   #26
Guru
 
skipperdude's Avatar
 
City: Whittier AK
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Apache II
Vessel Model: 1974 Donald Jones
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,147
My next question will be how in hell to remove broken screws from fiberglass.[/QUOTE]

Depends on where they are. I just use a punch and punch them Through.

You may have to do a little repair. like using an allen wrench on a drill and sort of warble out the core material. Tape the back of the hole and pour some catalyzed epoxy into the hole then re drill.
It forms a little disc just under the surface that acts as a backing plate so the repair is actually better than original

SD
__________________
If you can't repair it maybe it shouldn't be on the boat
skipperdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 03:58 PM   #27
TF Site Team
 
Larry M's Avatar
 
City: JAX, FL
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Hobo
Vessel Model: Krogen 42-120
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,745
Quote:
...My next question will be how in hell to remove broken screws from fiberglass.
You could try a screw extractor. If your srews are a #6, 8 or 10, the 5/16" extractor is the size you want so the hole isn't to big.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2354
Larry M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2013, 10:28 AM   #28
Guru
 
sbu22's Avatar
 
City: New Orleans
Country: US
Vessel Name: Panache
Vessel Model: Viking 43 Double Cabin '76
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 680
I've had pretty good luck with powered impact screwdrivers for removing difficult screws.
__________________

sbu22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:41 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012